Day 2 - Not Great, Adhesion & Separation

After some good advice yesterday I did the following.

Cleaned the bed with ISO alcohol.

Recalibrated with a 5x Grid on a Heated bed.

I thought I would try a very small make so I wouldn’t have to wait too long. I found a Sewing Machine Bobbin Clip on Thingiverse.

In Luban I duplicated it and separated them from being too close, so I had two on the bed.

Run 1 - Skirt - No adhesion, stopped making after 4%, just a mess.

Run 2 - Brim - Despite the models looking separate in Luban, it made a wall between them when printing. One model detached half way up the build, the other had a deformed wall and layer detachment.

I still appear to have separate strings of filament instead of a solid piece of plastic.

No material mentioned? Variables temperature, z-axis, flow …

Hey, you calibrated your bed too loose, now you have to recalibrate or set the z offset very small, i guess - 0,3mm.
Your layer lines are not connecting together, this has to be a full connected layer.

Btw you could discuss in your first thread because its a similar problem :point_down:

I am following the instructions in the manual to perform the calibration. So I end up with the wrinkled calibration card like the picture in the manual. Is there something more I should be doing? The difference in todays calibration was the increase in no. of points to the max of 5x (instead of the default 3 x) and to heat the bed for the calibration.

Apologies, as my post title said, this is Day 2 of ownership, so I am a complete beginner.
Material PLA Black (came with the Snapmaker A350T bundle)
Bed 70ºC
Nozzle 205ºC

Sorry I have no idea what the flow was or how to find it.

Please make some pictures of your machine to get sure it is right assembled.

Have you tried to print with this live z offset?
You could adjust it on the touchscreen while or right before printing.

Resolved with a WTF moment

Found the culprit, not software or temperature or calibration issue, but a physical issue.

Did several more calibrations and on one of them the head crashed into the bed, turns out the dangly thing (no idea what it is) at the back of the head was way too low and that was what was catching on the builds and dragging them around the bed.

When the head crashed into the bed, it actually pushed that bit up back into the head and the next build WORKED :clap:t2:

I am SO relieved. I was beginning to question my choice of purchase.

But, how frustrating that for such an expensive machine this bit on the 3D head was obviously not quality controlled properly.

As a newbie to 3D printing I had no idea that the head was not built properly out of the box.

That “dangly thing” is the proximity sensor for bed levelling, and it has a screw at the toolhead back to fixate it. Before you just tighten that screw, make sure you calibrated it - it’s simple - follow steps 6.3 to 6.7 in this document: The photo is slightly misleading - the nozzle needs to just touch the print bed while the credit card holds the proximity sensor ~1mm above the bed.

You should also understand that calibration is a starting point. It gets you close to where you should be, but then you still need to watch the first layer and adjust accordingly.

Nozzle temp is also something that needs to be played with.

BTW, Did you calibrate the extruder/e-steps?


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Excuse me I am also newbie here as well as 3D printing world,
I also own an A350T, could you tell more about the “culprit”, as sometimes I also face the calibration problem.
do you mean the gangly thing (as they said the sensor) was too loose, after a crash it goes back to where it should be and everything resume normal?

As a newbie I didn’t realise that on my A350T “The Culprit” in my photo was hanging too low out of the print head, meaning that it was touching/dragging the filament as the head moved. So as fast as the nozzle was laying down filament “The Culprit” was catching it and dragging it around the bed.

I did not know this was the cause and was trying to find the solution with calibration and bed/nozzle temperatures. Those were not changing anything for me as it issue was physical. On one of the many calibrations I did, that part was hanging down so low that it crashed into the bed, and the act of crashing into the bed forced that bit back up into the head resulting in it being high enough to now drag across the filament. Today I will do adjust that part properly and make sure the screw is tight that holds that part in position.

Had it not crashed into the bed during a calibration I am not sure I would have known what the issue was. Luckily I only had two days of frustration and ruined makes before finding out what was wrong. :nerd_face: Good luck.

My last resort, however, was manual calibration, at least it could print anyway. :face_with_monocle: