New and HIGHLY UNHAPPY user of a J1

This sorry excuse for a printer made me curse over the past 24 hours more than I normally do in a week. Repeated filament feed failures as described on this forum a year ago (J1 non stop clicking, under extrusion and filament load fail - Snapmaker J1/J1s) - what have you done about it since? Not compatible with either Cura or Slic3r (heads interfere with one another during material switch; Prusa slicer works, but if I have to use that, I’d rather get a quality Prusa printer). Linux version of a proprietary slicer is allegedly available, but every time I try to download the .deb file, it sends me to some weird URL where I get a server error - which is probably a good thing, as there is no telling what malware might be lurking in there. Impossible to start without consenting to data “sharing”. User interface that makes Win 11 look almost like an example of logic, common sense, and user friendliness. No printed manual or troubleshooting guide.

How about a novel thought: I am not your damn beta tester. When I plunk down a grand on a toy, I expect it to perform its basic advertised functions straight out of the box. And if you want performance data, you pay for them. What say you?

Hey @kdfjgka, hmm where to start, here are the latest and previous Luban versions for download:

Here is the firmware location if needed:

I don’t heard much about slicer problems, there are snapmaker provided profiles:
The official link of snapmaker page for cura (but it’s available in cura add on store too) :
https://github.com/Snapmaker/SnapmakerCuraPlugin/releases/download/0.9.4/SnapmakerPlugin-0.9.4.curapackage

Other profiles are available directly in the slicer or in the forum, I can’t catch them now it’s hard surfing around with the phone…
It seems you already found this?

And even a great wiki which could help you (including the quickstart guide):
https://wiki.snapmaker.com/en/snapmaker_j1

Be sure you could reach out to support and they will help you:
https://snapmaker.formcrafts.com/support-ticket
Or support@snapmaker.com

If you describe your problems nearer maybe some other J1 users jump in and assist you.
Basically I am a user like you but have a 2.0 and no J1.
Hope this helps a bit, don’t hesitate to describe your problems here.

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Sorry for the poor experience. Could you provide more details about the current printing issues?

Zoe: as you could have read in my original post, apart from defective hardware, lack of software, and scummy data policy - I really don’t have any issues. (Not actually true, because interface sucks, too, but that’s small potatoes.)

Defective hardware: illohminati described exactly the same issue in January of 2023 (see link below). Filament feeds fine when heads are parked; once heads move into the printing position, feeding mechanism starts clicking, fails to feed, underextrudes, and I get a filament error. Once heads are parked again, and I hit Resume, filament re-primes just fine only to fail again as described above. Three different filament brands (including the reels that came with the printer), two different materials, and I was FINALLY able to print the shark by holding two reels (of off-brand filament, I must add, could not get the snapmaker stuff to work no matter what I did) above the enclosure and feeding directly into the print heads. Clearly, snapmaker was aware of the defect for over a year, and clearly, they have done nothing about it.

Lack of software: solved, no thanks to snapmaker (and, heh, they fixed .deb download - but given their data policy discussed below, I still don’t trust it). Although I appreciate xchrisd suggestions above, shouldn’t the software be available directly from the manufacturer? In fact, Linux compatibility was one of the major selling points, and if the manufacturer fails to deliver on that, it smells very much like false advertisement. It also creates an ethical issue: if I am using Prusa slicer, I really should be using Prusa printer, to reward a company that actually stands behind their products.

Scummy data policy: I’ve actually read the click-through data agreement that snapmaker wants me to accept before giving me access to the machine I paid my perfectly good money for, and even in the most restricted form, it is exceedingly broad. Why snapmaker expects me to serve as their beta tester for my own money? What if I sell the machine, and the new user will be subject to the agreement he never accepted? No skin off my nose, though, since I am not putting the printer online, but in my world, those agreements are opt-in only, with rewards for those willing to share their data (and I am still not interested). The real scum move comes from the fact that I have not been informed of this upfront; if I had been, I would have considered a different brand.

I know snapmaker personnel reads this forum, so my question is - what are you going to do to fix the faulty hardware? I’ll let the other two slide.

@kdfjgka I would recommend that you abandon the idea of using Luban if you’re having issues with it. It’s not the best of slicer anyways. You can use any slicer if you input the correct machine settings for it. It sounds like you havent done that…
Regarding the feeding problems: I assume you got the old version of the toolheads? You should probably ask Snapmaker to send you the new ones. They work fine…

Hi @kdfjgka

For this issue with filament feed resistance, you can start by checking this Wiki page for initial troubleshooting: False trigger of the “Failed to Load Filament” error (J1). I also see that you’ve already submitted a ticket, so please rest assured that Kira will assist you in resolving the problem.

