I have found the autocalibration lacking. On the A350, the grid is so large, you can watch it print 75% acceptable initial layers, and 25% with the hot end buried into the print bed or hovering and leaving ropes of filament.
At this point, I’m thinking there’s a cabling error, and moving to certain position is disrupting comms?
It might be worth mentioning that the movement of the steppers does not use the microprocessor in the tool - steps are sent via dedicated wires in the cable directly to the stepper motor.
But probing does go to the toolhead’s controller, packaged in a CANbus message, and then sent back to the main controller.
I see this in the log:
“Found emitter disposed” is almost sounding to me like the CANbus sender (the toolhead’s probe) might be disconnecting???
Might be worth unplugging the toolhead cable from the controller and toolhead, reseating it, making sure it’s firmly seated??
Maybe there’s an internal break in the cable that only occurs at certain positions? In the position you found G30 doesn’t work, does G38.2 also not work? Do other CAN functions work, like turning the cooling fan on with M106 and M107 to turn it off?
First, my understanding is the light is always on… it does not indicate a trigger…
Second make sure the probe is over the bed… some people have had issues with gouging because the sensor is not actually over the bed even though the nozel is…
Third, and mostly as a side note… if you have an OTG cable you can download 3dfox and connect the printer to your phone for console commands… that way your printer does not need to be near a pc.
Did you update your firmware to the latest from the forum?
@Atom, in homeposition my probing sensor is not triggered, no red light is on. If i print or calibrate, yes the probing sensor is on, if i am near to the bed, like printing.
@wayneStock, what happens if you actuate the probing sensor once while traveling to the first point of calibration?- my z travel speed decrease a lot and the z-axis go really slow then.
My firmware is the latest version.
If I actuate the sensor manually at the start of the procedure, it will slow down, go up, come back down slower, just like a normal calibration point would be on the print surface.
wayneStock
Try reverting to 1.9 it is the most stable version of the firmware
I reverted back to 1.9, and I am still having issue with it diving into the print surface during calibration.
A couple things I have noticed, and I don’t know if they mean anything.
-
When I have the usb plugged in to see the communication, I see this.
Is there a potential that the controller is busy and the internal loop to see if the proximity switch has triggered is not being read in time? Or is it a interrupt and really wouldn’t matter? -
My machine coordinates seem a little strange. If anyone could let me know if this is correct, that would be great.
- Lastly, I guess knowing how the calibration sequence works would be good to know. If for some reason, my z height is low for some reason, and if the program waits for a certain height before trying to read the proximity sensor status, that would seem to be an issue.
Again, I am just trying to get to the bottom of this issue. I am well aware of the manual calibration feature, but the fact that one of the main reasons I bought this machine was for the auto calibration, makes me stubborn on the topic.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
wayneStock
I am not aware of a properly functioning enclosure having a busy wait loop, but maybe try unplugging it until we can get to the bottom of this?
I think those machine coordinates look fine - if you’re referring to the -X, that’s normal when it homes. The machine is programmed to know that the home position is off the build plate to the left. If you so desire, you can adjust that using gcode commands, I can’t remember which one though. I did because mine was actually 17mm off the left.
I’ve dug pretty deep into how probing works, and as far as I can tell there’s no issues with the code - it’s pretty standard Marlin, SM didn’t really modify all that much.
If you want to get into nitty gritty details of the firmware, PM me and we can go through it. The main relevant piece of info is the Bresenham ISR checks the endstop state and halts movement if any endstop is triggered. Since the probe is treated as an endstop, this will directly halt motion when triggered.
Thanks Brent for the response. I would have been extremely surprised if the proximity sensor didn’t act as an interrupt, but I thought I would through it out there.
As for the enclosure response…I do not have an enclosure, so I am not sure what the response is even.
wayneStock
I had a similar experience to what your video show. My y axis was probing off the table. After turning off the power supply, I manually moved the x y and z stages a couple inches. The thought being that it would force it to re zero. This seemed to work. I was able to print my first successful job.
Hey, maybe this helps you:
I would lower the sensor a bit to see if this helps.
Correction - This did not fix the issue
There are several threads on auto_calibration.
I had the same issue as shown in wayneStock’s video last night. Remembered I had to disable auto_calibration in the settings and increase the number of points to 5x5.
Then I successfully printed a new rear cover for the Power Supply as I have a quieter fan on order.
Just as an update, I have not been able to find a fix for my issue as seen in the video. I am kind of at this point waiting for support to get back with me (they have not yet).
In the meantime, I have changed the calibration to manual and have been printing successful prints for the last few days.
I am just kind of disappointed right now that the main feature I bought the SM 2.0 for is current not working…
Anyways, I appreciate all of the help/suggestions for everyone.
If support does get back with me regarding a fix, I will be sure to update this thread.
wayneStock
@wayneStock Just a bit guessing from me and wanting to help,- what happens if you actuate the sensor, i know your answer in a earlier post, it goes up a bit and then travel slowly down, what happens then?
Dig into build plate again?- Could it possible that your sheet has kind of a failure like it is not capacitive enough to actuate the proximity sensor correct?
May you actuate the switch every calibration point manual with a spatula, laying it on the buildplate?
Do you have a spare sheet or a old print sheet to test this with, even if you hold the sheet up to the print head, or unscrew the print head to see if the z travels beyond the calibration point?
I will help you via the ticket you opened before.
@Edwin care to explain why he gets help after 8 days when I have been waiting 5 weeks?
Edit: to be clear im glad that your helping people and that @wayneStock will get his problem solved in a timely fashion. Just trying to understand the reason why some people get help imediatly and others have to wait weeks for a response.
We have been busy with a flooded email volume, and I am really so sorry for the late reply.
BR
@Edwin thats what you said a week ago and said some one would help me “soon” but still no response. Also that doesn’t explain why you don’t seem to be helping people in a first come first serve manner. If you have time to help others, why have you not had time to even respond to me?
Please PS me the ticket ID right now.