I had no idea these printers would be such garbage.
The response I got from support started out helpful, sort of? But the longer between responses and telling me “it’s your slicer settings, you should go fix them” made me furious.
I don’t think i can get my money back. God damn I’m annoyed.
I am noob, I know nothing. I am not trying to say what could be a fix or what you should try. Just my experience…
I printed 1 presliced gcode and had a lot of clicking. Before and after that print, I had no clicking on the calibration prints that come with the printer, a downloaded stl I sliced in snapmaker luban, and a print I designed in snapmaker. (Also sliced in snapmaker luban.)
Just have seen a post on Facebook where a user said that his/her teflon tube stuck out of the hotend and “collided” with the feeder wheels. Not sure if this might be an issue here? I guess it would happen on retraction. Just hearsay, was not able to relocate the facebook post for reference…
EDIT: Oh, stupid me, got this completely wrong in every way. It was not Facebook, but here in the forum, and not the feeder after all… ignore! I just leave the post here for the remote chance it still is somehow the same problem: Left filament feed tube getting caught between head and side of housing
Try this, you’ve got nothing to lose. I put a 6" fan above the printer blowing straight down. I don’t know how many CFM its pushing but its a pretty good breeze. Clogs and under-extrusion have disappeared. I was worried it would cool too much but temps have held steady at 60 and 225. I’ve always suspected heat creep was the issue and this seems to confirm that. I printed a 6 hour piece that failed twice before and it’s perfect, not a single click. The last time I tried to print it before the fan I got a clog on layer 2… Like I said, you’ve nothing to lose, give it a try. It worked for me when literally nothing else has.
What kind of Filament did u print
Mine runs complete closed on Pla.
I got some fans on the back but I think on the position of the motors are much more temp. They need a cooling too
Next days I will some tests with ASA, TPU and some PETG or ABS
This is the route I am going next. I have had the dreaded heat bed error code constantly. Contacted support, and they replied back relatively quickly with a test of the resistance across two contacts. It fell within the accepted range, so I put everything back together, recalibrated the machine and started another job using nothing but PLA.
The error popped up again 15 minutes into the job, and left an absolute mess on the bed of string cheese filament and melted parts. I turned to my Ender 5 and currently the prints are coming out flawlessly using PETG which, the J1S cannot for the life of it, manage to print nor the ABS. It’s just a constant issue, one thing after the other with printing anything but PLA and guess what? It fouled that up tonight as well.
Dont even get me started on the whole dual color thing either. That in itself is a joke if I have ever seen one because when you try to use the two color option, the layers will not adhere together (using their stock settings and moving the temps up by 5, 10, 15 and 20 degrees even) and frankly, I want to send it back. I wanted to by a Prusa, or a Bamboo…I seen a review Modbot did on the J1S and normally his word is gold but in this case, perhaps I got a machine that was returned or just absolute junk, but I have only had a total of 4 successful prints out of 30.
Yup. So, I am waiting for support to reply back and if the answers dont actually fix this overpriced paper weight, then I am going to return it. If I cannot do that, then I am putting it up for sale. If nobody wants to buy it, then it goes into the pile of printer parts and never sees the light of day again, much like the F350 A 3d Printer that is also, a heaping pile of junk. It can laser and fairly do CNC, but the 3d Printer is junk on that too.
Lesson learned. Snapmaker cannot make a decent 3D printer. Period.