A350 3D Printing Bed Calibration Guide

Like many others here, I couldn’t immediately print anything large on my A350. After spending a weekend or two reading and experimenting with the work @Tone has done, I was finally able to calibrate my Snapmaker to use the entire bed.

Since my dad also got an A350 and is new to 3D printing, I put together a beginner’s guide on fixing all of the bed-related problems I ended up having so I figured I’d share it here too. I hope this guide proves useful! I appreciate people chipping in on other forum threads I’ve been in, everyone here is super helpful :slight_smile:

Feel free to suggest improvements. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1pgS8wokEOLUAfPcwFLj6HwCRgdo4pLDsS59WxE6pAi4/edit?usp=sharing

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This is amazing. I’ve been spending the week wasting filament with my first large print and it’s taken away sleep and money from me!

I’ll definitely try your guide out. I read those other threads and was planning to undergo the dial indicator work but it looks so daunting.

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Thanks! Unfortunately the whole process is still a pain, but I tried to remove a lot of the research/unknowns and boil it down to an easily repeatable workflow.

Dear Jamreacho,
Thank you for writing this up. My bed has been mostly ok for larger prints, but I have had issues with crumbling parts, and first layer PLA being near impossible to remove.
I will work through your tutorial with my two boys this week and give any appropriate feedback.

It may be too advanced for your document or could be a version 2, but I am looking at custom Gcode “tips & tricks” for using Simplify3D and learning about Linear Advance calibration to get a custom K-Value for more uniform corners and transitions.

Thank you so much for your efforts and sharing with the community,
-Monterey

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So you know if your prints are really brittle your probably underextruding. And if your having a hard time removing the first layer, then your printing to close to the bed (raise your z offset)

Thank you Adam,
I will raise my z off set and look for the extrusion multiplier. On my matter control and Robo R1it is right next to the speed and jog adjustments.
-Monterey

Hey All,

I’ve been doing a lot of testing as well, and things are looking up. I’ll post something more in depth once I’m done testing and have the time to type it all out, but several of the settings that the Snapmaker team is using are so far off that I’m surprised anything prints at all. My latest find is that the retraction settings are setup for a Bowden extruder setup, not a direct drive extruder. Thus the 6.5mm retraction is causing a significant amount of issues.

I am currently running a second test, but the retraction should be <= 0.4mm at 60mm/sec. The test that is currently running will dial that in to what is perfect for my machine, but this is what causes filament loops, gaps, and what appears to be under extrusion. BTW, if you’re having layer adhesions issues, and are using the Snapmaker Filament, please try something else. Don’t waste your time trying to get the Snapmaker Filament to work, unless you know for a fact that you have the eSun version, and that it is good.

Best,
Will

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Interesting, I’m still experiencing fairly subpart prints due to banding, poor overhang angles, and uneven filament extrusion. I’d be very interested in the results of your experiments if you’re willing to post them here! I should try doing some myself soon.

It def seems like Snapmaker made some odd decisions with their 2.0 models, esp relating to bed heating during calibration which I talk about in my guide. It’s been a bit frustrating needing to put in the amount of work I’ve had to, but I gotta say it’s also taught be a lot about 3D printing at least.

Great document @Jameracho!

May I be so bold as to suggest that you enable commenting, so people can make suggestions to improve and update the document over time?

Onno

Done! Good suggestion

This is probably due to poor cooling, its a known issue with a mod that corrected it. Look for a thread using search “fan mod” and you will find a good mod to fix your cooling so you have less issues with warping, overhangs and bridges.