I have been 3d printing for a few months now, and here all of a sudden my prints won’t adhere to the bed. I was thinking maybe it was bad filament, so I will try with another spool. I just recently switched to this spool, and it is made by Overture. It is black PLA. I was able to print at least 4-5 other items before it started messing up. It will start, and print about 4-5" of the brim, but then the filament will stop sticking and start winding up around the nozzle.
I thought maybe it was the model, but I tried printing a basic calibration model and it did the same thing. The filament seems to fail to stick to the bed. I am using brim for bed adhesion. I clean my bed with rubbing alcohol, I would assume that is OK. Nothing else has been used. I also calibrated the system twice.
Any thoughts or advise would be appreciated!
I’m suspicious the nozzle height is not longer where it should be.
Slowly jog the nozzle (cold) to Z=0 using the touchscreen or Luban control interfaces. Jog side to side around the bed. Check at many points the calibration card is snug. Post your findings.
If that’s the case either redo the calibration, or adjust the nozzle height using the touchscreen while printing.
Make sure the nozzle is clean or that can mess up measuring the offset.
Can also be a problem if nozzle has gotten worn or deformed. It won’t extrude cleanly.
-S
I used to use alcohol but after a few cleans, nothing would stick. My cousin has a another brand printer and in those instructions it was mentioned to only use soap and water… I took the magnetic sheet to the sink, took a clean new sponge and put dish soap on it. I washed both sides of the sheet, dried it with paper towels, put it back on the printer and MAN DOES IT STICK NOW!
I was having all kinds of issue before. Now it just works. I also had issues with luban, so I switched to prusa and I find its easier to tune. I used luban for Laser and CNC.
That is because alcohol is acting solely as a degreaser. It doesn’t remove dirt and grim like soap can. Alcohol works really well when removing oils from sweat or fingerprints. However, using alcohol on dried food spatter is like trying to remove a rock from the surface, while soap and water can easily remove it.
BTW, there are some build surfaces where alcohol actually damages the surface, and will cause it to flake off over time. For those surfaces the manufacturer will recommend that you only using soap and water.
I know it has been a while since I replied, but I got a little busy with the holidays. Plus I got COVID and I have a suppressed immune system from medication I have to take for MS. So lets just say it wasn’t mild despite being vaccinated with a booster. Altho, I would hate to know what it would have been like without the shots.
I was able to get it to print after the issues, and pushed through a couple of projects without much effort. I changed the print size to make it a little smaller and it seemed to work. It was almost like it didn’t like printing on the edge of the bed. I actually flipped the print sheet over so I got a fresh start (no alcohol wiping). I also ruled out the filament as I swapped to Snapmaker brand and I am still struggling.
However, last night I went to print something new and had issues again. It seems to be that the bed is possibly not getting level in calibration. I watched the head move across the bed when it started, and the gap between it and the bed seemed way too wide. So, I am thinking the calibration is not accurate.
I am wondering if the print module is having issues measuring. How does it measure? I had an issue a while ago where a bunch of filament got stuck on the unit (around the nozzle) because of a failed print. I tried to clean it up, but I think there is still some left I need to remove. Is there a sensor I need to mindful of? I will take the module off and clean it up the best I can. I believe the printer came with a second nozzle, so if that fails I might swap it out.
The nozzle shouldn’t be getting anywhere close to the bed during calibration. The sensor measures the distance to the metal plate magnetically. Only at the end when you use the card do you finally tell it how far the nozzle & sensor actually was when it was doing the measuring.