Is anyone printing with nylon x *(carbonfiber nylon filament) ?
I know you need a stainless steel tip because its abrasive material. But im wondering is anyone here useing it? What are your settings looking like?
Thanks
Is anyone printing with nylon x *(carbonfiber nylon filament) ?
I know you need a stainless steel tip because its abrasive material. But im wondering is anyone here useing it? What are your settings looking like?
Thanks
I have a followup question. I have only printed plain PLA, very boring I know.
I keep seeing things about abrasive filaments and the need for special nozzles. I can buy 30 brass nozzles for $10 - how abrasive are these materials? Abrasive enough that just changing nozzles as they wear out isnāt worth it?
I canāt answer your specific questions, but there is some discussions in the forums about nozzle wear. This is a lot of info, but thereās so many good comments and links in these threads that itās hard to summarize. For example, there are links in the first thread about how to tell when a nozzle needs to be replaced.
Itās my understanding that some of the more abrasive materials can affect the nozzle even after a couple prints.
I picked up both a hardened steel and a titanium alloy on eBay. Theyāre 1.2mm but havenāt had a chance to try them yet.
Iāll need to use cura because luban doesnāt support different nozzle sizes.
Brass conducts heat better so you need to increase nozzle temp 5-10Āŗ.
-S
So currently iām using one of these: https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/ezflow-nozzles-copper-nozzles-with-tough-plating/ (the MK8 version). It works well so far. I chose this because A) the TH3D people are great and know a lot about printing and such (iāve worked with them on my CR-10 stuff), and B) it seemed like a decent compromise between any majorly hardened/specialty nozzles and the basic brass ones where I could switch between a few of the more basic filaments I use.
So far Iāve generally using PLA and sometimes TPU. I am using the adapter ārequiredā from this thread (Printing TPU with A250) needed to help with the flexible filaments, but I want to reprint it and maybe fill it out a bit more so itās tighter once installed as right now itās a bit loose.
Currently dealing with a minor shifting issue. Not sure if I just need to break everything down and perform some maintenance, which I should probably do as i have a lot of pending mods and such to do, or if the edge of model catches and things āshiftā. Thatās the reason i am mentioning itā¦ because there is talk of the nozzles, and this one iām using is supposed to have more heat transfer, and as iām trying to print in āfiner detailā, sometimes the edges of the print ācurlā, I noticed on 1 print some āsnappingā where the edge of the print would catch the fan box as the module āre-enteredā the model for that next layer. So since my setup has EXTREMELY good adhesion, if the curl is high enough, and the nozzle catches the edge of the model, I can see the linear module skipping and the model not moving. (printing on Anycubic glass, screwed to the bed for perfect level. Will showcase when the mod builds are all done! but other info on glass printing: A350 - printing on glass).
I did have a bit of a failure on TPU the last attempt with this nozzle, but i think it just needs dialing in because itās def different than the brass. What i like about it (esp with TPU) is that it doesnāt stick to the outside.
Hi, Can I double check whether you are printing with nylon?
Thanks,
Jon