Help, unless someone can actually tell me what I am doing wrong (instead of Snapmaker Support just Kicking off links to me), I am done with Snapmaker!!! I consider myself to be a very patient person. I have spent months trying to get the snapmaker 2.0 3d printer to work without success (even after upgrading to the dual extruder).
As you can see in the attached images, the Snapmaker 2.0 3D Printer just does not work. I lose 3 out of every 5 print attempts and the print quality of finished projects are terrible. This is the second extruder to fail and have a complete meltdown. The continuing support tickets keep sending me links for varying the extruder/bed temperatures or claim I am using substandard filaments.
I have submitted multiple tickets for assistance and trouble shooting. The Dual Extruder already had one meltdown and Snapmaker sent me a new replacement extruder (after I chisseled out the first one). However, now the entire dual extruder casing is melted to the PLA blob that has congealed around the entire base of the dual extruder (now a very ugly and expensive paper weight).
I have tried multiple extruders )initial single extruder, first dual extruder, now replacements of the dual extruder). I have used multiple “high quality” PLA types, varying the temperatures with the prescribed ranges (and over/under).
This is one of the most extreme cases of warping I’ve ever seen - wow! Are you sure you are printing with PLA? I only have seen this with PETG before…
Whatever, it seems that you have really bad bed adhesion, and potentially some drought that cools your prints inadequately. The bed adhesion thing seems from your pictures partly be related to your print bed being uneven, which unfortunately is not uncommon with the A350 printers. Several workarounds exist:
Use 11x11 bed leveling matrix
Shimming of the screw points of the heated bed to compensate unevenness
Replacing the print platform and/or the heated bed
Bed adhesion may also be poor when you have some dust or other residue on the bed - I had good success using dish washing soap and warm water to clean the print sheet - this usually restored the stickiness of the print sheet.
Regarding the drought: Is there a chance to place your device in a different place where it is less exposed to cold and/or wind? It may also help to have the print bed heated for 30 minutes or so before you start printing, to allow everything to get warmer.
I see that you started using skirts, but with your level of warping this is not enough. This dramatic warping has to be tackled before skirts make even sense.
If you leave it unattended until that state, it will likely get tangled in the head.
What’s even more unbelievable is repeatedly placing multiple large objects side by side in the same situation.
You should start with one small object in the center and determine the optimal value through verification.
I don’t think Snapmaker is at fault here.
Rather, I believe they sincerely take such unwarranted criticism to heart and provide support.
So thank you all for your comments and thoughts. I can tell you that the warping has happened on multiple print jobs of single pieces and the larger batches. I have used multiple temperature settings (room is ambient temperature, I tried extruder temperatures of both ends of the 200-230C PLA filament temperatures ranges, bed temperatures of 55-65 C, and before each run, I perform ALL of the 25 minutes of the calibration steps (Balancing, Alignment between extruder 1 and 2, X-Z, Y, etc.. ).
The red boxes highlight areas where the nozzle was either too high above the bed, or too low. The arrows show parts of the skirt to the same effect - I guess there you can best see the difference in how strong the filament was squished onto the bed. My assumption would be that those parts warp where the nozzle was too high, the filament barely sticking to the bed and thus easily lifting off when getting cold. So, improving bed flatness or increasing the bed calibration pattern points seems to be needed here. That said, I never tried 11x11 with the dual extruder, it may be that it is not possible, but with the single extruder it certainly works and improved my prints (I have a bad bed also) considerably ( 11x11 calibration with heated bed possible? - heated bed or not in the end did not make much difference in my case). For the DX I get along good enough with the maximum pattern density selectable from the touchscreen (I think it is 7x7, but I may be wrong).
Btw. I in the meantime had a closer look on my bumpy bed ( Stumped and tired - #72 by Hauke ) - in my case I’m 99% sure that my uneven bed is the heated bed itself, not the platform below. And the bumps are such that shimming will not save me. I bought a new heated bed which looks much better, but yet had no time to install it and compare.
Still, as said before - never have seen such extreme warping before - is this happening for every brand of PLA you use? I have one spool of PLA that warps like hell, but all others I use are well behaved… If you buy all from the same brand, consider changing…
You also had the effect of bed displacement, which happens if the nozzle catches a warped part of the print and the magnets are not strong enough to hold the print sheet. For this here’s my solution (others have added more magnets): Magnetic print sheet fixation - #10 by Hauke
And here is some last remark (sorry for triple-reply ): As much as I love my Snapmaker 2.0, you will IMHO never reach the point it gives you the same reliability that Bambu achieved with their printers (which is an impressive achievement of them!). So if you are really only up for 3D printing, and the 3-in-1 of the Snapmaker 2.0 is not what you bought the machine for - sad as I am to say this - you indeed might be better off with the Bambu printers. Potentially also with the Snapmaker U1, but this remains to be seen when it is out in the wild in numbers. First reviews are quite positive.
I’m experiencing the same issues with the dual extruder. I’ve been using it for about ten months and have spent hundreds of hours attempting to achieve a consistently high-quality print, without success. I’ve tried several filament brands, including Snapmaker, Sunlu, Polymaker, and Overturn, as well as different slicers such as Luban, Orca, and Cura.
