The long-awaited quick swap kit for Snapmaker 2.0 250/350 machines

You can print one in a pinch - Printables

It probably took longer to type all that then it would have to check the wiki - Quick Start Guide for 2.0 Quick Swap Kit | Snapmaker Wiki

@Padre-O Could you please show me what’s the instruction card that you have found in the Quick Swap Kit package? As I know, it should guide you to go to Snapmaker Support Center to read the Quick Start Guide instead of watch a video. There’s no video tutorial for Quick Swap Kit, but an online Wiki and a PDF version. I’d like to know what cause the misunderstanding. Thanks.

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@profhenning @Wyphorn Yes. You can buy the toolhead plate separately. Get it in the Accessories for Snapmaker 2.0 category in the store:


In the Quick Start Manual there’s a remark that confuses me:

@Jade would you mind to explain what is the difference?

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Hi, Riskey and @Jade.
I think it is necessary to mention the work area when using the dual extruder.

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This is easy to explain. They saved money and did not filled all of these adapter screws I highlighted in my picture.

I Had the old frame which was quiet wobbling as this is one of the first devices of Kickstarter campaign. So i wanted the new frame for printing and just switched all screws from old to new frame. So the wobble one is now for CNC where it is not that hard when I have ±0.5mm.

And for sure. It is a weak from snapmaker that they don’t Install these 8 screws from factory. This is 1$ extra. And now they have to wrote that note in the document and all think"wtf?". I cant understand that. :man_shrugging:t3:


That was/is my plan also! Is the new frame at least flat (enough)? My anxiety was that they used frames that did not pass QC here…

Yes! Exactly my thoughts! I mean, for what it is the Quick Swap Kit is not really cheap… The few screws really would not have hurt :frowning:

Thanks for sharing your information! Will do the same as you and swap screws…

Was a little disappointed that those M6 hex head with M4 thru hole bolts weren’t installed. Wanted to use the new frame for FDM and the old frame for CNC. I suppose I could just take the bolts from the old frame and pop them in the new.

Question for laser users. I have installed the quick swap kit and now the auto function for the 10w laser won’t work. Not a big deal since I am used to setting the laser and CNC manually. I was just curious if anyone else has had this issue?

Same here, auto height no longer works on the laser. Thought it was a coincidence, but apparently not. So doing manual now. I bet is something they can fix in the firmware.

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@Dazwoodturner , @sciss - go to settings and recalibrate the auto height. It will start working.

Please fill out the Support Ticket Form
So they can get some feedback and fix this, it should message about this on the touch screen.


I will try that. Thanks!

Right, I had only done focus but not target height re-calibration. Now it works, thanks.


Now being back at my machine and having received the Quick Swap Kit, I’d soften my statement a bit. I did not realize that the extra screws are not needed for the CNC wasteboard, so I guess their decision to leave the screws out is understandable. It even might have been worse, they might have designed a new frame just for CNC, and then the plans of @Wyphorn and me would have been really thwarted and we could not have used the new platform grid as replacement for the bumpy 3D platform.

Whatever, a first glance at the new grid makes me hopeful - it seems to be nice and flat. Will use the weekend for installing everything, and then I’ll do a before-and-after analysis… It would be great if I’d have a nice and flat bed after this… fingers crossed.

Hi @Wyphorn,
did your new platform actually improve flatness? From comparing old/new 11x11 grids I’m a bit disappointed… Would have expected a better result:

What surprises me is how the bumps are basically in the same places. That hints somehow that the heated bed itself contributes to the unevenness… /me is confused…

EDIT: The most prominent bump can be felt when I move my flat hand across the surface of the heated bed… and it is in a place where there are no screws - I guess that’s just not fixable except to buy a new bed. Or would anybody think that pressing it between two heavy blocks and heating it up might flatten such a material as the heated bed is made from?

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Yep, same here. Thank you all for the help.


My new bed is much better than the old one.
I have not so nice graphics nor a Matrix, but i did a normal 5x5 calibration with my dual extruder and i printed a full surface Z Index test and the result is much better now. 3/4 of my surface seems good, Just Front/- right is too high. I will have a look for 11x11 calibration later on.
This is really no compare to old frame. But I normally just print with my a150 without any wobbling issues, so in case I have to use the a350 for printing i will handle this with some tricks like higher initiale layer, rafts and so on.
Overextrusion ist just because I use 100% flow in first layers.

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Did first print on the new platform, also with 5x5, and it looked good on first layer… perhaps I should run your pattern on my machine. Where would I get the STL?

I think it is this one:

I have it locally on my PC. But this looks equal.

The first layer did not look overwhelming, but as I ripped it off: it was really sticky everywhere, the layers were connected properly and I think this will work to print. Also with the default calibration and a full surface print.

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