I’ve spent two days now calibrating, testing, recalibrating and retesting. I’ve change the filament, the print bed recalibrated every setting and I cannot get a successful print. On my latest attempt at the xy test print, the left printhead carved up my build plate. I’m using 1.15.21. The old extruder works fine, but the dual is not capable of even calibrating properly. Aside from the wasted time and filament, I’m really not impressed that now I need a new build plate.
Any suggestions or am I working with a dysfunctional extruder module?
Your carved buildplate should be discusses with support@snapmaker.com or over zendesk.
Did your machine and extruders home correctly before starting all procedure? - The right hotend itself should do a leveling move and then rise up to be out of the way while extruder left is in process.
Whats your extruder offsets on the touchscreen? (I use - 0.3mm on both) You can access this while printing the calibration.
I disassembled and reassembled my A350 today with new actuators, new power supply, and the new dual extrusion head that arrived yesterday. I’m 99% sure everything was installed and connected correctly, (y, x, and z) and when I attempt to start the calibration the head is hanging off the front of the bed for the first two points and then on the third point it drops down and actually flexes the build plate before erroring out and stopping. I’m pretty sure I have the latest firmware installed.
I’m afraid I’m going to break something at this point and I can’t figure out why it doesn’t seem to recognize the actuator limits.
I have had exactly the same experience with my brand new dual extruder. I have also wasted two days double checking the calibrations and testing. I am so disappointed as everything has worked perfectly prior to this ‘upgrade’. I am very disappointed. I have asked for my money back, I have my fingers crossed.
Roger
Sorry to say you have to forget the auto calibration and luban.
Download cura or prusa. Set up your machine.
Use a downloaded offset calibration file like the one from snapmaker.
Print and then manually adjust in the machine settings in your slicer program.
Then a bi-color cube (i used the ones in “calibration shapes in cura”) and trial error measure and repeat till you get what you want.
I have the offset error between two materials down to less than .01mm currently but you have to do it manual.
Do you know how to install the new dual extruder profile into Cura? My Cura still only allows the Snapmaker 2.0 to have a single extruder and I’m unable to add the 2nd.
I’ve seen a few GitHub links, but not sure how to add the files into cura after I’ve downloaded them.
Cura allows you the manually type in the nozzle tip distance under the nozzle offset in the second extruder setup card.
Luban dosent have that data input.section.
A few other posts talk about it.
Yes at this point in time there is no “offical” profile. You need to make a custom. Copy all the settings from the offical one. But add the second extrudet. On the forms here is one that has a good write up on the changes. Avaliable Bed size changes because of the different printer head geometry. Start and stop g-code needs a little tweek also.
People have gotten it to work quite well with a little work and testing.
If you want to wait for luban go a head i was answering how to do something not forcing you to do it.
The machine has a ton of potential but anything snapmaker dose will only get.you 90% of what the machine can do.
After dropping the firmware to a much older version and then re-updating to the latest, I was able to print the test prints and two small files. I sent a larger file from luban and came back and the print head had dug into the build plate and destroyed itself.
I am hoping that Snapmaker stands behind this and replaces this obviously non-functioning module.
How’d you get it to do that? Can you show us the ‘dug into the bed’? What version of Luban are you using? What did your calibration print look like? Can you show us what the initial layers looked like?
It’s not possible for the machine to ‘dig itself into the bed’ after you start the print. It’s going to do that initally, or it’s not. Looks like it built a helluva blob. How long did you leave it alone?
i have had this exact same experience. i went from single extruder working great and reliably on anything to massive frustration and an overwhelming fear that i paid 450 bucks for a lead weight!
