Yes above - last resort I used red tape and I got the corners to stick but the right side layer still looks bad which makes no sense bc the left side looks great.
Yes tried using the enclosure fan and I tried a desk fan that I tried in a million positions and that didn’t help with the layers.
I too am wondering if the temperature is not correct. I need to find my husbands heat fun to see if I can see anything obvious.
Once I get the metal bed leveled again (as at least it sticks better to that bed) - worst case I’ll add some glue stick. I just don’t understand why one side is printing weird.
Ok I got the metal bed almost perfectly leveled. Changed filament to a heat color changing filament so I could see if it was cooling anywhere.
I rechecked the esteps, ran another temperature tower, ran another retraction tower and did k value for the first time.
It came out a lot better. 200/70 - however still have some elephant foot on the right side. I’ve calibrated the bed enough times that I touch the bed often when it’s 70. I was touching it while it was printing and it felt much hotter. Once I dig out my husbands heat sensor I’m going to double check the bed. I turned on an external fan on at the top layer right before bridging (no layer separations) - next time I’ll turn it on after the first few layers and see if I can get it a little smoother. I’m also going to lower the bed temperature significantly as well to see if that helps with the elephant foot. I also think I’ll turn the fan on high when it’s creating the bridge as I had a small dip on each side.
Wow, that’s a cool filament, and smart using that to look for temperature differentials. If you feel like trying a new slicer, cura has a setting that you can use to try to reduce elephant’s foot (so do other slicers but I only have experience with cura). Unfortunately Luban does not, but that makes sense as it’s intended as a jumping off point for those just getting started. You can also check out this youtube video from Maker’s Muse for other methods of dealing with elephant’s foot as well.
I would be careful with lowering the bed temperature too much as that can make the first layer not adhere as well.
As mentioned before, turning that model on its side would mean that you don’t have to do bridging at all, but it seems like you have managed to calibrate well enough that bridges print well which is good.
Just to give people an idea of cooling - no fan used on this one and you can see the left side (which is my smoothest) has the most cooling. I did this one on 60/50 bed and layers were worse on the right but the elephant foot is almost gone.
I’m going to turn on the fan (my desk fan) on the right side after the first few initial layers snd see if that helps. Turning temp to 60/60
I did try 60/50 and the side on the right is still not as nice as the left.
I just did 60/60 with an additional fan on the right side and didn’t see much change.
However snapmaker support gave me the code to turn the fan off at the beginning but I decided to keep it off bc like I thought may part of the issue - the new cooling fan was not helping.
As you can see in my above pictures it doesn’t cool evenly - this is apparently the issue. I’m not super code savvy but can figure out most things.
I entered the code and then hit play - however my computer went to sleep - which I assume is why it had stopped?
So my new question do I have to do this code every time or do I have to edit the gcode and enter it somewhere before saving it and sending to the machine?
Attached are the fan off of the 3D print head - so I think my title is appropriate - but thanks for the suggestion.
To do what you describe, the gcode file would have to not turn on the printhead fan. You can do this by editing the gcode, but it would be easier to do it in slicer settings. I don’t think you can do it in Luban, but other slicers tend to have an option for fan speed.
The only airflow of any kind I feel is from the bottom vents. The right and front vents don’t feel like any air is coming out and looking at the picture it looks like those vents take in air and not push them out?
The right side is where I show the issues. I’ve turned the model as well and it’s always on the right side.
No air is felt on the right - I only feel air on the left side only. I didn’t have this issue with the old print head and my print above is a color changing filament that turns orange when it cools. This shows how the cooling is indeed not even.
