I have had my SM2.0 250 for about 6 months, and it was working great. I got alot of nice prints off the printer. However, as of late I am running into an issue where when I go to bed level the machine, it fails.
As the first calibration point, it will dive into the printing surface and then error out and go to the center of the print surface and stop.
I saw that it could be the proximity sensor, so I check to see if the light displays as it gets closer to the print surface and it does. But the print head seems to ignore it and it continues to dive into the print surface.
I also saw on these forums to hold a metal surface under the sensor as the calibration starts up which I also did and the machine stops.
I have also updated my controller to the most recent firmware with no luck on fixing the issue.
Here is a google drive link to a video showing this (I canāt link things yet, too new of user)
I am beyond frustrated trying to figure this out at this point. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
wayneStock
I canāt view that link, could you double check thatās a publicly viewable link?
First thing that comes to mind - if the sensor is working when you trigger it manually, and it triggers near the bed, but the controller is ignoring it and crashing regardless, something is broken and youāll need to involve support: support@snapmaker.com.
If you want to try and dive into it - M119 will show endstop states, and I believe there will an entry called Probe. Use that to make sure the controller can see when you manually trigger the probe and the light goes on.
Itās really weird that the calibration will stop when manually triggered at the start, but will later crash into the bed. Does the sensor need to be height adjusted so it triggers sooner? Thereās a slot on the back that is supposed to allow for height adjustment. In practice, however, there is an internal plastic guide that is sticky and some people have had issues moving it.
ā
Brent
Thanks for the quick reply Brent.
Not sure what is up with the link. Let me try using google instead. CHANGED LINK ABOVE TO Google Drive
I have moved the sensor basically as far down as I can without it being farther down then the nozzle end.
Also what is strange, none of the M commands I am sending over are getting a response other than an ok.
I will reach out to support asap.
For some reason the developers chose to not send responses from the controller over wifi.
Youāll need to connect with the USB cable. Sorry, probably shouldāve mentioned that.
That is somewhat frustrating, but okay. Were you able to check out the video?
wayneStock
Ew, that crunching soundā¦ Thatās so bad.
Did the red light turn on when it probed? Might be the camera angle - I didnāt see a red light though.
Yes, the red light definitely comes on before it dives into the print surface. Quality of the video doesnt really show that it is red, but right under the metal casing, you can see the light come on.
Yea, I think sending support the video and maybe a link to this thread is the best option.
In the meantime, you could manually calibrate just so you can keep using the printer. Thereās a setting in the touchscreen for that.
Another thought - if you stick a usb drive in the controller and go to Export Logs on the touchscreen - post those files here and Iāll take a look. Maybe thereās something in there. Usually support asks for that anyways.
Yeahhhā¦my issue with all of this, is prior to this 3D printer, I have had 3 other printers that all were manually calibrated. I specifically got this one because it came stock with an auto leveling function. The fact that this function is now not working makes me beyond frustrated.
wayneStock
Yea, manual calibration is a compromise for sure, I think itāll be temporary though. The probing electronics are quite simple, Iām not really sure how it can break in the way youāre describing. It seems like it should never work, or should always work. Not work when manually triggered at the start, but crash into the bed laterā¦
Yet another thought - thereās no chance the controller has disabled endstops, right? This, also, will require USB, but do a M503 to view settings and make sure thereās no M211 in there, there really shouldnāt be. M211 S1 will make sure the endstops are enabled. I donāt think the probe would disable endstops but Iām running out of ideas.
Can you do a G38.2 probe from the USB terminal and manually trigger it? My thought here is you can run the probing routine at a height well above the table so you donāt have to worry about crashing it while testing.
The command would be something like this
G0 Z150 ; Go to height 150
G38.2 Z140 F300 ; Probe down 10mm and error if no trigger
I do not have a usb currently to use.
OK, well the G38.2 can be run over wifi, but you wonāt be able to see any output. If you hold something metal to it while moving that will at least confirm the probing āworksā. If it doesnāt work, then I would expect auto calibration to also not work. If it does work like it should, stopping when the probe is triggered, then thatās definitely a support issue because thatās bizzare.
Probing definitely is not working, according to the controller.
Iām really interested in knowing if probing works outside of a calibration, like the above G38 probe.
EDIT:
Just looked up in the file a bit and found this:
Probing was working very recently, as you said. Then it stopped working.
Aright, just found a USB, let me try some of your thoughts.
So the z_probe is definitely triggering.
as for the G38.2 Z140 F300 command this is what I get
Just really confirming things, at the risk of asking stupid questions, sorry: When you are not triggering the probe the endstop reads not triggered? Is it possible that itās triggered all the time?
Sorry, noā¦when I have nothing underneath it reads open. When I put metal underneath, it says TRIGGERED.
Also, the G38.2 command does seem to work when I add a metal piece under the sensor as it goes down.
That sounds normal for both of thoseā¦ Hmmm. If you want to try probing the bed, G30 will do a single Z probe of the bed. Based on your recent experiences it might risk crashing. Maybe have a hand on the power switch? You could try starting from like Z100 and early triggering with the metal, and if it fails, kill power before crashing.
Yeah I have no clue. 2 things I just did.
-
Brought the head to the center of the printing area. I then went to Z100 and then did 5 G30 commands. It detected the print plate each time no problem.
-
I then moved the head back 50 mm. I went to Z100 again and then did the G30. And it failed and went into the print surface. I checked to see if the sensor was triggered with the light, and it definitely got triggered.
I canāt help but laugh at this point.
wayneStock