For Luban, the system does support Linux. You can check out this Wiki for more details: Download, Install & Update Snapmaker Luban

Luban is beginner-friendly software, and you can refer to this Wiki for basic usage: Manual of Snapmaker Luban. We are also working on optimizing it for more advanced applications. Additionally, we support third-party software. You can select Snapmaker J1/J1s directly from the Printer list in OrcaSlicer and PrusaSlicer. Since these are third-party programs, their support for IDEX might not be ideal, but we are exploring ways to improve the experience.

Before using the J1/J1s, users need to agree to a user agreement. This must be accepted before you can proceed with the initial use. We understand that you may have concerns and dissatisfaction with this. Could you please specify which terms of the policy you find unsatisfactory?

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For this issue with filament feed resistance, you can start by checking this Wiki page for initial troubleshooting

I can certainly start*. What I am curious to hear, is why a toy that I paid a grand for fails to perform its most basic functions without a stupid song and dance routine.

*So I checked your Wiki. None of that is really applicable because filament feeds and extrudes perfectly fine in parked position and only fails to do so when printing starts. The closest thing I can see there is extruder gears being out of whack, but how is that my problem, and why do I have to waste my time dealing with your manufacturing defects?

For Luban, the system does support Linux.

Maybe it does. I have had no opportunity to find out because I was getting server error while trying to download it, and now I have no interest in it, because Prusa slicer seems to work adequately.

Before using the J1/J1s, users need to agree to a user agreement.

Tell me something I didn’t know.

Could you please specify which terms of the policy you find unsatisfactory?

About all of them. For the third time, I am not interested in paying my money to serve as your beta tester. I am not interested in my device that I paid my money for, phoning home without my explicit permission for every instance or my direct control over what information is transmitted. And, for those who do use those things for prototyping actual designs, this is a data leak large enough to drive an eighteen-wheeler through. I wonder if that has been the intention all along.

Heh, I don’t have any issues with Luban because I am not using it. And I am not using it because it failed to download the first 5 times around, and in the meantime I managed to get Prusa slicer to work (as far as I can see - it seems to position the heads correctly). So that problem is solved, no thanks to snapmaker.

As you describe your problem, it appears that the Z clearance is simply too tight, restricting the flow of filament. The J1s calibrates to the conductive metal plate, and inserts an offset for the thickness of the glass build plate. Your plate may be slightly thicker than assumed. I just got my J1s yesterday, and Z clearance after calibration was too loose. I had to click “Adjust” and Z axis, and click up .05mm twice. Now it is perfect. It sounds like you need to Adjust and click down a few clicks. Too loose, and the filament won’t stick. Too tight, and you get the clicking noise. First layer filament should be oval shaped, not round (too loose) and not very flat and wide (too tight).

The problem I see is one or the other hot end won’t start heating without manual intervention, even on the built-in X-Y alignment test print that must be run. Very strange. The bed heating and the hot end temperatures kept dropping. I had to re-set manually for every layer. I confirmed I have firmware 2.7.2. The fan added for the “s” version is very loud. I am going to slow it down. I’m still printing the riser for the lid on my QIDI X-Max so I can install the top cover and not interfere with the Bowden tubes. J1s is a beautiful machine with a few warts. Best of luck.

I’ll try that tonight, thank you. As tech support was less than… supportive or knowledgeable, or willing to pay attention, if that fails, tomorrow morning that thing gets shipped back for refund.

@kdfjgka How did it go? Was the feeding problem caused by you not adjusting the z-offset?

Yes. And no.

First of all, n4es’ line of thinking clearly produced results: recalibrating, leveling, and maxing out z-clearance cleared failure to feed (but also produced failure to attach/fuse, as expected). As I was tweaking z-clearance to optimize that part, I got PLA gunk all over the glass plate. Popped it off, cleaned, popped it back on - failure to feed again. Popped it off/on again - failure to attach (not necessarily in this order). Last I tested it, I had z-clearance maxed out, and it still fails to feed.

I suspect the problem is inconsistent fit between the glass plate and the stage. Given that hot extruders poop PLA all over the contact pads during calibration, not surprising: although I try my best to clean the stage after that, who knows? Either that, or the stage fails to hold calibration when the glass comes on/off/on.

I guess I made enough progress (thanks for nothing, snapmaker!) to continue plugging along over the weekend. Either I get it working by Sunday night or return it for refund Monday.

When I do a calibration, I first do a cold pull on both extruders and then crank the temp up to 300 and let the remaining filament drip out. Then there is no problem with oozing filament on the conductive pads.

sigh It is not getting any better. Thought I fixed the stupid thing; clearly I did not. Now it gives me either failure to feed (with the nozzle grinding against the plate) throughout the full range of nozzle height adjustments or failure to adhere throughout the same range, depending on some random events I cannot even fathom during the previous calibration/leveling cycle. I lucked out on ONE calibration where I was able to print the manufacturer-supplied boat. Quality sucked, but I’ll call it the second sort-of successful print. That’s what I got for a thousand bucks so far.

