The important point is,
- the light should be on while unscrewing the head.
- service position
If it is not possible to unplug the head at a running machine, the user has to unplug the tool before turning the machine on, this would be no problem.
2 Likes
for the problem with the lightā¦ My workaround is as following:
Machine is switched off, unplug the mounted toolhead, and plug in the next toolhead.
Than switch mashine and light on and change the toolheads. And than you can directly home.
Ahh yes I forgot about the light, i chose not to buy the enclosure so I have a separate light over my work space:)
Does anyone else find it strange that you have to re-authorize access via wifi after every restart?
This is an unusual behavior. Normally, the handshake with the network should be saved permanently, as the printer may not be near the PC. Can this please be changed in one of the next updates?
4 Likes
This was suggested repeatedly, but it was not changed yet.
2 Likes
Couple UI suggestions for the touchscreen; donāt know if these are considered āfirmwareā specifically or not.
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Already mentioned, but seconded: if I go to āControlā and set a bed and head temp for 3D printing, please keep these maintained when I leave that page vs. resetting both to off. Reason: I do auto-bed leveling HOT because I think it makes a difference (any heat-related distortion is now built-in). [I recognize for the laser or milling toolhead ability to leave them on while going elsewhere in the UI is probably NOT wanted.
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Along those lines, offer ability to heat bed and nozzle as part of the auto-bed-leveling. Suggested temps 65C bed, 95C extruder (not hot enough to actually extrude or burn filament and create biproducts/clog risk).
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The Touchscreen UI should have either a ābannerā or āNotificationsā (as with Android phones) across the top of current bed temp (and on/off state) and current printhead temp (and on/off state). This goes along with the suggestion to keep them on when leaving the āControlā window. EDIT - Also whether the doors are currently detected as CLOSED or OPEN!!
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Allow us to set a default for the enclosure light that gets remembered, so as soon as the unit powers on the light just comes on? Same for fan state perhaps.
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Could we see during printing status, besides the simple circle indicator, a second screen option of temp plots vs. time, movement speed vs. time (currently just streamed numerically), also cooling fan speed vs. time, sort of thing? More eye candy than anything else but might help with issue diagnosis sometimes (esp the cooling fan status in overhang droop situations).
7 Likes
Iām highly interested in this as well. Iād also really appreciate better support for M600 - Filament Change when 3D Printing. It currently pauses and unloads the filament, but doesnāt provide a way to resume. An on-screen button would be great, but support for Marlinās EMERGENCY_PARSER extension and M108 via serial console would be sufficient too.
2 Likes
FOR THOSE WITH THE 99% PRINT JOB āSTOPā with 1.10.
I had this too. Iāve āneverā used Luban for printing. Iāve always used Simplify3D. Iāve sliced a few things in Luban to simply grab a few settings and check out/copy some/most of the starting/ending G-code.
What i did to fix this was:
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clean up the ācommentsā in the āEnd Scriptā stuff (if using another slicer). Itās likely that any new parsing firmware code is reading some extra things IF your machine is truly ālocked upā. I suspect itās reading what it thinks are ācommandsā of some sort in the comments and freaking a bit.
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Change the Z ending movement speed from F300 to F3300. My ending script in S3D looks like this (NOTE: this is for the A350 !!! ) :
;End GCode begin
M104 S0
M140 S0
G90
G92 E0
G1 E-1 F300
G1 Z330 E-1 F3000
G1 X0 F3000
G1 Y350 F3000
M84
;End GCode end
Also for mine (after removing the comments), i found that it wasnāt EXACTLY stopped, the Z axis was just moving extremely slowly.
Now that iāve received replacement rails and am printing again and received and am using the Enclosure for printing, and because of the enclosure am using the WiFi more, iāll add my voice to come of the requests as above!
- WiFi permanent connection confirmation: obviously this is a slight security concern. There can be some handshaking/setup process though to make a āpermanentā connection, such as connecting, asking if you want to make the connection permanent, then if āyesā, input a code from the other machine to generate a public/private key pair that gets exchanged at each connection going forward. I will note that how it is in 1.10 (with only having to āconfirmā the connection once each power up is vastly improved than what it was originally, which was confirming every single time!
- Case: Like above, my slicing computer is my āmainā computer, which is on the first floor and one i use for gaming. My 3D printers are on the second floor, locked away in the āofficeā, since they are loud and OF COURSE not in the same room. No freakin way! Now, the enclosure makes a HUGE difference in noise, to the point where I can be on a meeting 5ft away from the machine and people canāt hear the printer, so thatās sweet.