I’ve attached a photo showing issue I’ve encountered, where the filament binds up during printing. This has occurred with PLA, TPU, and PVA. The attached image shows TPU at the point where it exits, but with PLA and PVA, the jams occur internally. On one occasion, the PLA was so tightly bound that I had to carefully use a torch lighter to slightly melt it in order to remove it from the gears. For reference, I have also tried drying the filaments to rule out moisture as a cause and even changing the hot ends out. This maybe caused when the nozzle bottoms out on a high spot.
A few possible contributing factors include the inability to properly calibrate using an 11x11 mesh (even when sending gcode manually) and the dual extruder pressing down on the bed during auto-calibration. This pressure can cause the bed to flex down or the nozzle to press into the Snapmaker print sheet, resulting in inaccurate leveling. Additionally, there hasn’t been a firmware update for the Snapmaker 2.0 since July 2024, so it’s unclear when a fix might become available.
my issues with this stemmed from a bad part. after the gear the filament slides into a tube. on one of my extruders this tube freely moved up and down that extruder always failed. the other extruder with this part solidly in place worked fine
I have a snapmaker 2.0 A350 and have had nothing but troubles with it and never use it because I’m sick of all the issues that seem to happen, there’s always something going wrong with it. I also have a prusa mk3.9, a prusa mk4s and a Bambu H2D and never have the troubles I had with the snapmaker they all just work and you don’t have to pray that a 7 day print wont just stop printing and fail at 99% for no reason. my favourite would be the bambu it’s a very nice printer.
if you’ve had enough and want something that just works every time and you still want some of the 3 in 1 features of the snapmaker 2.0, i would recommend the Bambu H2D which can be purchased with laser, cutter(which can cut vinyl stickers) and drawing attachment(that allows you to use markers to draw with), And it has a dual nozzle for 2 colour printing and can even do upto 20 colour prints with 4 ams units if you want to go crazy. it doesn’t do cnc cutting but you would be better off getting a separate dedicated benchtop machine for that anyway. the bed size isn’t quite as big as a snapmaker 2.0 A350 but it’s still plenty big enough.
or you could wait for the Bambu H2C which is the same as the H2D but with 5 tool changer print heads for even better multi coloured prints, and I’m pretty sure it also works with the laser and cutter etc. as well.
i really like what snapmaker was trying to do with the 2.0 machines but unfortunately it just seems to be a very difficult printer, i really want to say good things about them and be able to recommend their machines but I’ve just had nothing but troubles with mine and never had any issues with all the other printer brands i have, yes there are work arounds and third party mods but i shouldn’t have to do that, it’s 2025(i know 2.0 is older but still) printers should just work from the start.
Do the 11 x 11 calibration. Run a single layer print across all the bed. Where it does not adhere well, insert a shim underneath. I used aluminium foil. This is much easier with the quick change bed as you only need to do it once.
I own the artisan, and I’m the principals remain the same, fom my experience, before you throw in the towel, l strongly suggest if you have clean down the board very well with isopropyl 90%. Then auto calibrate z axis not manual, then set print board to 65 then turn down to around 55/57, once it’s printed a good ground foundation around 3/4mm.
Heat will curle the corners. Let me know how U go. Hope it works out.
If anyone in the UK wants to part with their dual extruder (sell), or swap / long-term-loan for a laser attachment or rotary extension, I’d be interested in trying it out.
Especially interested in larger nozzle (0.6+) and hardened versions.
And I’d agree that the Bambu H2D is probably leaps and bounds ahead of these older 3-in-1’s, and having single purpose machines will always be even better, but generally it’s the software and self calibration / adjustment + compensation that makes the difference (think accelerometers and associated algorithms, load sensors for nozzle back pressure / filament, bed height detection, camera assisted calibration, filament specific optimisation using above features, and fail detection).
Oh and if you’re really struggling with adhesion and don’t want to have to try, clean the bed with Iso-Propanol Alcohol (IPA at 70-99%), then buy a can of DimaFix, and follow the instructions on the can.
Basically apply to clean bed when below some temp (maybe <45c) and then spray it, a reasonable application (don’t use too little nor waste too much) and then just print straight away at above 50c bed temp or turn off bed ready for next use.
It’s activated in grippy mode above 50c, and then once the bed cools below 50c it lets go.
That’ll normally do you for any tricky prints (small contact surface area or when using edges of bed), and lasts loads of prints for me (I forget to clean it and that it’s there until months later when something else fails and I realise my bed is filthy - open-air in a garage).
): As much as I love my Snapmaker 2.0, you will IMHO never reach the point it gives you the same reliability that Bambu achieved with their printers (which is an impressive achievement of them!). So if you are really only up for 3D printing, and the 3-in-1 of the Snapmaker 2.0 is not what you bought the machine for - sad as I am to say this - you indeed might be better off with the Bambu printers. Potentially also with the Snapmaker U1, but this remains to be seen when it is out in the wild in numbers. First reviews are quite positive.