I have spent the consummate 2 days calibrating and wasting print material. both brand new right out of the box. first i attempted to follow the wizard, which was useless. it does the “auto z calibration” which ends up failing miserably. It does not get close enough to the table for the pressure to allow the print to slick to whatever is below it. massive spaghetti all over the place. So, i punted and went to manual.
this time, black (on left) works great. White break away that came with it, does not work at all. it either doesnt extrude enough material or isnt lining up right. Anyway, attached are the latest test print of the calibrated xy and z. notice white is in and out and the white square in the middle is so thin its like less than paper thin. so the black arrow has nothing to bring on. the white arrows on side from right extruder dont even come out.
unless someone has a way to fix this and show it actually works, i believe i have a faulty head. simply because it feels like the heads are not at the right temp when called on to print. im not sure if this is a design flaw because they have to switch between the two heads so as not to overload the cable and wattage, but something is not lining up right here. and if i have to invoke voodoo and magic to make it work, its not ready for prime time.
Its all fixable, wasn’t ready for release yes. but its fixable. Drop the auto calibrations, go back to temp towers and manual calibration. You’ll get it to work and when it dose its a really decent dual head unit.
yes, i did go back to manual calibration. thats how i even got this far. now i just cant get the right nozzle (white) to extrude reliable.
you say temp towers? please explain. because i cant even get the test calibration print to come out correctly. as far as i know, there is no way to change temps here.
you just blindly accept the results of the auto calibrations and then use cura or prusa and their calibration towers and shapes.
the auto calibrations in the firmware have the temps all wrong. its really full of bugs. you need to take manual control to get it dialed in.
Luban is a loss cause really, and the auto calibrations are hit or miss. Also they will never be as accurate as doing manual calibrations with measurable models, not just lining stuff up by eye.
Luban is okay if all your doing is printing with support or simple standalone items. But if you want to print mechanical stuff you really need to use cura / prusa.
You can 1 wait for snapmaker to update and fix there stuff.
Or learn cura / prusa and use the actually really decent hardware the way it was supposed to be used.
I started with luban and really tried to get everything to work in the snapmaker ecosystem and im sorry to say you need to change to really let the machine do what it can do.
And just because probably the most referenced link on this whole forum
thanks for the in depth info. I still feel like much of it is over my head, but thats prob because i havent gotten into prusa yet. i downloaded it and have not installed or taken for a ride yet. sounds like i need to.
I guess my frustration lies in the fact that even with manual z axis calibration, and finally getting the xy pattern to print correctly, when i run the built in calibration model proof, it fails as in the photo above. has ANYONE gotten this built in test to actually work? Luban and prusa have no stake in the game if we are talking about the built in models.
So, I guess I would like th ebest of both worlds. if I have to go to prusa, yes, it may be better for me in the long run…however, I paid 450 for this dual head with the express idea i would be able to print water soluable break away supports and make life easier. In the end, YES, I want SnapMaker to fix this stuff. this is ridiculous.
The default firmware temps are wrong. So most firmware built in models have only a 50-50 chance.
Yeah you expect plug and play. But to honestly get that you need to step up to the 10k class printers.
It sucks but it is what it is. As soon as you can get past the “i paid x for this” im mad. And learn how to talk to machine. Via cura prusa g-code. The sooner youll be getting good prints.
Im on the dual head have been printing 90% of the last two weeks for work. 1 failure my fault on first layer. Needed to ipa clean it.
Overall dim accuracy i have
X +/- .05mm
Y < +/- .05mm
Z +/- .1mm
Inter layer offset is down to un-measureable but can feel with your fingernail.
So the machine can do it but IT IS NOT EVEN CLOSE to plug and play
You know, I’ve been thinking about what you asked…if anyone had gotten the built-in model to work…
If we all have the same Luban with the same Snapmaker supplied PLA (Black and the White-breakaway) and we’re all getting the same results I would be willing to bet that Snapmaker hasn’t gotten it to work reliably either. And it’s pretty strange that they haven’t surfaced and provided guidance or a workaround or even an updated firmware/software revision to address what we ALL are separately, but also collectively, having problems with.
Does anybody else’s right side extruder make an occasional clicking noise when loading filament? Sounds like a light grinding or clicking like every 3-4 seconds?
