I don’t know if this helps anyone, but the filament I am using asks that if there is a cooling fan, to shut it off. When I do this, I don’t have problems.
M106 P0 S0
That command has made a huge difference for me
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Whats that sounds interesting
I have a white one but without acids
I dont know if it has to be like that but autoleveling is pretty far away from the bed when the nozzle is on the calibration points.
My prints where very good at the beginning but got worse
I had many issues initially; tried glue stick and blue tape. I have found that heating bed to 90 and keeping it there until initial layer is about 1.2-2mm along with a high nozzle temp (220 degrees) works great. I’ve had no issue with Snapmaker and Hatchbox filament on my last 4-5 jobs. Snapmaker DOES have filament issues; my red filament is useless and black is so-so.
After you have confirmed the print is sticking fine, you can reduce bed temp to 60 and nozzle down to 210 (or maybe lower depending upon filament). Hope this helps.
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I did shim my A350 bed to get it level within less 0.1mm across and use Magig 3D printing adhesive (sold by Atomic Filament).
For PLA I set my first layer temp to 70 deg C which drops down to 50 deg C and nozzle temp between 205 C (for Snapmaker PLA) and 215 C for Atomic Filament PLA with great adhesion…
Also I am slowing things down for the first layer… first layer speed 10mm/s with initial layer height at 0.16mm.
Working my courage up to try PETG next (and than ABS and than TPU)…
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Not quite sure what you’re saying here. The nozzle is not supposed to be touching the bed during auto-leveling. The sensor should be 1mm (credit card thickness) higher than the nozzle.
When it does the auto-leveling it should detect the relative height of the bed at each point using the sensor. Then the final step when you use the card and lower the nozzle to touching the card, that’s how it’s actually supposed to know the height of the nozzle vs. the height of the sensor.
Hope I said that clearly and it makes sense.
-S
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Thank y‘all for the great tips really appreciate this infos 
I’ve gotten into the habit of using “Wipe’N Clear Lens Wipes” (it has some alcohol in the wipes) in between every print. The advantage is the wipes are large, disposable and do a good job on the snapmaker surface or glass. The large wipe area also means its easy to apply an even pressure and really get the surface clean.
Switching to using the wipes instead of simply alcohol did wonders with PLA, I use it for PETG. I have one of the original snapmakers.
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I wanted to upgrade my bed with a glass plate and now I got one and im pretty sure that the glass is flat but my bed is soo uneven no wonder bigger prints failed this often
Front right corner
Front left corner
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what do you mean by glass transition temp.? can you explain what this is?
@Somnium plastics don’t just go from solid to liquid, they have more of a spectrum of softening and melting. The glass transition temperature is a point on this curve, which is different for each material. This is a good temperature as the plastic is still soft, but not too soft or runny.
For PLA, first layer around 60-70 degrees celsius is a recommended temp, and have the bed cool to 50-60 degrees celsius for following layers.
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thanks for the explanation. I do the first layer with 70 and the following with 65 but I will try it with 55. with the lower temp for following layers prevent to get an elephant foot or warping right?
I believe lowering the temperature helps prevent warping, I’m not sure if it helps with elephant foot. A good way to deal with elephant’s foot is by adjusting settings in your slicer, though I don’t think that luban has that functionality. Maker’s Muse has a good video on it which I’ve linked here.
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With the new bed, I have been getting fantastic adhesion. I screwed up though. I wanted to recalibrate on a hot bed, so I let the bed warm for half hour and started an 11x11 calibration. It was time to set the z offset so I moved the head to the build plate. I accidentally had the control on 10 mm so when I hit the down button, the head crashed into the bed. Hard. Well, I pulled the head back and set it with the .1mm setting. Unfortunately, the next print, the second on the new bed, dug a .5mm channel through the bed ruining it. I think if you crash the head in to the bed, you need to recalibrate from the start, I recalibrated and still got great adhesion, but a big portion of the new bed is unusable.
It was the new Energetic 3D that I trashed.
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Any time that you run into something with a tool head I highly recommend using the ‘go to home’. That way it resets your tool head position. Since the SM has no feedback from the modules it has no way to know if it gets bumped out of position.
-S
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I upgraded my printbed with a 4mm glassplate and currently making the fifix from stefix for auto leveling on glass bc manuel leveling is a bit tricky
After cutting my 3D teeth on an Anet 8, I have tried the usual suspects for eliminating non-adhesive beds, hair spray, glue stick etc. The best I have experimented with so far is spray-on carpet adhesive (in the UK this brand name is Copydex). In Spain where I now live I have come across no less than four different kinds of spray carpet adhesive. The one I am now using is called Novopren and it is removeable, so you should have a good chance of separating your work piece from the bed once printing is complete. It aint cheap (€11.30 per 400 ml can) but a little goes a long way. I hope this helps. So far everything has stuck, including small fiddly items like chess pieces.
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What you definitely should not try: Cleaning the Snapmaker Bed with Acetone.
This dissolves the the plastic coating on the sheet metal
Best
Martin (BTDT)
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I tried haurspray an this works very fine for me.
Thanks to all the anwsers Sure gonna check out some of your ideas