Hello, I have been using SLA printer for almost 6 years and just decided to get a snap maker to expand my workflow. I have worked in R&D for 10 years now and 3D-printing has been a godsend. I got my a350 and enclosure up and running last week and have had some great prints right off the bat did some feed calibration and temperature tinkering.
Then all the sudden I could not get anything to stick to the build plate I had some occasional success when I would crank the Z calibration EXTREMELY tight on the calibration card. I knew this was not the proper way to get results, so I continued tinkering. I had good layer, dimensional accuracy, and no stringing in all my materials. but I could only get it to stick by clamping that card tightly in between the nozzle and the build platform. tried different nozzle and hot end with no success.
Eventually I noticed that the firmware was outdated had to update with a flash drive because apparently it was several versions old. and like magic my next print had good adhesion with a normal 5x5 calibration with light resistance on the card. I would think that the firmware wouldn’t have this effect but maybe I messed something up while calibrating the feed or miss-typed and altered something I wasn’t supposed to, and the firmware corrected this.
Anyways this forum has been a lot of help so far and I figured I would see what others had to think about this strange Z-axis/adhesion issue.
I have also just received my A350 and had similar issues - I am new to the 3D print world - despite a firmware update they persisted - I experimented with bed and nozzle temperatures ultimately settled on a bed temp of 75 for initial layer and tip of 208 - I also changes the skirt to 2 passes - this has worked so far on my prints
Because I had so many good prints before I was pretty sure it was something I did. I think adding skirts, upping the E and some Temps definitely helped,but despite calibrating before every print, it would always starts a mm or so above the platform.
Its possible that you changed some values in the firmware such as e steps, accelerations, junction deviation etc. that made you have problems with your prints. Then when you updated the firmware it reverted all your changes back to default (Firmware update will always revert the settings stored on the machine back to default such as M92 values).
Did your machine print well after the firmware update without you changing the firmware stored values?
After the update I started a print and it seemed to be operating like it did before when I was having a good prints I did up the E from 212.12 to 242.22 because I had some very slight under extrusion in some layers.
So you changed E again after the update? things like E steps, linear advance and accelerations are reset to default when updating firmware so if you made those changes before updating, they would be reset.
Yes after the update I adjusted the E steps again and started the print I figured more flow could only help. Initiallt I was about 10 mm short when I ran g1 e100 f300. It’s good to know that factor was producing okay results and I can always go back by reinstalling the firmware. I should have grabbed the setting from the printer when it wasn’t cooperating, so I could see what’s changed, But frustration got the better of me
Calibrate linear advance: Teaching Tech 3D Printer Calibration, or skip calibration and just set to 0.07, which is the number many people who have done that calibration have come up with.
M900 K0.07 M500
That can be run over wifi and will work fine, you won’t see anything except OK. It’s case sensitive.
I thanks I calibrated Evalue and K value and the next print came out perfect then the print after that not so much I will try retraction next. I’m using the abs from hatchbox and the temp seems to be pretty good melting fine and very little stringing. Although I did notice that the nozzle had a lot of material stuck to it after the first print.
Coming from SLA printing Fdm is definitely allot more fun to trouble shoot. Not nearly as messy
