For any newbes (me included) out there if you use the calibration card the way you do on a cold bed it will be way too close , I was having issues with the bottom layer , leaving lines on returns , uneven extrusion, leaving little globs, and the initial extrusion outline (don’t know the term for it) doesn’t look pretty like usual. also when the nozzle passes fast across infill it would sound like a card in the spokes sometimes.
when that card is hot the push bend , pull slight drag test is way too tight , I go down till it touches then 0.5’s until when you pull it out you feel just a slight thunk.
you guys may all know this but I thought I would mention it.
hey sorry guys , i was a little overzealous ,I should have said this is what worked for me , I have a new A350T the hot auto bed level works good for me with that littlle bit of adjustment .Mine never gouged the bed just made an indelible dark line like a permanent marker. I don’t have the knowledge or the need yet to level the bed as perfectly as i have seen the people on this forum have a need to do. I was just excited to impart some knowledge that helped me keep printing and learning , in my line of work I had to ask a lot of newbe questions to very experience transmission techs and very often there diagnosis failed because a very early step was assumed or over looked. I saw that final step in the calibration process as critical to the offset calibration to all the other machine made measurements. and since a human was involved in that. the way it was done seemed very ambiguous to me as to the proper procedure for a critical measurement. I feel silly for being so excited to add something to the group that might help.
I hope i didn’t offend anyone in sounding like I knew something that other people with much more experience might have missed.
Yup you are right in many ways, tech savvy people who have vast amounts of knowledge in their field often forget the simplest of things which us, the laymen often find a hurdle or spot things which they overlooked.
As for the calibration, I followed the initial instructions when setting up my A350ENT and never gave it a thought about having the hotbed warm. That may explain why the first try using the smaller calibration points failed. Also I did bring the head down a bit too much and put a small puncture from the nozzle in the printing plate which has not had any impact, thankfully. Having failed the first time I then did the full bed calibration test which did the trick and so far I have not had to do a recalibration although I have read others do this about every few months to ensure prints are kept their best.
The only problem I have at present is the missus saying “you’ll wear out the printer if you keep doing things. Give it a rest”. I reply “yes dear (LOL) later eh!” So much out there to print
I was trying to think of a quick test for my printer to help me understand what is going on .
I can’t write g-code so I did a quick full bed thin slab design , sliced it up with 4 brim lines copy pasted the brim code into another smaller slice (didn’t want to delete thousands of line of g-code)
deleted the main print code , now i can print just a full outside edge (almost about 30mm in) to test adhesion and extrusion and bed deflection side to side .
My printer is in a unheated garage , so i heat my cabinet (makes bed heating faster ) the plate stays about 30c ) I turn off the heater during prints .
first run i did (bed temp 75 ) I had the front door open ,bad adhesion at the front . i guess the front can cool rapidly with the door open . closed the door ran again good adhesion. next it showed moisture in my filiment . changed out my filiment to white, ran again it showed clearly the movement variations in my Y Linears (they are sending me new ones) but X runs were perfect . the white showed uniform opacity , no globbing , no width or thickness variations (thickness extrapolating from opacity) The Y runs had thick and thin spots on some lines not others , well it help me to understand what might be going on . Im going to try to figure out how to spiral the whole bed (not sure how yet.
it gave me info that i could understand with out too long a print I know it just basic info, but for me it give me a place to start.
