Releveled the bed to print and the front right and back right corners warped up and lines on the right side. Changed orientation and same spots - same issues. I’ve tried two different colors of filament. Redid esteps and I can’t figure out what the issue is?
I’ve tried changing bed temperature, print temperature, closed the enclosure with the fan on and off, doors open with fan on and off. There are no vents in this room to get a draft.
My last attempt I put painters tape down and although it held down the corners they still look warped and it is still showing lines. I have tried printing from 190-205 and nothing helps.
The only thing I did notice is that when I turned off the fan and closed the enclosure the warping was on all 4 corners and it smooshed the design down?
Is it possible the thermostat is bad? I have no other guesses as to what the issue could be?
I already contacted support and only got - update the software/firmware. Already did that - no change.
Just to make sure I am reading your post right, the slant shown in the pictures goes from side to side, not front to back? Basically, I am wondering if your machine is out of tram, which means that the x-axis is tilted which might cause this issue. Especially since the difference is huge from one side to the other. I would suggest tramming this axis as shown by brent here. A note on this is that you can use soda cans instead of the blocks he used as their tolerances tend to be pretty tight.
Quick outline of the steps:
Turn off machine
Put cans/blocks on the base plate under both sides of the x-axis
Physically pull/push the x-axis down to rest on the blocks/cans
Turn on the machine (to lock the axis in place)
Swap the blocks/cans with each other. If they slide under both sides with relative ease, then the tolerances were good enough for this process and you are finished
If you are sitting in front of the machine , it’s on the right side going back. So front to back. Which is strange bc it’s only doing it on the right side and does which affects the front corner and back corner. It never did this before so I don’t know why it started all of the sudden with the new print head and only on the right side.
Again, to make sure I am on the same page, is the front right corner higher/lower than the back right corner? Or is the right edge as a whole higher than the left edge?
The left side of the square looks perfect. The right side shows lines along the middle and the corners of the right side (front and back) lift up. The right corner shows almost a bubbling on the right side rear where the corner smooshed up
Those extra pictures are very helpful. Have you noticed anything off with the first layer or two? Perhaps it is not sticking well and as such curls at the beginning, only getting worse over time?
The first layer of the print is wrapping, and this is a common issue of 3D printing.
You can also try including a brim or a raft with your print. These features will help hold the edges down and may warp less, since they are typically only a few layers tall. If you want to learn more about these options, please read our tutorial on Rafts, Skirts and Brims.
I did a raft and I thought it was the first layer hence the tape on the last one - however the right side still has lines and the back right corner has this weird bubbling looking thing.
The first layer looks good actually - however as the layers get put down those two corners start to lift and get worse as it goes. When I used the tape to have it adhere to the bed the corners stayed - however the right side still has the lines but the left looks pretty much perfect.
Would it be possible for you to share your slicer settings and your filament information? Your pictures look like there is poor first layer adhesion causing the print to warp, though I’m not sure why this would only happen after switching heads.
Did you use this filament before without issues? Did the same print turn out right with the previous head? If you didn’t try this with the last head maybe try a print that you did with the last head and see what happens? Would you be able to share the model and GCode?
Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get as much information as possible to try to fix your issue.
I’m using Laban - I’ve tried fast print and I’ve adjusted the retraction. I haven’t been able to run a retraction test with this filament but did with the red.
The white is hatchbox PLA - I’m switching back to the metal bed as at least I was getting corner adhesion.
This is the first time using the white however I have used the red and black previously with no problems. I’m out of the snapmaker black but plan to use another black o have to rest it again.
Yes I plan on doing that today once I level the metal bed again. Not sure why the calibration is always different but it’s driving me batty.
Yes I’ll share the gcode for that particular design (it was something my daughter needed for school) that I created. I’ll get to a computer an upload the gcode. Thanks for trying to help
I did lower the bed temperature to 65 - that didn’t do anything.
The first one I printed on the metal bed didn’t have any bridging issues and was mostly successful (if you consider how bad the others looked) - just the side layers looked bad.
