Bigger nozzle possible?

Wondering if SM2 can handle nozzles up to 1mm…
Does anybody use such big nozzles at his SM2? Where is the limit in extrusion-rate?


I have printed last week with a 1mm nozzle. I had no problems with layer height of 0.6 mm and 40 mm/s printing speed. I printed PLA at the lowest possible Temperature. With material that needs more cooling, you probably have to go slower.

But in my opinion a viable option on the Snapmaker 2.0. Could decrease Printing time from 7 Hours on the 0.4 nozzle and pretty fast printing speed to two hours with those 40 mm/s. So I am pretty happy with it.


I have used a 1mm nozzle for big parts.

The maximum speed before clicking of the extruder was about 60mm/s at 0,35mm layer height with petg.
Try it out, its a nice to have option :wink:


Thanks guys! Sounds good! So I will buy some bigger nozzles :slight_smile:

Good to know that you can use up to 1 mm. I want to use a PETG filament with carbon fibres so I need 0.6 and a hardened nozzle. I found this one:
Nozzle X

Nozzle X is the last nozzle your 3D printer will ever need. Made from a hardened tool-steel base, they are then Nickel plated to maintain hardness at elevated temperatures, and have a WS2 coating applied to provide the nozzle with reduced stick properties. Rated to a maximum temperature of 500°C, Nozzle X prints every printable material*, from PLA all the way to Carbon Fibre-filled PEEK without wearing.

It’s from E3D.
But I don’t know how to disassemble the nozzle without breaking it so I don’t know what the thread is. Hopefully MK8??
Any thoughts?

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Mk8 is right.
You have to preheat first, take the filament out of the print head and then disassemble the nozzle, attention hot :wink:

Maybe a temp runaway error occurs, you have to restart the printer after assembling.
It’s because of the transfered heat to your disassembling tool, like a wrench.

Great thanks. I’ll investigate.

Tried ‘standard’ E3D nozzles, not compatible. The thread is the same (M6) but the threaded part is longer for E3D and the cone towards the aperture is shorter. Bummer.

Yeah The E3D nozzle X is a V6 nozzle, while the thread is the same it doesnt match in length, so while it is probably possible to make adjustments to make it work, it is not as simple as buying an mk8 nozzle.

Since the thread is longer and the nozzle end is shorter, its possible that a jam nut or spacer could be used to accomplish the proper height. Although I think the precision required to accomplish that for the sake of installing a 40 dollar nozzle may not be worth the hassle, I was very interested in trying the nozzle x myself until I read up on the differences.

Maybe for the sake of experimenation ill buy a v6 nozzle and see if we can machine a proper spacer to make it work!

Edit: infact, fuck it - im going in. stay tuned


I think the clearances are so tight and with leakage already a problem I personally wouldn’t waste my time or money on it.
There are plenty of alternatives that are the same shape and dimensions as the original nozzles. I believe the Olsson Ruby nozzle for one.


Does the heatbreak have a shoulder that prevents it from being threaded farther in? Normally you’d just thread it farther in to compensate.

Downloading 3d models for both types of nozzles from mcmaster carr, it looks like there is a clean 3mm difference in shoulder height.

However, doing so would give a small bit less of thread.

I think it would probably be fine to just add a (tight tolerance) 3mm spacer and install the nozzle.

That’s not the heatbreak, the heat break is what the filament enters on the top side of the hot end.

I realize that, but instead of threading and guessing, a spacer would allow you to just thread it up and tighten it without guess work.

I’m somewhat confused. Is the problem it’s too long or too short? As long as it sticks out past the cooling duct does this matter? Can’t the Z height be offset?

The thread it too long AND the beak is too short, so just utilizing the longer thread, add a spacer for he shoulder to shift the beak down to the proper height.

I am sure programatically you could overcome the nozzle being in a different place, but since its all based on the calibration sensor measuring for a specific height, why over complicate things. put the tip of the nozzle where it belongs.

I don’t really follow. You’re replacing the nozzle pictured on the right with the nozzle on the left? or replacing the left with the right?

The nozzle on the left is V6. The nozzle on the right is MK8.

To get the tip of the nozzle to match the tip of the nozzle on the MK8 simply space the shoulder out 3 mm.

Ill try to model it out later, im not very good at this sort of thing, but mechanically its a simple adaption.

So to get it to line up and bind on the top against the heatbreak you would screw the heatbreak in or out exactly 1/2 turn since the nozzles are 0.5mm different at the top?

Does it need to bind against the heat break?