Hey check this out someone made a quick change print head
Snapmaker 2 Tool Adapter Plate by marcopolo85 - Thingiverse
Didn’t see it on the forums yet so thought id share it, was checking to see what other snapmaker 2 mods were shown on thingiverse 
I wonder how well that one works with the cnc tool head. Especially since there’s only a border on two sides and not all four. I don’t want the cnc head to go spinning around next time when I accidentally plunge the drill bit 1cm in a piece of wood 
In this case I like the easydesign-version better.
Not even going to try it on cnc.
No way that’s staying on.
Takes me two minutes tops to change out heads. It’s only 4 screws.
And that’s using the included screwdriver.
If I wanted to go faster I’d use an electric.
-S
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The concept is nice, because the head will end up in the same position - no recalibration needed
i dont plan to make them myself, i just like the ingenuity!
I think an ideal design would
- have minimum standoff from the x axis mount so as to minimize the increase in torque
- would have alignment pins or some way of registering
- would have a locking mechanism of some kind
I feel like all of the ideas I’ve seen have elements that would be incorporated in this, but it’s not quite mature yet.
Edit, lmao yes this describes screws also 
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Sounds like you’re describing screws 
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i always want to figure out some kind of toggle pin solution, maybe ill check into that.
You could do something were you use 4 set screws (10mm would do) in the module (using the existing screw holes) They can then nicely align in the bracket on the rail. And then use some kind of cam lock buckle thing to press it against it (on all 4 sides).
And the module itself in a tool-holder (think something like this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3450913 but with part of the backside open) where you can put it in securely and fixate it appropriately.
That way you don’t offset the tool further from the axis than with the screws, it’s aligned because of the set screws and secure using the right type of clamps. Extra advantage: the toolholder could be designed to allow easy fixating extra parts. Think a dust shoe for the cnc, extra fan mod for 3d printing, similar extra fan for the laser for blowing (or sucking) away the smoke etc.
But I do have to agree with @sdj544. It is only 4 screws. Changing the bed is a lot more work. I’d prefer a better solution for the bed any day over an easier solution for the toolhead.
This is an entirely solved problem in the machining world. There’s a whole class of quick-change tool posts and tool holders available. The most common style was originally designed by Aloris; they’ve been endlessly copied. There’s a sliding-wedge style of locking mechanism that could be readily adapted to the SM2. The biggest advantage is how they lock all six degrees of freedom in the tool holder.
The same sliding wedge system could be used to make a quick-change bed system.
This is also an alternative. Has locating pins and lock handle. I printed in pla to test the fit and it’s tight. Will probably reprint in PETG and use it with a nyloc nut.
But yeah to echo posters above, changing the bed is much more hassle than changing the toolhead, would love to see a reliable quick release clamp for the bed
Well, another approach for the bed might be to use the CNC bed, machine it flat and place the heating bed on top of that.
That’s what I did 
(And I think @xchrisd did the same?)
but still you need to fix the printplate it to the cnc bed somehow. You could put some magnets in the cnc bed or something to fix the printbed or laser plates. @xchrisd, I don’t know how you’re fixing the plate to the cnc bed? Personally I’m using just longer screws that go through it all for now.
For the printbed I wanted to put a silicon mat in between (I used this one, resistant up to 500°C) because I didn’t feel very comfortable to have the heated bed directly on the wood/cardboard. Although I don’t think it would be a real problem, but still.
The printbed itself warps a bit as well as it gets heated so fixing it is still needed to keep it flat. Probably less of an issue with the laser plates. (haven’t used the laser yet)
Yes @brvdboss, I did it the same, excluding the silicon mat. 
For the Laser, I build a 3d designed plastic-clamp so there is no need to unscrew anything.
I personally find it more annoying that the heads screw in from the back more then having to use screws to switch heads. Just hard to reach.
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I think a clamping system would work. A ball stud (or something) that mates with a special clamp after it’s inserted.
Something like this for the stud, although I’m aware there’s very little clearance. The ball end would have to be smaller than opening, around 4.1mm.
A specially designed clamp could slip over the top and bottom and tension against the stud
There’s a few obvious problems, but I think they would be easy enough to overcome. Like, what secures the clamp in place, how much tension is required, etc.
I just found this quick change adapter on Thingiverse tonight. It looks quite robust and has a locking mechanism so it might be good for CNC. I’m gonna try it once my laser is done a super long engraving job.
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He had that posted on FB. He hasn’t ever tried it on cnc.
Let us know how it works.
-S
I think it would not work great even on CNC lol because the faliures are not beeing noticable!
The printbed is the very hardest thing on the hole machine! - CNC Never WITH THIS UNDERBED
The toleraces of the bed are sometimes bigger than the cutterdiameter rotfl
Okay for some decorate stuff it might be right but if you want to do CNCing… laughing out loud.
I will my machnine bring mechanicly to a good point. All the doing in firmware is a laughter as long the mechanic is not presice. You can call me a bad talker but if you had the best CNC Machine and can not handle it you had a shot in the ass! But a weak machine you can tweak and hassle IT WILL NEVER WORK seamless of your skills. The linearmodules are the best of the hole system (I kow the were often bad, mine were good so long). But lay your hand on the groundbed with a Probe set to the buildplate you see it going down for min a 1/10 mm no way thats good. I close now as knowing I have only spoken to the IMHO groundproblems, (The forum is overload with that) I will going my way snapmaker theirs.
(Dont take me all to bad im angry about snapmaker at the time)
Now I feel a little better hope you understand
HAPPY NEW YEARS ALL YOU MAKERS
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happy new year stefix, lets take a lil break and come at it fresh next week eh?
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