Noise Reduction or: How to silence your snapmaker 2.0

Hi there,
because the snapmaker 2.0 is quite a noisy printer and I’m always trying to improve and silence my printers so far I’m creating this topic. There are several topics about noise and it’s sometimes difficult to find all the information you want :sweat_smile:.
So I’m trying to collect all usefull topics and informations from this forum (and maybe other platforms) and provide you with my own ideas, measurments, data and builds here.

Stay tuned! :wink:

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Usefull topics from the forum and other sides I found so far:

A topic about the original fans and options. I ordered most of these fans (and some others) and will provide data as soon as I have tested various combinations and/or alternatives.

A topic about a bigger and better cooling fan. This is mainly about improving print quality, but I think it will provide some noise reduction because of the larger and most times quieter fan. Will be tested as soon as parts arrive.

An alternative backplate for a 40mm PSU case fan. This is a valid alternative, especially because the PSU case provides enough space for a 40mmx20mm fan which is a lot quieter while providing more airflow.

An alternative workaround for a bigger PSU case fan I found in a topic here in the forum (not sure which one, already lost track :sweat:). I seams quite nice, I will also test this one, but might use a wider fan (40x20mm).

Other work-in-progress projects:

  1. Reducing the transmitted vibration with foam pads or rubber granulate pads.
  2. Soundproof the enclosure with acoustic foam.
  3. Bigger 12V PC fan for enclosure exhaust (more airflow, better regulation, less noise).
  4. Noise reduction effect of an airfilter for the enclosure exhaust (is also important for me because I can’t exhaust outside.

Please give me some time to test all this things, if you already use some of these or different approaches or have ideas for tests send me a pm or post in this topic!


Edit: The moment I sent this post a package with the Noctua 40x20 fan arrived, so I might test that one today!

First small update:

I got some parts, so I started working. While the PSU fan arrived, I didn’t installed it because the PSU -->CASE<-- fan is the main problem, like @Franky mentioned in his topic (FYI: Snapmaker 2 & Enclosure Fan Information plus alternatives).
In my opinion the mentioned 35x10 fan is still to small and loud, so I ordered an Noctua 40x20 fan (12V, so needs some tinkering), which will provide a lot more air flow while emmiting less noise than any other alternative, but I will test them both.

Another problem is the measurment itself. I don’t own professional equipment, I made all measurments with the app sound meter from abc apps on a fairphone 3. I meassured noise by placing the phone in 30cm distance to the noise source and meassured vibration by placing the phone on the vibrating surface. So my data is more relative than real and my recommendations are based on personal impressions. Everyone fell free to provide better data!

First recommendation for everyone:
Try to use another slicer and accelerate your printer! This sounds trivial, but like many others mentioned the Luban slicer is not really good and the linear moduls emit a lot more noise when they are running slow. There are a lot of good topics about alternative slicers and configuration. Look at these topics for example:

A HUGE recommendation for everyone owning an enclosure:
Use acoustic foam inside your enclosure! I had some 3cm acoustic foam laying arround from an enclosure project for my late Anet A8, but it didn’t fit my selfmade enclosure. I used doublesided tape to fix it, but there might be better solutions. Cutting it in the right angle even allows to open the doors far enough to get to the ports.
You could use the foam plates that came as packaging with your printer, but that will just sound insulate while the acoustic foam “swallows” sound.
As you can see in the pictures I didn’t had enough foam for the front door, but that might not be necessary and still allows to look inside.

My data so far:
Noise without any improvements:

  • Outside (during print): 38 dB
  • Inside enclosure (during print): 50-60 dB
  • PSU: 42 dB
  • PSU case fan outlet: 72 dB
  • Vibration: 32 dB

Noise after using acoustic foam (no print, just “basline”):

  • Outside: 29 dB
    • with enclosure fan running: 34 dB
  • Inside enclosure: 34 dB
    • with enclosure fan running: 45 dB

The data is extremly flawed due to my insufficent hardware! Do not use these values for direct comparison with your printer!

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That foam is also going to hold heat in significantly more which is also a plus, especially on PetG or ABS- i am using some right now for an unrelated project trying to dampen some noise at work and i could have fried an egg in there.

Added a temperature probe and some logic to my controller to kill the solenoids once it gets to 150F and resume at 140F lol

You are right, it is holding the heat inside.
That is a positive side effect and for many materials and especially if you try to print high-heat materials (which I will do in the near future).
You should add a temperatur control that is linked to the exhaust fan, I might build a setup for that and post a how-to here. I think I will disassemble the standard exhaust fan and use a bigger 12V fan for PC cooling with an arduino maybe.

BUT there is a downside: I highly recommend to install a bigger part cooling fan (see topic above), because the standard fan has a hard time with higher surrounding temperatur and it will increasing spinning and lead to bad overhang in prints!

Edit: Saves energy too, because the printer needs significantly less heating!

Yeah, the part cooling mod is awesome and would be a great thing to have in combo with this!

I could rig up a temp control for exhaust fan with the same controller im using at work without much hassle, it would be nice if we could use the snapmaker controller somehow to accomplish that but im not sure how that would be doable.

I don’t think that we will have this in the near future when I think about all the issues that we encounter at the software side of the snapmaker.
It would be nice if there was an extra module for temperatur control that you link to your snapmaker. I would even spend money on an out of the box solution!

