3DP Part Cooling Fan 5015 Replacement

This is cool, but are you sure a coffee filter is a good solution for the air flow and cooling? I am afraid it’s too fine.

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Well, its what i had available, feel free to use something else.

id say use some screen but thats pretty open, the material that came on the original plate is rather fine. its just some kind of punched mesh but its very tight, very little airflow. small particulates can get through it i believe.

I wanted to try to print one similar to it but i think thats a challange, i thought maybe if we had configured a raft a certain way it could be a good proper element to keep the dust out, but to be honest the existing screen got clogged up on me too and i just vacummed it out as needed.

i think that the side of the head where i have mounted it is the exhaust, not the intake, because the other side is where the dust is gathering. so maybe it doesnt need to be a very fine filter at all.

either way i dont think coffee filter paper is going to cause any harm, its just a woven paper and allows air though

you coudl always order someting like this for example

if you want i could even figure out an exact match for the existing medium, theres many materials out there to choose from.

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Hello, if i type M106 that should turn this blower on right?

I don’t think its working anymore for some reason but i want to make sure i know how to test it.

I crossbred your standoff with Atom’s mount, dunno if it’ll do anyone else any good, but I am about to mount the crossbreed on my snappy as I like your clearance and Atom’s mounting solution.
crossbreed.stl (562.8 KB)

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Nice work but heavy to print :wink:

I still had 50mm CPU fans in the box.
Quick and dirty some changes to the files. Voltage reduced with resistance.


Seitenwand-links.stl (45.6 KB) 50mm-fan-box-trichter.stl (172.4 KB)
:joy:

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Hi Brent!
Hope you´re doing good.
I finally managed to implement your mod on my SM2. At first it seems not to work and I was heavy on trouble shooting until I realized that the first layer gets no part cooling when is sliced by LUBAN.
Thank you for this great mod. Now bridging and stinging is much better.
Thanks to Atom as well. I cut his design to get the spacer plate for passing the cable. I got it to late C.Harris did it already.
But now I´ve got an other issue. I can´t regulate the speed of the fan. Using LUBAN it´s not possible to set the speed and even when I use Marlin codes in the console (e.g. M106 S128 for 50% running speed) it does not work.
I think the fan runs always on 100% what causes heavy warping now.
Do you use LUBAN or any other slicer?

To you and all in the comunity have a nice Christmas :santa: :+1:

Cheers Roland

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Looks great! Nice work!

The M106 S128 should be working. Is it possible it’s on at 50% power, but it’s still just too much air? The command response is not linear, like many would want, unfortunately. What about M106 S0 or M106 S10, that should be basically off. I think I can run as low as M106 S20 or M106 S40 and still have it turn.

I use Simplify3D and Cura. In Cura it would be this setting:
image

Whoops, this was fast :wink: - Thanks!

Never used CURA before. Can I use these settings?

(https://support.snapmaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360044341034)

I´m also not sure that the settings at point 5 are meant for the printer or the extruder.
And I also wonder because the Cooling Fan Number is set to “0”

Any hint?

Should it work with G code even when not printing?
Right now the fan does not react when I send a code by LUBAN and the printer is idle…
Only in workflow after the first layer it works. That´s the reason why I thought it does not work in the first place.

You can use those settings, they go in the printer as shown in the picture under point 3. Those settings are rudimentary and I think @WilliamBosacker’s settings are superior: Snapmaker PLA test results

That fan will respond anytime you issue the command. The machine does not have “printing” vs “not printing” states, it does whatever it’s told with gcode at any time.

^ That really only applies if things are working. If Luban isn’t sending the command or something I have no idea. It’s never been an issue for me though, but I’m usually using a USB cord. I do occasionally send commands via wifi though and that’s never been an issue that I recall.

I will add to this - no matter what i did, i could not get gcode to control the fan.

maybe it does have to be hard wired for this, but i was under the impression you could send commands just not receive feedback. (wifi)

i thought well maybe i had to use some other gcode first to get things rolling but i looked through my files and that simply is not the case

OH I got my laptop im gona pull that out and give it a whirl to confirm.

im going to wait until this print is done first, i dont wana have something go weird and have to start over.

Hey cody, what version of luban are you using? 3.12.3 is my version.

Hi Moose,

I use 3.10.2. Should better update this :roll_eyes:
After all the fan reacts with gcode, but with delay.
but the speed isn´t constant ether. Maybe it´s really a WiFi issue or the fan does not work proper.
I guess I need some time to figure this out.

@brent113 thanks for the settings from Will. I´ll try these as well.

your fan does respond? :o mine def does not.

gona plug it in about an hour and give it a whirl

Okay -

So, like i said previously, I wasn’t getting the fan to reply to me from the console on wifi

i would type ‘m106’ and it would say OK but not do anything

I finally brought my laptop home and connected it via usb

‘m106’ echo: ‘unknown command’

‘M106’ Snapmaker replies OK (fan turns on)

‘M107’ Snapmaker replies OK (fan turns off)

disconnect and reconnect over wifi from other computer

‘M106’ snapmaker replies OK (fan turns on)

So I have two things to take away from this experience

First, while we know the snapmaker cant communicate back over wifi (for some damn reason that needs to be changed), but I now know that luban has been programmed to lie to us to pretend like it does.

The other thing i learned today is i am a moron.

Hopefully someone gets some amusement out of my misfortune or even better learns from my mistake.

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Hi MooseJuice,

then we both are morons :wink:
When I tried gcodes I also missed it´s seems to be important to send the command in capitals. With lower case letters it does not work. But even with capitals first it didn´t work always.But I can´t replicate the error. Need to watch out for this.
I´m still pretty rookie in 3d printing and and don´t have the time to get full in this hobby.
But we will get to it. Some day,… hopefully :smiley:

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Those overhangs look better than anything I’ve accomplish with a stock print head too. What layer height is that?

my layer height is .16

yeah the fan really made a difference for sure… although im still trying to work out the proper fan settings…

i havent really tried very hard but did to a couple others on othe rmaterial and did not see the same rate of success… but i think that i am going to re-evaluate the way i do those tests.

actually im wrong i dont know the layer height, the gcode was generated here:

Teaching Tech 3D Printer Calibration (teachingtechyt.github.io)

So to make sure I have this right before I attempt soldering my Y splitter, the fan in this diagram represents both fans wired in parallel, so both female red (powered) leads that the fans plug into are soldered to the single positive lead for the male connector that plugs into the board, and likewise for the black (ground) leads?

Then the diode is soldered so the line on the diode is on the end attached to all powered leads, and the opposite end is soldered to all ground leads? This way, residual power on the grounded side of the fans is allowed to pass back to the powered end, but not the other way around, right?

Sounds right, yes. Line to positive, otherwise it’s a direct short circuit. And yes, the fans are in parallel.

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