So I’ve had my SM2.0 A350 for a while now and have successfully used all 3 modules. I recently printed about 100 parts for a clock that I’m building. I switched to laser to engrave some stuff and then switched back to printer. Since switching back I have been unable to get anything to print.
I’ve gone through the forms and saw a bunch of posts by @Tone and @parachvte regarding bed leveling and what not but I can’t seem to get consistent results. Most recently I performed a heated calibration on the machine. For giggles, I looked at the numbers in Bed Visualizer and noticed that I have up to 1.5mm deviation in two of the corners. I then went to TechingTech and downloaded a first layer print. Got the first layer to look awesome in the center but too close on the out 4 corners. In order to get this, I had to adjust the Z-offset to about +0.10.
Since I was getting decent adhesion in the center of the bed, I thought I’d proceed with the baseline print since it’s printed dead center. I go to run this print using the same settings as the first layer (and same Z-offset) and the first layer won’t event print correctly. It’s lifting in the front left corner. I’m very confused as to why the first layer would like fine (at least in the center) and then I can’t print a box in the exact same spot two minutes later.
Are the corners that were out by 1.5mm on the same side? For that specifically, your x-axis could be out of tram. As for lifting in the center, what do you use as your bed temperature?
@bobby4718, So the corners that were out by 1.5mm are opposite the failing corner. The failing corner is out by about .5mm though. The bed temp is 70C for PLA.
@sdj544, yes I’m using the flat head screws (all 26 or whatever there is). The lifting area seems to only be on one side so I will look at tramming the X axis.
I had surprisingly strong print adhesion issues with fine, basically invisible dust on the print sheet after not using it for a few weeks. Use dish washing soap and clean your print sheet.
As for the bent corners: 1.5 mm is harsh and a lot. Did you perchance watch the bed leveling data before you switched to laser? Was it as bad? I mean as long as it is a smooth bend, I’d say autoleveling should be able to compensate. For me my deviation across the print sheet is “only” 0.6 mm, but it is bumpy and uneven, the calibration being unable to compensate unless I do a 11x11 mesh. So not only the absolute amount, but also the uneveness play a role.
So I have cleaned it using alcohol and water but haven’t “scrubbed” it. I currently have tape on the top so that wouldn’t bode well.
Unfortunately I didn’t check before switching to the laser as I didn’t know it wouldn’t work when I came back.
It seems pretty even in the 5x5 grid I did and I did an 11x11 not too long ago and got the same results but just more bad points. My system is still not maintaining the bed temperature when I send the G1029 command. It is available on the touch screen but when I try to send it via Octoprint, it turns off the heating.
I haven’t had a chance to tram but have been reading @Tone 's post about Bed leveling along with purchasing an indicator and printing a mount at work. Luckily I have that option as printing the mount on MY printer would not currently be an option
At the moment, G1029 still disables all heaters in the released firmware, though this was recently changed on github so it looks like the heaters will be able to stay on during leveling in the next firmware release.
Now looking at your plot, I’m not sure tramming is your issue, but is an easy enough step to try to see if it helps any. I’ll have to defer to the others for other troubleshooting steps, they are a bit more experienced than I am.
So I followed the CheckLevel Hot post and did that process. It took two shots to get there which isn’t that bad in my opinion but I’m happy to say I’ve been printing nicely ever since. Changed materials and everything. Now we’ll see how it works out when I have to shut the machine down. Thanks for the help.
Perhaps also still interesting,
as I have reported elsewhere, the heating bed with the screws only tighten when the heating bed has reached the temperature to avoid tension.
So you may not have quite so bad values I heat PLA max with 50 degrees that is quite enough and it sticks super.
So if I want to print I go as follows:
print module mount and connect.
lay the heating bed on the base plate and put all the Screw in easily.
connect the heating bed
switch on the machine and heat the heating bed to 50 degrees.
only now I tighten the screws of the heating bed on the base plate, then the magnetic pressure plate is put on.
That’s a good idea and the next time I swap my bed out I will definitely try that. Everything seems to be working good now but I plan to switch to CNC soon so when I switch back I will try what you suggested to see if that gets me at a better starting point overall.