Im relatively certain I can do that for about 100 bucks with a PLC and a temp probe connected with a serial link cable to usb.

I guess it depends on what you want it to do exactly. Pretty sure marlin has enclosure temperature controls we could enable and once temp is reached send a command out to say its reached.

it would probably depend on the conduit to how those temperature pauses are worked out - if some line of code is presented when temp is reached to do the resume it would be real easy, otherwise we would have to address it somehow and let the controller ping it.

i am really new to communications but its something i am trying to get into.

if nothing else a little standalone system would be rather simple. @ max temp close relay X controlling fan voltage. add a little hysteresis so it doesnt go all flickery.

or even add an enclosure heater to speed the process along and turn it on until a temp is reached but if its too hot then blow the exhaust fan perhaps. its all just relays and wires anyhow, the plc just lets me do it with less components having digital components basically.

however i am sure there are alot cheaper ways to accomplish these things, i am primitive though and thats the best i could come up with.

i wish i could take my PLC knowledge and apply it to coding an arduino or something, that would make it cheaper and more flexible, but i just dont have the time to learn it. maybe octoprint has some support for temperature control already?

I don’t think that’s necessary - since the thermistor on the bed will never be below ambient, and that’s the thermistor that controls the heater, and the enclosure still has ample thermal transfer, I don’t think just the hot end heater, controller, and linear modules will generate enough heat to runaway.

octoprint has posibiltys to do that with pi and 1820 1w sensor or more. you can react to those parameters. Plugin enclousreplugin report temps testet not more for me.


I tested some solutions, but I’m still waiting for a lot parts (I mostly order directly in China because of the HUGE price gaps for the exact same product).
The first 25x25mm fan arrived, thats the part cooling fan. I use this one (25mm Fan 5 V 12 V 24 V Dual Kugellager USB DC Bürstenlosen Leise Kühlung 2510 25 x 10mm Für 3D Drucker Notebook|3D Druckerteile & Zubehör| - AliExpress). I really recommend to switch this one, it’s just a little quieter, but has a slightly improved airflow which is nice.

For the PSU fans:
I’m still waiting for some parts on my side, but I found a lot of interesting workarrounds with 12V fans.

Contrary to my prior posts a 40x40x20 fan DOES NOT fit in the PSU by ca. 1mm without tinkering. You should use a 40x40x10 fan if you want an easy solution.
Right now I run the PSU without a back fan and without all the extra LED stuff inside. For 3D print thats totally sufficient but I’m not sure if the cooling is ok for every application.

For the enclosure:
DO NOT use acoustic foam when you don’t have an extra part cooling fan (like this one 3DP Part Cooling Fan 5015 Replacement - #167 by hoaschter).
The enclosure will get to hot inside and it’s not possible to print steep overhangs or bridges (I made a picture of a temperatur test without extra cooling).

I also recommend this clamps for the doors, so you don’t have to cut the foam extremly precise or otherwise the doors don’t close completly.
Snapmaker 2.0 enclosure door clamps by BrienAllison - Thingiverse
Also double sided tape doesn’t seem to be the best solution for the acoustic foam on the doors, the foam will eventually fall off, I’m searching for a better solution (maybe something 3D printed, I got a couple of ideas).

About vibration:
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND a proper anti-vibration solution. In my case I use a 2cm thick 80x60cm granulated rubber sheet. It reduces the noise in the room but especially the quiet vibration sounds that you hear at night. You can use a solution with foam, but my A350 with enclosure is to big for concrete+foam and to heavy for just foam.
There is a brilliant video from CNC kitchen about this topic.

I will test some exhaust solutions in the future and make an overview next month.

I have designed a mount that will fit a 40x40x20 Noctua fan with a buck convertor, i have confirmed that this fits with the fan in my a350 psu, but haven’t mounted it as I don’t have a buck convertor or a 12 v Noctua on hand only a 5v one.

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I just did a simple fan swap. I got 2 fans from AliExpress for less than CA$10. I had to switch the polarity but then they just plugged in and worked. I also removed the screen because it just creates turbulence and thus noise. I did some sound level measurements before and after at 1 meter:
Before 47dB (background 23 dB)
After: 36dB (background 21 dB)

So that is significant by itself.

My issue is that the y axis movement is a lot louder than the x axis. I made a “soundproof” enclosure but the axis movement sound goes right through it. Any suggestions for that? Is there something I can oil or something?

The y-axis resonates with the table below it causing it to be significantly louder. I believe the video linked by @Diablobrother in their last post is supposed to help with that.

Ok I did the concrete slab. I picked it up at Home Cheapo. It makes a huge difference in noise. I don’t know the decibels but it is many decibels! Thanks!

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I’m planning a run to one of the big-box stores and will likely pick up some material for fabbing up an enclosure.

My original play was to use aluminum angle for the frame, and then just have panels of plexi (where I need to see through) and corrugated plastic (where I don’t).

The insulation idea has me thinking, though. Some foam insulation panels, we’re talking R6 I think, could be used for the sides and top, as they are not load bearing (filament holder is a TBD regardless and might be inside the enclosure). Something ugly like construction cement to hold them to the aluminum angle, or (more likely) some 1/16" or 1/8" aluminum flat to act as a clamp (drill the angle and the flat, standard bolt-and-nut to cinch them together).