First print failure

1

Hey, I set up my A350 following the instructions to the letter. Did full calibration and used the included card to get the perfect height of the 3D print nozzle. I used the software and sent the vase file from my PC to my machine. I started the print which said it’s be complete in 3.5 hours.

When I returned, All there was was an extremely thin layer of filament, or perhaps a burn mark, in a circle. No vase. And the screen said it was 100% complete. Obviously something went horribly wrong. Anyone have insight to this? Thanks. I’m hoping my print tray isn’t burned beyond use before I ever got to use it… I took a photo but not sure if I can upload it here. image

2

First off - congrats! Believe it or not, that’s pretty good, in my opinion. I’ve been 3D printing for a couple of years, and the one thing I tell all my friends getting started: 3D printing is super finicky. You have to get dozens of parameters right: print speed, bed/nozzle temp, ambient humidity, filament density, k values, extruder calibration, z hopping…oh man.

This is my second 3D printer, and I didn’t even get as far as you did on my first shot - so seriously, you’re off to a great start!

It looks like you did get one layer of filament down, and your bed looks fine. (Even if it does get scratched or dented, you can still print on it - but let’s deal with that when we have to.)

First, clean your build plate. Try scraping that off with the palette knife provided. If it’s stuck too good, then first use the touchscreen to heat the bed to its default, let it soften up the filament, and try again. Try not to gouge the print bed with the palette knife - take your time, let the heat do the work.

If it’s stuck on there REALLY good, then try setting your work origin a little higher next time - basically as soon as you get ANY tension on the testing sheet, rather than waiting until it folds when you push it.

It looks like for some reason the filament stopped extruding. That’s what happened on my vase print, although it was about 3" up from the base when it happened.

Usually this means either something snagged the filament (either it’s crossed on the spool, or maybe it jumped off the side of the spool and got wrapped on the axle). Take a look at the filament, see if there’s any tension on it.

Try heating the nozzle to 200, and once it’s hot, press “Load” again. Does filament come out on its own? Try loading 2-3 times to see if you have good flow, then try again.

Welcome to the journey - you’re gonna be learning for years.

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If the filament didn’t get tangled your z-offset is probably too low and kept the filament from coming out. The filament because it couldn’t go anywhere, got chewed up by the feed wheel and then wouldn’t feed.
Always stick around long enough and watch to see that your first layers go down properly.
If you don’t you can end up with a lot less pleasant fails.
_S

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Maybe this will help,

ab8fb9fe7426ac30ca5b8ffe17358c9bfdad01d1_2_1380x776
ab8fb9fe7426ac30ca5b8ffe17358c9bfdad01d1_2_1380x7761380×776 1.06 MB
904dac0c25256b49f2056c7c543f8c8212fcfb34_2_1000x1000
904dac0c25256b49f2056c7c543f8c8212fcfb34_2_1000x10001000×1000 376 KB

The fist is how to examine your first layer to tell if you have the correct z offset. The second is a picture of what happens when there is to much resistance on the filament(either because it got snagged as gamemaker described, or because your z offset was too low and the filament had trouble getting out of the nozle as sdj544 said.)

Still not bad for a first try! Let us know if you need more guidance, we are happy to help.
Happy making,
-Atom

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Very interesting! You folk are outstandingly helpful. It’s odd SM is so specific about using the included card to get the right height, but I’d say you’re certainly right that the nozzle was too low. I’ll have to give it another shake. Much appreciated!

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6

I think the problem is that people equate calibrating with setting some perfect setting to print from. You need to look at it differently.
When it’s calibrating the first automatic steps are telling the machine info it needs to compensate for any unevenness in the bed. The final step with the included card is then what gives the reference point for those adjustments, and a starting point for adjusting z-offset.
Every type of filament (and to a lesser extent different brands of same type) has a different preference for z-offset. For the resistance of the card that I like, which is just 1 step less than SM instructions (buckles when pushed quickly, but not slowly) for PLA I use .05 offset, PETG .15 and TPU 0.0 offset.

I don’t think that you should ever have to use a negative z-offset. If you do you’re doing something wrong calibrating and there’s a very good chance you’ll gouge your bed.

-S

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7

I agree completely, better to be high during calibration with a larger z offset. I have never heard of anything really bad or costly happening from having your nozzel too far away from the bed. But when its too close (and you have a -z offset) bad things happen often.

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8

In this particular case, you will probably find your filament ground out like in that picture @Atom showed you. Be careful pulling it out, it will break easily.

Good luck @Azarend, and don’t get discouraged, it’s all about learning things while you control your frustrations :expressionless::wink:

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