Conclusions:

  1. Either glass plate fails to consistently index to the stage following removal/installation, or the stage loses calibration during the installation of the plate. Or both.
  2. Nozzle height adjustment is there for the show. Otherwise, with the alleged adjustment range (0.8 mm) there would be at least one setting that would give me something resembling OK print, even if the plate failed to index correctly.
  3. Not a conclusion, but an observation: at one point, the printer screen flashed a message that a certain app (within the printer) wants to access my contact list. Is that some kind of undocumented feature, and not for the benefit of the user? Would members of the snapmaker team like to comment on that?

Oh, and: 4. temperature sensors seem to be about 10 degrees C off. Idle print head was showing the extruder temperature of 31C in a room that was 20 at the most.

Long story short, I have had enough. Well over a week, significantly more than 20 hours of my time, and I still don’t have a functioning unit. This thing gets tossed back into the box tonight and shipped for full refund tomorrow.

@kdfjgka why dont you show us a picture of the boat? Anyways, it sounds like you didnt clean the bed between your prints. Maybe put your fingers on the surface too? That would cause the material to not adhere. Did you use the Pei coated side of the buildplate?

  1. Don’t feel like it.
  2. I am pretty sure I did. Soap and water; isopropanol (on different occasions). How would that explain the nozzle grinding?
  3. Maybe I did. But probably not 50 times in a row.
  4. I used the side the startup guide specifies. The one with printed symbols. Are you telling me I should have used the other one? I tried that, too. Whole lot good that did.

Sounds like you’re having fun :upside_down_face:

  1. It obviously wouldnt. The nozzle should never touch the buildplate. Too much z-clearence = no adhesion. Too little z-clearence = nozzle touches the buildplate.
  2. The rough side is the one you should be using for PLA. It is coated with PEI.
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This is the kind of fun I’d rather pass on. I’ll save my necrotechnomagic for things that really need it - like that 1970s outboard I am trying to bring back to life, mostly for the hell of it. New things should work as advertised, IMO, and this one clearly doesn’t.

  1. But that is exactly my problem. I calibrate/level, everything checks out. Plate on, nozzle grinds, fails to feed throughout the adjustment range. Remove the plate, check calibration/level - everything checks out again. Clean the stage, plate back on, nozzle grinds again. Or fails to adhere, again, throughout the adjustment range - depending on whatever mystery that happened in between.
  2. Yup. Come to think about it, though, I might have gotten somewhat better (=print consistently going beyond the first layer) results on the smooth side with a little of glue stick. Rough side produced nothing so far beyond seriously flowery curses.

Kinda late-ish thought: when the stage is a console like that, with two linear bearings and a screw in the back, and the front part is unsupported in the air, I am surprised it holds calibration at all. But apparently it does, at least for some people.

Might be a bit late, but if that is still unsolved: Just to have it checked, is maybe some part of your print bed faulty? I had loads of issues with the print heads clicking and such (check the “Findings and solution for the Snapmaker J1 clogging problem” thread, but apart from that, the printer basically worked even before I threw out the controller, and bed leveling worked and works perfectly, as long as I keep in mind that even smaller drops of filament may throw it off and wait with calibration until really nothing (!) oozes out of the hotend - I simply let the hotends heat up, wipe them once with a suitable cloth - and then let the printer stay like that for half an hour until I come back, wipe again and let is calibrate.

That being said: Despite its IMHO not-so-ingenious controller and firmware, the J1 hardware is overall really good. I only need to recalibrate if I change the hotends, apart from that the calibrated offset is rock solid, even if I let the printer sit for months.
Since you mention that even removing the print plate and inserting it again throws yours off, I would assume that - unless there is some firmware error - some part is faulty. That might be either some part of the bed (there e.g. have been cases reported here that the plastic heat plate clamps were broken which caused leveling or printing issues, or the metal finger on the side of the bed that is used to push the microswitch endstop of the bed might be loose) or that the endstop switch itself is either faulty or loose.

I guess the stupid decision that you cannot manually move the bed to z=0 with the original firmware still exists? If so try the following:

  • create a plain text file named “z0.gcode” that just contains the line
G1 Z0 F500
  • upload it to the printer or use a USB stick to get it there. (Explanation: G1 means “move”, “Z0” means “move to Z=0”. “F500” is the speed - rather slow; if you want to speed it up, increase the value)
  • Now home the printer.

Move the printhead(s) where you want them, “print” the file and check the nozzle distance. Repeat several times. If that works, repeat the process but rehome the printer every time. If that works, remove and insert the printing plate every time etc… until you find the task that made it go wrong.

As soon as you have found that, the error can be narrowed down. Currently, you are fishing in muddy waters, as far as I can see.

I had a similar problem. No matter how often I did the calibration, the nozzle distance to the print plate was either too far or too short when I printed it. Nothing helped.
In the end, I reset the printer to factory settings before calibrating and from that point on I never had any problems with the calibration again. Apparently there are still a few stored values ​​lying dormant internally that are not corrected during calibration.