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Heated bed during calibration: definitely. I think this topic well known and covered across many, many threads on the forum. Itās easy to accomplish (at least with auto-leveling) by manually heating the bed to something like 80-90C (yes it will take 10-15 minutes, faster inside the enclosure).
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Better filament runout process: I may have just gotten a crappy batch/spool of filament, but the position of the spool with the enclosure is very, very poor. once it got into the middle of the roll, the filament kept snapping, so I had to keep reattaching it. Soā¦
- Would be ideal if the filament came straight down from the top (will probably be removing the top and replacing it with something else so i donāt have to drill into the nice orange plastic, since the side and top are not the same sizeā¦). I tried inside back in its original position, but that still snapped against the top. Currently I have it on my SM1 (which is on a shelf next to the SM2), spool facing the SM2 side door, top acrylic 1/2 unscrewed with the filament feeding through the top (acrylic kept āseparatedā with small wedges about an inch on 2).
- having a ārefill positionā might be cool, but mostly useful if you only print consistently under certain areas. or i guess if itās off to the side out of the print area (assuming there is still room after the print has started). being able to set that āon the flyā per-print, or detect it āsmartlyā should be easy enough though. where i have the filament feed though (coming in from the right side instead of the back left) it makes it pretty easy to refill.
- Keeping the filament at the same temp when refilling is kind of important. So far Iāve seen the temp go from 220 and could sit there for āhoursā until I hit the first āready to reloadā, then it starts to drop. From what iāve seen, the temp says 200, but it falls way past that likely the machine ādisconnectsā as it does every time loading a pretty hefty G-code file. (more later on that) So i have to give it a second, then change the temp to 220 so that it A) triggers the temp increase of the nozzle and B) goes to the right temp for the actual filament of whatās in there already (since it JUST ran out).
I think those are my main things atm. it WOULD be good if the serial interface recognized commands regardless of case (as in M503 = m503), but there may be a reason for that.
2 Likes
Snapmaker team,
Is it possible to get the latest version of the firmware and Luban software in a more easily accessible/intuitive area as a link off the Snapmaker front page? It would be so much less frustrating for us newbies to find the files we obviously will need to be successful after receiving our new machines.
Thank you
Just commenting on you filament problems:
I was also wondering why Snapmaker didnāt include a bowden tube for their new and pretty well designed new enclosure. sO I have designed a new filament holder with bowden tube fixtures:
I have to redesign it a little bit because the position of the bowden tube inlet is not good if the spool is not at least half empty. But it is working pretty well and there are no filament problems like yours anymore.
1 Like
try this filament holder:
1 Like
excellent! Not to derail the firmware updates thread any more with talk of the enclosure filament, but thanks @Mr_Fen and @rojaljelly. iām not actually part of the FB group as i donāt really use FB at all, but def mr fenās mount is something i would be looking for! Iāll start a separate thread whenever I get the chance to mod it. With mr fenās side mount (at least as a starting point) thatās an idea on not putting a cross brace with some standard 2020 (even though the square bars are not standard 23mm, shouldnāt matter for what iām thinking about doing). I have some ideas for top and bottom with things, so it might be a bit more than that. Keep an eye over the next few week/months for it!
2 Likes
With the announcement that all KS batches have now shipped, when can we expect the source code to be released as promised @Edwin @Rainie @staff ?
Hello, How many time takes upgrade ?
Only a few minutes. ā¦
Screen was stuck to Ā« Updatingā¦ Ā» all the night.
I stopped and restart and all seems working with new firmware.
1 Like
Yes Please! My printer is in my workshop area in the garage, the computer is up 2 flights of stairs in my office. Everytime I want to print, I have to go to the garage, power up the printer then head upstairs and start Snapmaker Luban. I find the printer and hit connect, walk downstairs, accept the connection, walk back upstairs to the computer and then send the g-code to the printer. Walk back downstairs accept the file, and start the print. I suppose itās good exercise but itās really inefficient.
4 Likes
Any chance that you guys could update the āFactoryā screen to be in English?
The latest version of the Touchscreen firmware did not fix the problem of the prints finishing. The screen says 100% finished but the model is just as unfinished as it was before. I have two models of the same to prove it. Could someone please fix this problem? The printer is useless if the firmware doesnāt know how to complete the print jobs. Thanks!
1 Like