Well, for me the J1 plays in the league of a Raise3D E2 - and look at the price tag of that one.
Or, in other words: for an IDEX printer of such a build quality, the J1 is a f***ing bargain. This means for me that some optimisation before you can print is perfectly okay and should be expected.
A Bambulab (which some here seem to use as a comparison) for example is something entirely different, That thing may be fast, but apart from that and from some goodies it is nothing but the same simple single extruder printer as any Ender or Anycubic for 200-ish Euros. Hence, to make its price tag reasonable, it better be “plug and play”.
We paid over $1,000 for this thing. It should work, I shouldn’t be a beta tester. And if I am, I should be compensated with the fixes when they are available.
I get that I bought this on Kickstarter, so that’s why I’m not raging on support or here in the forums, but there’s enough other people that actually bought this thinking it was a plug-and-play machine that it’s a problem.
I am experiencing the same frustrations as you, i have had no, NO! clean prints of the J1.
We have had with both Hardware, Accessories and Software / firm ware. Not to mention disrespectful replies when you bring it to Snapmakers support staff attention. (we have 5 3D printers) and this sorry to say is the worst of the lot. (I suspect QA /QC has become a casualty of the “quick buck syndrome” so many second generation products fall foul to.
I will never buy a new Snapmaker product again (We have a full house Snapmaker 2 which is the exact opposite to the experience with the J1)
It’s a shame to screw up such a beautiful device technically.
I have already changed so many things, but it still doesn’t work.
Today I wrote an email to exchange it for a functional device or to return it. I’ve been dealing with the service department since mid-February, but we can’t get it to work.
Es ist eigendlich schade, so ein schönes Gerät technisch so zu versauen.
Ich habe schon so viel gewechselt, aber er läuft noch immer nicht.
Heute habe ich eine Mail wegen Austausch für ein funktionales Gerät, oder Rückabwicklung geschrieben. Mache schon seit Mitte Februar mit dem Service rum, aber wir bekommen die Kiste nicht zum laufen.
Oh, judging from what I read in the german Drucktipps3D forum, the Bambulab has its bunch of bad issues as well.
After changing the cooling nozzle and fan to a decent design (I am perfectly happy with the brute force of the 2x5015 fan variant without any fancy protrusions) and - especiallly! - doing the heat break upgrade my J1 runs as perfect as the stupid Marlin firmware allows. I really like this printer now and will definitely keep it.
Hi, seems like the Beta testers are now part of the design committee, as an engineer I normally charge for my service, its nice when someone pays you for a product and then does not charge you to fix your design flaws (sic). Never the less, do you mind sharing details around the changes you made.
I am busy doing a detailed SWOT analysis on the Unit / ecosystem linked to a true life cost cycle to date to see what the real value proposition is of owning this, (tempted to say rough diamond, but that implies the formative process has been completed), first pass puts it at 1.7 -1.8 times purchase price, which makes it a poor VP for its abilities (or lack of) (sic)
i have come up with what i believe is a good form / function design for enclosed filament handling system, that works very well to date (still missing real-time hygrometer interface needed when printing hygroscopic filaments like 20%+ CFPA et al.
my main bugbear with the ecosystem is the high sound pressure form the system cooling fan (had similar issues with Snapmaker 2)
Working on using a range of AC Infinity cooling fan systems to quieten it down a bit (17-29 dB for up to 165 CFM airflow, which is way below normal urban background noise. Quieter than a mouse with slippers.
Being an engineer myself, I agree, at least partially. But I have yet to find the 3D printer that works 100% as I want it out of the box (probably a Raise3D E2) and has the price tag I deem in order for a pure hobby machine (which excludes the E2 again). And as a hobby machine, part of the fun is to improve it IMHO
In general, I have mostly given up finding something that is sold 100% working from day one. Sadly there are more than enough cases where buyers are abused as beta testers, and in my experience this happens often regardless of the price tag. Snapmaker just made no positive difference here. At least I got the printer for a significant discount during the pre-order phase.
The J1 is no machine for professional use however, at least not yet (I give it the potential to maybe become one… in a year or two, after some iterations). Anyone aiming for that should go for another printer that is already market approved, at least in a western country with high work hour costs where such tools need to do their job without much fuss.
You can find all my changes simply by searching here in the forum:
(scroll down a little to find the link to my version of the fan duct, but there are others as well)
Other potentially useful things:
The only things I did which you cannot find here is a print spool holder (mounted to the back of the printer) which raises the spools above the printer for easier exchange (wood work), and a lid-raising frame as the one i3sven posted in the linked thread, but with only the corner parts being printed. For the straight elements, I used a simple aluminium “L” profile.
Yip Agree, we have two Raise 3D’s one E2 and a E2CF, a Snapmaker 2 and our latest the Flashforge Flashforge Creator 4S IDEX, Thinking of trying Bambu Labs
the one constant we have on all of them is Diamondback nozzles, fit them and forget them no issues with ware from abrasive filaments, very high thermal conductivity of 543W/m-K
the low coefficient of friction and high thermal conductivity allows us to print at lower temperatures resulting in less stringing with difficult polymers and generally stronger structural strength due to less distortion of the monocrystalline structure of the filament, we have succesfuly printed PLA CF at as low as 172 deg C without clogging
Aah, polycrystalline diamonds are highly conductive as well, works perfectly well on the J1 for calibration, no measurable impedance difference between the std nozzles as supplied by Snapmaker and the diamondback nozzle. even being study for use in chip manufacturing because of the unique thin film deposition processes that is possible.
we are waiting for our 1mm and 0.25mm nozzles to arrive, the spare hot ends from SM arrived today, ( we can use them on our other printers as well) so no loss if we kick the J1 to the curb.
Fortunately you can define nozzle size in LUBAN and should not depend on the J1 to identify which hot end is install (SM supplied, supposedly match pair 0.8mm is being identified as left 0.8 but right as 0.6) not to mention the set of SM suplied 0.6mm HOt ends were the RH one gave an out of box error on the heating rog / element .
When we tested it in place, it gave an open circuit. After removing the leads from the connector strip and removing the silicon compound from the same it and reinstating the leads it worked just fine. Just another inditement of no QA or QC plan or implementation. So sad , so much potential.
all and all we have had 3 out of box failures of SM supplied accessories, someone needs their butt handed to them in a sling 75% failure for OEM accessories is a tad high don’t you think?
Thanks! I never had a need for hardened nozzles, so I did not check that yet. Good to know in case I might need those.
Regarding nozzle size: The only thing I can think of that the nozzle size detection might do (apart from showing the nozzle size on the display) would be loading another pressure advance parameter - but I doubt even that. There is a reason why this setting usually only can be seen in the slicer (regardless if you use Luban or a decent software) - the printer does not need to know at all about its nozzle size.
Thus, if you do not care about the display, you can happily ignore that and fit whatever nozzle you like to whatever hotend you have. Or, if you care, just solder another resistor to the PCB. No need to buy a hotend unless you want to be able to swap it out easily.
But it seems you had your issues with Snapmaker products. Thankfully all other stories I know (including my own) have a much better result: 3 accessories and 3 replacement parts ordered (I wanted to have spares since I think I will have this printer for the next decade or so), all of which arrived in perfect shape.