I can’t speak to the blockages you’ve had, but unloading filament will normally leave a small plug of filament like your second picture shows.
Does doing a cold pull remove the blockage?
I can’t speak to the blockages you’ve had, but unloading filament will normally leave a small plug of filament like your second picture shows.
Does doing a cold pull remove the blockage?
Where are you setting the retraction settings?
@00coday, What temp are you printing at? What speed are you printing at? What filament are you using? At what point in the print does the clog happen?
Don’t worry we will figure out what’s going on.
-Atom
Ahh thank you. I will try that now.
I am having the same problem after printing well with the original hot end for weeks. I have used the same settings as before in Luban, my loading gear is working properly, my nozzle is up to temp, but now I come back after a few hours and the SN (2.0) is printing air. I replaced the hot end twice (within 2 days of each other) and it is still happening. Each time I put on a new end, I am able to load filament both manually and automatically and the print starts just fine. It just stops printing - but the temp is where it should be, and as I said - these settings worked for weeks before this problem. I have been using SnapMaker PLA.
That’s probably the problem. A lot of people have had problems with the SM filament.
Not sure if it’s just not great or the delay from covid made it go bad.
Try different filament.
-S
Thanks for your reply. I will certainly try a different filament, but I was using the SM filament (same roll) before with no issues. Does PLA have similar sensitivity to moisture like PETG?
I found this post yesterday and I have been pulling my hair out for days over the same problem. I’ve replaced hot ends and even started using another roll of filament. I figured that it must be a settings issue but there is a lot of them. I got the SM2.0 to replace my Markerbot and I have seen some very promising signs when it works.
Thanks for the help @Atom, I really appreciate it.
The short answer is 185 hot end/40 degrees print bed, 60mm/s, using the SM PLA that came with the printer. Below are the full Cura profile settings that I used.
[general]
version = 4
name = Fast #3
definition = fdmprinter
[metadata]
position = 0
quality_type = normal
setting_version = 15
type = quality_changes
intent_category = default
[values]
alternate_extra_perimeter = True
bottom_layers = 4
bottom_skin_expand_distance = 0.8
bottom_skin_preshrink = 0.8
bottom_thickness = 0.8
brim_line_count = 20
brim_width = 8
cool_min_layer_time_fan_speed_max = 11
default_material_print_temperature = 205
expand_skins_expand_distance = 0.8
filter_out_tiny_gaps = True
infill_angles = [ ]
infill_before_walls = True
infill_line_distance = =0 if infill_sparse_density == 0 else (infill_line_width * 100) / infill_sparse_density * (2 if infill_pattern == 'grid' else (3 if infill_pattern == 'triangles' or infill_pattern == 'trihexagon' or infill_pattern == 'cubic' or infill_pattern == 'cubicsubdiv' else (2 if infill_pattern == 'tetrahedral' or infill_pattern == 'quarter_cubic' else (1 if infill_pattern == 'cross' or infill_pattern == 'cross_3d' else 1))))
infill_pattern = gyroid
infill_sparse_density = 30
infill_sparse_thickness = 0.24
infill_wipe_dist = 0.1
initial_layer_line_width_factor = 100
magic_mesh_surface_mode = normal
material_final_print_temperature = 185
material_flow = 100
material_initial_print_temperature = 185
material_print_temperature = 185
material_print_temperature_layer_0 = 185
min_skin_width_for_expansion = 0
optimize_wall_printing_order = True
outer_inset_first = False
raft_margin = 15
retract_at_layer_change = False
retraction_amount = 1
retraction_enable = True
retraction_extrusion_window = =retraction_amount
retraction_hop = 1
retraction_hop_enabled = False
retraction_min_travel = 0.8
retraction_prime_speed = 60
retraction_retract_speed = 60
retraction_speed = 25
skin_angles = [ ]
skin_outline_count = 0
skin_preshrink = 0.8
skirt_brim_speed = 18
skirt_line_count = 1
speed_infill = 60
speed_layer_0 = 18
speed_print = 60
speed_print_layer_0 = 18
speed_topbottom = 30
speed_travel = 80
speed_travel_layer_0 = 24
speed_wall = 40
speed_wall_0 = 20
speed_wall_x = 25
support_angle = 50
support_infill_rate = 15
support_initial_layer_line_distance = 2.6666666666666665
support_line_distance = 2.6666666666666665
support_pattern = zigzag
switch_extruder_retraction_amount = 16
top_layers = 4
top_skin_expand_distance = 0.8
top_skin_preshrink = 0.8
top_thickness = 0.8
travel_compensate_overlapping_walls_0_enabled = True
travel_compensate_overlapping_walls_enabled = True
travel_compensate_overlapping_walls_x_enabled = True
wall_line_count = 4
wall_thickness = 0.8
z_seam_corner = hide seam
z_seam_type = sharpest co
zig_zaggify_infill = True
185 is pretty low, mix that with a fast retraction and that could be causing the issue. Try turning up the nozzel heat to at least 195 and changing your retraction settings to 3mm distance and 40mm/s speed. Hopefully that will help. Also some have had issues with the SM filament, it might be worth trying a different one and seeing if the problem persists.
I have the same issue and I received from Snapmaker support the following info: “We discovered that our filament suppliers change the filament to a poorer one so that it may be not easy to use”. I change the PLA and now all work fine
Thanks Anto. Too bad I bought a stockpile of PLA from Snapmaker since I assumed that their PLA would work best with their printer.
I have the same problem, but support said me:
“After the cases of the filament were reported, we did some tests on that material. Unfortunately, the problem exists and this is a manufacturing error. We forwarded this issue to the filament supplier and send the filaments in the warehouse to them.
We changed the supplier and the new filament, Esun, is much easier to print.
Now, the filaments on the online store and packages are good ones.”
I check with PLA filament bought on web store and it’s fine.
@staff Are those who received bad filament going to have replacement spools sent to them? They shouldn’t be made to purchase new filament.
How would we know if we got the bad batch? Any serial numbers or date ranges?
Yes please - especially the two extra rolls I bought…
It definitely isn’t all of it.
Mine printed fine.
But it is way more than it should be.
-S
Hi,
I have been having also clogging issues, how did you take the nozzle of the hot end? I tried but i doesn’t wanna budge,
I used an adjustable wrench to hold the heat block and a 6mm socket wrench to get the nozzle off. Make sure you remove the hot end completely before attempting this and dont use any more force than is necessary.
It can also help if you have it hot.