Got my SM2 A350T yesterday and started with a make that came with the Luban software. I chose the Vase as my first make.
Cannot seem to get past the first layers, as it seems to lift off and then the nozzle drags it around the shape.
I know there are probably a million reasons is not working, but thought by using a make that came with the software I might have more success.
What settings should I be look at to change please.
I recommend xchrisd’s 3D Print Guide. It starts out fairly non-technical, but dives in pretty deep. Feel free to skip over sections you’re not comfortable with now, and come back later when you’re more experienced.
First layer adhesion can be a couple of different things. You appear to be underextruding a bit (the first layer should be a continuous sheet of plastic, with minimal ridges. Your first layer appears to be a bunch of strings laid side by side, so I’d like to see wider strings that join together).
But that could also just be a calibration problem, and the nozzle is too high off the bed. The recommendation I’ve heard is to warm up the bed, and calibrate with the highest number of points available.
You might also check out flat your bed is. Get a straight edge and a flashlight. Put the straight edge on the bed, edge down, and shine a flashlight from behind towards you. Look for any light escaping under the straight edge – that part isn’t flat. For major gaps, try to flatten the bed by adjusting the mounting screws. This will also give you an idea of how many calibration points you need. If the bed is very wavy, more points. If everything is pretty much perfect, fewer points are needed (even if the bed is straight, that doesn’t mean it’s parallel to the base plate).
You shouldn’t need to modify any of the Luban parameters yet. The included Vase ought to print once you have a good extrusion and calibration.
Lastly, welcome! A failed print is pretty much everybody’s first rite of passage.
Thank you so much for your great reply. I chuckled at the “rite of passage” bit, yes it does feel like that at the moment.
I will try another calibration with heated bed (more points) and go through the suggestions on the 3D print guide.
While I have a decent amount of 3d printing experience, it’s on other machines. I’ve gotten good prints out of the snapmaker, but it’s mostly a backup or needed large machine.
However, a good point would be as @clewis said, redo the calibration with more points, and look over the guide. Make sure your bed is clean as well! Fingerprints are death to adhesion, so some 90% IPA on a papertowel and wipedown of the bed can help a lot. Personally, I’ve never used the buildtak clone surface that comes with the machine (or in general on any machine), I have a PEI sheet I ordered so my maintenance is similar to my Prusa machines. I will say, it doesn’t quite look like underextrusion, just maybe too far off the bed and not squished down enough. It can have a similar effect with gaps between the lines and bad adhesion. One thing to keep in mind, is the PLA that snapmaker includes is kind of bad… even a cheap roll from Amazon can give better results.
It may seem overwhelming, but you’ll get it quickly. We’re all here to help, and when you move to the other disciplines, that’s where I can really help. ;p I use the laser a lot and have written guides on many of the other functions. You’ll be making awesome stuff in no time.
Thank you for your great reply. Turns out I had a physical issue with the 3D head.
Resolved with a WTF moment
Found the culprit, not software or temperature or calibration issue, but a physical issue.
Did several more calibrations and on one of them the head crashed into the bed, turns out the dangly thing (no idea what it is) at the back of the head was way too low and that was what was catching on the builds and dragging them around the bed.
When the head crashed into the bed, it actually pushed that bit up back into the head and the next build WORKED
I am SO relieved. I was beginning to question my choice of purchase.
But, how frustrating that for such an expensive machine this bit on the 3D head was obviously not quality controlled properly.
As a newbie to 3D printing I had no idea that the head was not built properly out of the box.
That’s the bed sensor, there was an issue for awhile that they were installed too high or too low. It should be about 1-1.5mm higher than the tip of the nozzle. Glad to see you getting a finished print.
Thank you, I am just so pleased it is sorted and I can now get on with printing stuff