Adapting the fan duct

Hello,

I am new to 3d printing. Posted a picture of a calibration test in a fb group and was told my problem could be solved by getting part cooling on both sides of the nozzle.

Can I just start measuring and designing a fan duct to redirect part of the airflow to the other side of the nozzle, or are there risks attached to that?

If it works, I’ll be happy to share the stl.

PLA tends to warp on overhangs due to the lack of cooling on one side of my print. i mitigate this with a desk fan but a new fan duct would be really great to cool from both sides. A new fan duct might be difficult to model but that would be much appreciated.

By the way, there is already another fan duct for the J1 on Thingiverse: Snapmaker J1 Modifica a doppia ventola 5015 by Mauro3D_MI - Thingiverse

That one still does not include more sophisticated things like a ring outlet for the air or two outlets at an angle that eliminate the “dead” zone on the opposite side of the hotend, and it is not perfect since the fan placement will let the hotends collide with the side windows, but it is a start and might be a good basis for further ideas.

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I had no Problems with the windows. no collision and the result is way better, much more cooling.

Thanks a lot! Then I must have measured wrong. Do you have a picture to share?

Im at Work, I started today, finished in 2 days at my customer here. Than I will make a picture of them. The 2 5015 blows very much Air down, the 1 fan duct is straight down and the other from Fan in the back is more on the side, so he blows more on the side down. I have to go down mit the normal cooling speed to 85% for PLA.

Stay Tuned

Thanks! I am looking forward to see them :slight_smile:

It would be cool to see a fan duct that allows cooling from both sides of the part. The cooling is absolutely sufficient but only from one side from what i’ve seen PLA is warping at high speeds because it cant get cooled enough

Here are they running. You don’t need from both side, with 2x 5015 fan on each side you have much air flow. set normal fan speed to 55.

Thanks a lot! I did not take into account the fans are so deeply embedded in the housing. That explains it.

Yeah you need modified a little and cut off one fixing hole from the fan. But that thing works.

If you need I can send you more informations. By the way, for the right extruder you have to mirror the part on x and y. Depends on your position on plate. If you don’t mirror 2 axles the fan are to close to the bracket on the rear

and you see i dont print on the glass, lokbuild is way better, no matter what you print, pla or whatever. all stick good on the lokbuild. no warping

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Did anyone has activated the jerk Funktion in Luban and what settings you use? You let jerk (if activated) always on or not?
Only on low speed or doesn’t matter

what do you have under the lokbuild?

The Snapmaker Original Glas Plate from the J1, but i upgrade it to Magnetic one and i Build a 4 Level Point Base for it to.

WoW, could you show us your work about how to upgrade the plate to Magnetic

I will make documentary and put it on here if I get all parts.
No Problem

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Great! Thanks

The Original Cooling Fan for the Filament is a Funny thing. To small for that speed and Temps.
The Blades of them are to big and cheap, dont have much Airflow. I dont understand why they dont put better and bigger ones into a Printer on that Price Class



That was the Original ones. You see the big blades.
I do not wonder why everyone have cooling Problems.
I try that Toyfans outside and they have really not much Air flow

So I put on 4x 5015 and it is way better.
These blades behind the decorative cover looks good but for real good prints at high temp and speed they are much to small, they cant cool the filament fast enough down for bridges and on corners or on smaller Parts of the Print

Tell me, do your fan housings also hit the rubber nozzle holders?

No they hit nothing. But for the right extruder I have mirror the part on 2 axles