Just finished putting together my new A350, as an engineer I was very impressed by the build quality.
Just started my first test print. Thought I would print the sample swirl vase. Used the standard settings after calibrating the Z axis.
Was a little surprised to see that on quick print was going to take 17 hours, and 96 if i switched to high quality. But OK…
When it first started to print it created a couple of wild circles but then started to lay down a first layer in straight lines. Left it to run. After about an hour I went back to look to find the base was about 2.5mm high but had come unstuck from the heated base and it was printing wild lines.
Having a good look at it, it obviously has not adhered to the base (key to a good print) and appears warped.
So here are my thoughts…
Base not hot enough?
Base too hot?
Initial layer not hot enough?
Stick on layer (brand new) should have been cleaned first with something like alcohol?
Going to try it again tomorrow, but first wanted to get some input from you experts who I am sure saw this before.
Attaching three pictures showing the weird first lines, the warping of the base.
it requires practice. Try turning the bed temperature up, and maybe you can adjust your z offset. wipe your print sheet down with alcohol too!
you want to check “spiralize outer countour” for vase mode. vase mode is just the outer shell thin with no infill while you are printing it as a solid object with a high percentage of infill. Spiralize Outer Contour is unofficially called “vase mode”
adding a brim can help too, especially when you are just getting started.
enabling z-hop can help the nozzle from bumping the part, if it has warping or over extrusion.
sometimes adhesion can fail, it takes some practice to get used to overcoming that, there are plenty of threads on the forum about it though. I would definitely spend some time searching on the forum.
Not to sound like a snob but
We don’t mind giving advice on here, but there is kind of an expectation that you research things out a bit. I mostly replied because the vase mode thing which is not very apparent in any instructions nor labeled in a way that makes sense.
Thanks so much. Been reading a lot. Will try all of your comments Another try tomorrow, think it looks like most say print a test cube first. So will try a few options.
Nice to know there are others out here willing to jump in to assist.
Unless you are printing with ABS or PETG, it probably isnt really warping so much,
It isnt necessarily temperature related, Sometimes poor adhesion lends itself to this type of curling.
The print bed is notoriously un-level, so it could just be a low spot.
Over time you will learn your bed.
Countless hours have been put into overcoming the print bed on this forum, and so many things from modified calibration to custom replacement beds have been done. i personally have graduated to a glass bed after a long time of wanting to push my machine to the next level.
I can add that if you pre-heated your bed at your preferred temperature for about 10 minutes before running calibration, you will find greater success with the calibration grid being more accurate, as the bed distorts when it warms up. this with a 5 x 5 calibration can make a night and day difference. Its possible to make even larger grids, and there is a recent post that someone made about this with conjunction with snapmaker dev team itself. or many other variants before that one.
As you seem to be an enclosure, that should help alot with minimizing warpage too as the temperature will remain more stable.
Although, if you are using ABS or PETG you may try reducing or turning off the cooling altogether. Theres a balance to be found there. The enclosure makes a big difference there though.
