Still struggling with bed adhesion

Hello fellow makers,
For the last prints I’ve made is struggled with reeeally bad bed adhesion i tried a few cleaning options and releveld the bed and tried gluestick too tried variation of z offsets but nothing works. When i started printing i had no problems with that now every first lyer will not stick too the bed properly even a brim helped nothing
This picture is from the last try

And this was befor the above pic

After a year i still have problem with the bed levelling and bed adhesion. :face_with_symbols_over_mouth:

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They should release a reinforcement kid vor the bed like @stefix did with his bed maybe even a glasbed kit @staff

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I’m using translation software to communicate, so there may be different nuances.

Are the hand-held items and the cubes or molding on the bed made of PLA material?

There are a few things I’m curious about.

  1. where is the filament made from?
  2. is the material PLA?
    First of all, is the filament moist, rather than nozzle height?
  3. what is the temperature setting of the heat bed?
    What temperature is the nozzle temperature set at?

If it is caused by moisture, try putting it in an oven with a low temperature setting (about 50℃) and let it dry for at least 4 hours.
If it is the filament that came with Snapmaker, give up and try a different filament.

I have never had a PLA/PLA+ come off the heat bed.
The only similar wavy condition I’ve seen is with filament that has gotten fat and full of moisture.


Thanks for this reply yes it is the snapmaker filament but i printed with this totally fine befor the temp was 190 nozzle and 55 bed and its pla. The filament is not that old but i will try the option with the ofen

I think 190°C is low for Pla.
I use PLA 1.75mm from eSUM and PRILINE, but I set the temperature to 210℃.
The heat bed is 65℃.

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I have been setting the initial layer temperature to 210 (adjusting between 205 and 215 if needed) and the initial bed temperature to 65 (bumping up to 70, 75, 80 if I need more adhesion) , using the snapmaker-provided PLA.

I have an initial failure-to-adhere, but it is just the first 10mm of brim line and does not impact the rest of the print. After that, adhesion is spot-on.

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I had the same problem.
My problem is that the bed became too irregular to be compensated by the auto calibration.
One fix I found is to start the print a bit higher (in z offset) of what you would normally do (in order to avoid areas where the bed is too close and no plastic is extruded) and compensate ir by setting high temperature for first layer (210-215c) and higher flow (112%, my E constant is at factory default) and speed 18-30mm/s , initial bed temp 60c.
Is good to see other ppl has succeeded too, doing the same.
/edit your bed seems to be in good state, I started breaking mine when testing PETg and TPU -_-…

If you have not yet calibrated your e-steps, you should really do it. It makes a huge difference in many of the problems that people are seeing, especially bed adhesion. The default e-steps under extrude by typically ~10%.


I calibrated the e steps so this is not the problem ich „bake out the rest of the filament set the temp higher and and manuel level the bed bc auto leveling is not good

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It’s really weird, that a lot of people have problems with bed adhesion. My problem is more on the oposite side. It’s really hard to remove the prints. Especially when I print thin stuff like inlay-boxes.
After calibrating I configure the nozzle so that the calibration sheets slides with nearly no resistent between bed and nozzle.
A big problem is the uneven bed (A350). It doesn’t look like the leveling mesh has any effect on the print. Therefore sometimes I had to lower the nozzle, because the distance on some places on the buildplate is to high and the filament is not sticking.
Smaller prints are easier because the bed in the middle is quite level. The more the print goes near the edges the harder to print.


ok yeah I think its the bad filament too and I will do a upgrade on the bed to reinforce it

I had the same problem. Turns out that there is hidden code in snapmaker luban. If you look at the temps mid print, it will have gone down to 50 c instead of 70. Make sure to switch it back up to 70 or else it will fail.

In my history, gluesticks were the worst choice I ever made.

I was worried about adhesion issues w/ PETG, so I used some gluesticks (the purple one) and had complete lack of adhesion (literally rolling up onto the extruder instead of going onto the bed).

After that, I went and did a lot of alcohol+razor cleaning (keeping the razor at about a 10 degree tilt, and just scraping everything off in pretty much an alcohol bath).

I also went back to my tried and true setup for doing a “heated level” (note that this is just distilled knowledge from @tone, @brent113, and @MooseJuice’s and many others from around this forum) :

Step 1: Make 2 macros.

First macro (I called it “start level”):

G1029P7 ; set to 7 point leveling
G1029A ; run auto leveling

Second macro: (I called it “save level”):

G1029S ; save level
G1029D0 ; store level
G28 ; go home

Step 2: Set the bed temp to the temp you’re going to print at. Let it get to temp and sit there for maybe 5-10 minutes.

Step 3: Run the “start level” macro, it’ll take about 10 minutes, the tool will probe the bed in an 7 by 7 grid, doing a concentric square to the center. It’ll then stop, hovering just a bit above the center of the bed.

Step 4: set the bed temp to the temp you’re going to print at again

Step 5: Using the touch screen, go to the “control” app, and move the head down, probably moving in 1 or .1mm adjustments. This is where you use the calibration card to make sure that it’s just barely gripping it. I’ve found best results are when it grips it, but you can still slide the card in from the front (the original instructions say it should bend when you try to slide it in, I found that produced too low of a z level for me).

Step 6: run the “save level” macro, the head will return up to the top left of the machine, and the bed will come all the way forward.

Optional step 7 (only possible if you’re not using octoprint to run your prints): Print using at least a skirt, or maybe a full brim, and while the skirt/brim prints, use the tablet to do a fine adjustment to the z level until you get the “best average first layer”:


Not sure why you had trouble with glue sticks.
I always use the Elmer’s purple glue stick with PETG.
Adheres beautifully and releases well. Most people report similar experience.

Something else is wrong with your settings. Nozzle temp is too low or it’s under extruding or you need to lower first layer speed.


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Considering to get me a alu printbed with glas on it for a flater bed and better adhesion like stefix made it with his SM

The pattern you see in your bottom layer would suggest to me that you are printing a touch low, try raising your Z offset by 0.05-0.1mm

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Thanks for the tipp i will try that

I change the printer surface that it came with the 350 to a steel sign blank (white) and cut to fit the heating bed. Being steel it says in place.
It holds better, releases without having to pry off and adds a great finish. I clean the surface before ever print.

During the bed leveling l set the nozzle ± .15mm above surface using a discarded aluminum plate used in offset printing, I have found this to work well for me.
You will need to experiment with bed and nozzle temperature.

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I received my A350 in December 2020. I spent three weeks struggling with adhesion. Every time I thought the printer was dialed in, the next print would spaghetti across the bed on the first layer. Back to square one. After the three weeks, it became easier to get the prints to stick and come out right.

I had much better luck getting Luban prints to start than Cura prints but Luban suffers from some serious limitations at the moment.

I saw a post from I believe @WilliamBosacker who said that he believes the Snapmaker bed needs to be seasoned. I am now convinced he is right about that, after the initial three weeks, prints got better and better.

One problem I still suffer with the stock bed is that only about 75% of the bed is usable. In three of the four corners, I cannot get anything to stick to the bed. Sometimes the print sticks and then the second layer knocks off the first layer and then I have to cancel the whole print.

I put on an Energetic_3d bed yesterday, did a bed level and started a single layer print. The results were stunning. I had full adhesion on almost the entire surface of the bed. Now I am about 16 hours into a 27 hour print using about 60% of the bed and its is going great.

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