Curious about the carpet adhesive, gonna have a look for some next time I’m at the hardware store. There is exacty zero hairspray in the house so I’d have to buy something regardless. And nope, there’s no glue sticks in the house either - what sort of people have this stuff just lying around 
I just got back into 3D printing (from ~8 years away) and had 5 good prints (each side) with the A350. Then I started having adhesion issues (and plastic getting up into the module). From the first print, I have had to use the manual height to get it to work. I spent a few hours messing with it and finally went old school. I got a sheet of 180 grit sandpaper and lightly burnished the entire surface. Something that everybody ensured me that I didn’t have to do on new 3D printers. All of my adhesion problems magically disappeared. Note; you are not really sanding it down, you are only roughing up the surface (I know that sounds weird). All of the shiny should be gone and you should be left with a matte surface (with a whole bunch of tiny scratch marks preferably in circular patterns). If you start getting rid of the white lines, you are pressing too hard. Then I wipe it down with an alcohol pad (I clean it before every print).
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I also suddenly had adhesion problems with PLA. I tried a lot of different temperature settings and ofsets, but nothing really helped.
e-step calibration was finally the solution. I had a mismatch of 12%.
Is it possible that the error has crept in via a firmware update?
I never had adhesion problems at the beginning.
yeah calibrating the e-steps is a must with the Snapmaker
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The print sheets seem to have a tendency to change performance after a few uses, at least seemingly for many users.
Takes time to get it mastered beyond the lucky first few it seems.
I always fall back on my friend Magigoo when i dont’w ant to change a failure, it helps release parts too and an application lasts a long time and can be touched up. bottle lasts very long time 
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I can agree with moosejuice at first I had no problems and even with a better filament sometimes the adhesion is still no good. what helped me besides maggigoo or glue stick is to print the first layer at the upper range of the temperature
Yep, thats a good tactic as well. Higher bed temperature on initial layers also can help
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I think I’ve found the answer to this now. Here’s a link to my recipe:
same here…
I had lots of good prints with no adhesion problems, all of a sudden it appears, that 90% of my prints end up with warping → nozzle hitting the model and then printing “spaghetti” in the air or - even worse - getting the filament into the printhead, I have the 3rd print module already because of this… thanks to the fast and good snapmaker support it was exchanged for free.
I tried different temperatures (bed and nozzle), played with Z offset, tried PLA, PLA+, PETG… Snapmaker brand, sunlu, eryone, no matter what, I can’t get a print with proper bed adhesion. I even ordered a new print sheet - still no success…
I don’t want to use any glue or hair spray - knowing that it worked before without. I never tried blue tape so far… but still… it worked before … Don’t know what I am doing wrong
Now that the level bug is solved it should be possible to get decent first layer. Have you tried printing the first layer slower and with hotter bed/nozzle temp?
I don’t know, when the level bug exactly was solved, but I think I am on the latest FW.
As I stated, I tried different temperatures - nozzle 190 to 225°C (first layer); bed 50 to 80°C (and different combinations e.g. 200/80; 200/70; 210/80 …)
I also tried to print the first layer slower (forgot to mention this in my post).
Sometimes the first layer sticks well (2 out of 10 prints) but then at a height of 1 or 1,5cm of the model the nozzle crashes into the print and destroys it (unfortunately this happened always when I was not around - overnight prints etc.) - I think the model starts warping then, but I am not sure about it
Is it possible to have cold spots on the heated bed? Is there away to be able to test that?
Infrared imaging camera.
FLIR sells a small IR camera add-on for cell phones for IIRC around $400 MSRP, with models both for Android and Apple phones. This is a technology now available to anybody that can afford a SM.
good point! Sometimes, I have the feeling, the adhesion is a little better right in the center of the heated bed
This is probably because it’s the last/actual place the z is measured.
Have you cleaned your bed? Dish soap and water and then IPA.
Worn nozzle?
-S
I always clean with isopropanol (99% alcohol), after every print - nozzle is brand new (I regularely exchange them, clean them in ethyl acetate and throw away when worn) and I level manually with heated bed at 70°C.
btw, with IPA you mean isopropyl alcohol? I always read this as “indian pale ale” 
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I use hairspray. Have never had an issue with a print coming loose. It cleans with hot tap water or alcohol. I use a very light coat, let it dry, then put the plate on the machine. I do the same thing on glass. PLA, PETG, Nylon. It doesn’t matter. Pig collagen is the BEST!
I found out that my problem was not the bed but the filament. Bought a Sunlu Filament dryer and never had adhesion problems again when I dried the filament for 6h beforehand, no matter what brand I used. I even had some trouble now and then to get my model off the sticker. So for all of those who have problems - maybe this works for you as well. The dryer is something like 50€, there are other methods like in your oven - there are lots of videos and instructions around.
This… and a proper bed leveling… I will never level automatically again… 
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