This thread is a continuous collection of user upgrades and mods.
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We highly value the Upgrades and Mods shared by our community members, and we have compiled it into Wiki: Snapmaker J1/J1s Upgrades and Mods Community Resources | Snapmaker Wiki.
Thnx for sharing
Can the Beaglecam v2 control the J1/J1S or are folks just using it to monitor prints? The A350T/A250T and F350T/F250T are listed as compatible.
Thanks,
Todd
Hi @tpearsall
I saw one talented community member have posted the results of his experimentation a while back. You can monitor the printer (temperatures) and move ONE extruder (because it doesn’t support IDEX). Moving the Z seemed to be inverted and left the printer confused as to where Z was, and required a reset. You can learn more here: Snapmaker J1/J1s Owners | What happens when connecting the Beagle cam V2 to the rear port of the J1 | Facebook
Yet another lid riser. This is designed to be fully printable on the J1. No additional hardware is required in its most basic form, though there are optional interchangeable side panels for a hygrometer, feeding in a usb cable, or corners with magnets you place while printing.
All the side panel options are the same dimensions so can be placed anywhere. I’ve not glued mine in case I ever decide to change one, but others have epoxied theirs together permanently.
Clever makers show it’s mirror symmetric for speedier printing, or also possible to fit a full set on one plate with the J1. I made it and didn’t notice. 
At 40mm height, it’s lower profile but still allows to relax the filament bend into the hotend to about 135 degrees instead of a hard 90 degrees.
the PEI coating in my glass bed disintegrated and the smooth side of the glass is getting chipped.
I’m thinking of trying a garolite print surface instead of ordering a new glass bed. Has anybody else tried that? Any potential concerns? The closest G10 I can find in thickness is 3/16 inch or 4.7mm. The glass bed is 5mm. I figured the clips would be able to grip it fine and I would just change the nozzle offset.
Is G10 that thick going to be difficult to heat up? Anymore so than glass?
I do have a U1 on order so my desire to keep the J1 going is somewhat diminished. I may also just salvage it for parts and build some other machine with the motion components.
Oh the G10 is a fun idea. I tried that on my Ender 3 before it was retired. Ended up not using it much at all for reasons I can’t remember. 
I think just because I got sick of having to clip it in instead of magnetic clamp on. Not a problem on the J1 since it’s built for that.
I’d think 4.7mm is close enough you may be able to just set the thickness on the screen to compensate. I forget what the limit is on that, but would be easy enough to check. I think I set my thickness slightly thinner as it seemed to help adhesion without hurting elephant’s foot, but it’s been a while since I set it. Even still, you should have room.
And yeah, would be a fun experiment to watch the glass vs G10 with a thermal camera.
Glass has a conductivity of 0.8 W/(degC-m) and G10 is 0.228 W/(degC-m). So that’s worse, not better. Can’t find the heat capacity of G10 with a quick search, which would speak to heating it up.
Also don’t know the numbers on mechanical heat stability. I would guess glass is more stable but… all easy enough things to check, and G10 is cheap!
