Any thoughts on replacing standard nozzles with Harden Nozzles -e.g. Olson Ruby,Hardened Steel
I’ve been using these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078N7FDNZ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 when printing PLA with mixed in metals and glow in the dark without a problem. I do have to increase the nozzle temperature 10C because they don’t hold heat as well as the brass nozzles.
Personally I wouldn’t worry about the pricey ruby nozzle unless you plan to print exclusively with carbon fiber 24/7. My four nozzles for $10 will probably outlast that $100 nozzle, and if they don’t I’d rather buy 4 more.
I just attempted to remove the nozzle from my hotend so I could try this out. No dice. Is there some sort of trick to removing the nozzle?
Did you heat up the nozzle before trying to loosen the set screw?
How did you get the nozzle out of the heating block?
I just put the block in my vice and found the correct size wrench and it came right out. I didn’t heat it or anything special.
Thanks - I was having trouble removing one and tried that. This morning i tried with a socket wrench and it came right out.
At the very least, compatibility with nozzles from E3D would improve the machine’s longevity.
If the nozzle breaks, you could replace it from them - if the module breaks, however, you have to replace the whole component.
I already bought some replacement nozzles (M6 thread) from Amazon (“chinese” brass set of 20 and a Micro-Swiss MK8 Plated Wear Resistant Nozzle).
No problems since I installed them…
Just don’t forget to recalibrate the printer.
I’ve been using this one for printing carbon fiber filament (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D9TTXPJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Works good as far as I can tell but I noticed i’m having to set my temps 7-10 degrees hotter. The heat doesn’t get from the heat block to the nozzle as well as the brass so it indicates fine but the layers definitely aren’t adhering as well as with the brass nozzle.
Would a bit of thermal paste (as used with heatsinks in electronic devices) be of help here to improve thermal conductivity?
Just out of curiosity, roja, what specifically do you mean by “recalibrate”?
Just calibrate the printbed (reset first)
@BriHar unfortunately not, higher temps are needed because steel is not as conductive as brass. not because heat is not being transferred from the block to the nozzle. This is normal for all 3d printers with hardened steel nozzles.
It’s been awhile since your original post, but curious if your opinion changed about the nozzle.
Would you still recommend the Micro-Swiss nozzle? I’m looking for a good all-purpose replacement (I routinely switch between wood and regular PLA).
For pla and wood filled pla just stick with a standard brass mk8 nozzel