Redesigned print head issues?

Yes above - last resort I used red tape and I got the corners to stick but the right side layer still looks bad which makes no sense bc the left side looks great.

Yes tried using the enclosure fan and I tried a desk fan that I tried in a million positions and that didn’t help with the layers.

I too am wondering if the temperature is not correct. I need to find my husbands heat fun to see if I can see anything obvious.

Once I get the metal bed leveled again (as at least it sticks better to that bed) - worst case I’ll add some glue stick. I just don’t understand why one side is printing weird.

Ok I got the metal bed almost perfectly leveled. Changed filament to a heat color changing filament so I could see if it was cooling anywhere.

I rechecked the esteps, ran another temperature tower, ran another retraction tower and did k value for the first time.

It came out a lot better. 200/70 - however still have some elephant foot on the right side. I’ve calibrated the bed enough times that I touch the bed often when it’s 70. I was touching it while it was printing and it felt much hotter. Once I dig out my husbands heat sensor I’m going to double check the bed. I turned on an external fan on at the top layer right before bridging (no layer separations) - next time I’ll turn it on after the first few layers and see if I can get it a little smoother. I’m also going to lower the bed temperature significantly as well to see if that helps with the elephant foot. I also think I’ll turn the fan on high when it’s creating the bridge as I had a small dip on each side.

Wow, that’s a cool filament, and smart using that to look for temperature differentials. If you feel like trying a new slicer, cura has a setting that you can use to try to reduce elephant’s foot (so do other slicers but I only have experience with cura). Unfortunately Luban does not, but that makes sense as it’s intended as a jumping off point for those just getting started. You can also check out this youtube video from Maker’s Muse for other methods of dealing with elephant’s foot as well.

I would be careful with lowering the bed temperature too much as that can make the first layer not adhere as well.

As mentioned before, turning that model on its side would mean that you don’t have to do bridging at all, but it seems like you have managed to calibrate well enough that bridges print well which is good.

Yes I plan on trying that next as well - I didn’t want to change too many things at once. This way I can narrow down the issues.

I do have Cura downloaded - I just need to dig in and try it. However I thought I’d start with simple Luban first to get the basics down.

I’ll update if I discover any other things causing my issues.

Just to give people an idea of cooling - no fan used on this one and you can see the left side (which is my smoothest) has the most cooling. I did this one on 60/50 bed and layers were worse on the right but the elephant foot is almost gone.

I’m going to turn on the fan (my desk fan) on the right side after the first few initial layers snd see if that helps. Turning temp to 60/60

I’ve read to the end of this thread and see that you finally dropped the bed down to an appropriate temperature, 60°C or lower. For PLA, 60°C is good for the first layer, and 50°C is good for all subsequent layers. When the heated bed is too hot for PLA, the print will start to separate from the bed once you get to around layer 3 or 4 of the print, which is what you are showing.

If you ever see the print separating itself from the bed prior to completion, you should immediately abort it. It is not possible to recover from this, it will only get worse, and you’re just wasting filament at that point. With PLA, never set the bed above 60°C, unless the specifications of the filament call for it.

P.S. It would be a good idea to change the title of this thread, as this is not a print head issue.

I did try 60/50 and the side on the right is still not as nice as the left.

I just did 60/60 with an additional fan on the right side and didn’t see much change.

However snapmaker support gave me the code to turn the fan off at the beginning but I decided to keep it off bc like I thought may part of the issue - the new cooling fan was not helping.

As you can see in my above pictures it doesn’t cool evenly - this is apparently the issue. I’m not super code savvy but can figure out most things.

I entered the code and then hit play - however my computer went to sleep - which I assume is why it had stopped?

So my new question do I have to do this code every time or do I have to edit the gcode and enter it somewhere before saving it and sending to the machine?

Attached are the fan off of the 3D print head - so I think my title is appropriate - but thanks for the suggestion.

To do what you describe, the gcode file would have to not turn on the printhead fan. You can do this by editing the gcode, but it would be easier to do it in slicer settings. I don’t think you can do it in Luban, but other slicers tend to have an option for fan speed.

Ok thank you - I appreciate it

Can you take a picture of the newly redesigned print head, from the bottom with a clear view of the hot end and both vents? Is the air flow from each vent equal? If not, give a guesstimate of their difference.

PLA requires 100% cooling from layer 2 on. Layer 1 can be printed w/o cooling if you are having some weird kind of sticking issue, but it must be cooled for all subsequent layers.

The 3D Printer portion of Luban is an old blackbox version of Cura. The fan setting appears to be tied to the filament, so I don’t know what GCode they gave, nor do I know the instructions that they gave you. You would need to add it every time you create GCode, if that is what you are asking. Only 1 fan speed setting can prevail. The fan must be 100% for PLA, so do with that as you may.

Unfortunately the new 3D toolhead only has one part cooling vent

@Edwin is this true? If so, then there is no possible way to properly cool prints that need cooling. Cooling must come from at least 2 sides, preferably opposite each other.

Here are the pictures from snapmaker

Also if you put your hand near it - you only feel air from the bottom left vents.

Ok, I didn’t think they removed the vents from one side. So you’re saying that the vents on the right are not seeing any air flow? Or the air flow is extremely low? And that is the side of the print where you are seeing warping?

Could you check to see that nothing is blocking the air flow on the right side? It looks like the exact same ducting system that the first gen uses, but the air is coming in from the front, so it should be working.

The only airflow of any kind I feel is from the bottom vents. The right and front vents don’t feel like any air is coming out and looking at the picture it looks like those vents take in air and not push them out?

The right side is where I show the issues. I’ve turned the model as well and it’s always on the right side.

There is no right side vent hole

Apparently I suck at attaching pictures, and the one I want to attach is too big. Sigh.

Those are the only part cooling vents, the ones on the bottom. If air is coming out of the left and right sides fairly evenly, then they are working correctly.

That is not true. That green arrow at the bottom left slant is the left part cooling duct. The right part cooling duct is directly opposite, in front. The small block on the bottom right back is the Z-offset sensor.

It is true.

See attached

The block of plastic on the right is solid. No air can escape that way.

Either I have a duff module, or there is no part cooling from the right side.

For comparison, here is the right side of the old module:

No air is felt on the right - I only feel air on the left side only. I didn’t have this issue with the old print head and my print above is a color changing filament that turns orange when it cools. This shows how the cooling is indeed not even.

@Edwin is this correct? Or is it a manufacturing defect? If they were to open a slit on the bottom left of the block, would air flow?