It’s been a while since my last post here, and it’s been a while since I’ve touched the 3dChameleon project. Uploading everything I have - maybe community will pick this up and make it polished and finished.
I’ve got multiple successful prints with this code/setup. Description leaving to minimum - don’t want to waste time if there is no interest in the community. More you comment/ask questions, more time I will dedicate to this.
I am definitely interested in more information. Looking at the Chameleon website, if I get one now, it will be a Mk4 so I would need to figure out the changes.
I upgraded mine yesterday, and it seems like it should just work with current code. Basic functionality is the same. Hit me up with questions so I can expand the documentation for everyone.
No, 3DChameleon doesn’t see any G-Code. All it has as an input is the switch, that is triggered by a 3d printer. The switch can be installed at any axis, and then moving the axis to trigger the switch is how you control the color change.
Engage the switch for 5 sec - load color red.
Engage the switch for 3 sec - load color blue.
Timing in the example is not accurate but this is how it works. Very simple. So the custom G-Code goes into PrusaSlicer and plugs into the final sliced gcode that gets shipped to printer for execution.
I don’t think they have other options for sale.
International is pricey there for some reason, I can check how much it is to ship something from me to your country if you’d like. Or you could probably use a mail forwarder and consolidate packages to save a ton on shipping if ordering something else. I used to use them all the time.
Is this gcode inclusive of your own tip shaping set-up and testing in prusaslicer? Curious if that clogged more than reasonable given how other MMU systems have had that issue.
I’m still gathering my workshop together but this is my first project once it’s functional to work in.
I’m also thinking the 3DKlippy mods might be easy to adapt for the print module but have not looked into it too much, yet. Leaking roofs come first.
In terms of tip shaping settings that could just be a part of the workflow. Do your own tip shaping configs in prusaslicer and then copy and paste that over each section of your gcode.
Roger all that! I like your 4-1 bowden design and will stick with it to start and then try the default autoclippy later. I have the mk4 and I think that adoption is easier if autocutting is included as part of any guide. Same for the OLED add-on. Both seem like Snapmaker usertype essentials in the long run.
New workshop area almost ready to go. Still need to add 200-400W more worth of solar panels and a bunch of batteries but I’ll have enough for the next few months to do experiments and tests and such.
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