Also something weird as i try to heat up the bed in the control settings on the touch screen/ Or as I am about to start a 3D Print from the USB; Snapmaker Reboots on the Spot!
And Lastly a couple of times I was able to export the G-code to the Disk, somehow whenever i command to start 3D Printing, the Z axis will come so OFF on the bottom left and i would have to stop the machine before the 3D Print Module crashes with the Print Bed.
It sounds like something might be wrong with the controller, but not sure. Can you post pictures of your snapmaker please? The rails on the base plate, the controller and all the cables connected to it etc.
As far as Luban goes, 4.x is just junk so I recommend reverting to a previous 3.x version.
I just had this happen with mine a month ago. It is either the heated bed, the wire, or the controller. They had me measure the voltage of the heated bed to see if it was the controller, the wire, or the bed.
They told me the same, That I had to measure the Ampere in the heated bed, But before I could do that, I tried printing again, and it did. Though the First time it did reboot itself after an hour or so, then the other prints have been printing fine.
Havenāt been able to get a v3.x on Snapmaker, Still on 4.0.1, It did print well, though it did a reboot after an hour of printing, but after that itās been printing well.
What type of filament are you using?
You can usually get by without a heated bed for PLA.
You can just unplug it and set the temp to 0.
See if it still reboots itself.
-S
@andyfaby PLA is among the cleaner and easiest to post process, I donāt think youāll get what youāre expecting with other materials. Unless youāre saying that the current PLA youāre using is messier than it should be compared to other PLA?
@andyfaby you could use the setting in Cura called ironing, itāll use the nozzle itself to melt the final top layer to make it smooth, the sides and where it was touching the build plate youāll have to sand to a smooth finish. Then use XTC-3D to give it a shiny transparent coating.
No, ironing is not available in Luban. Ironing is only on the top though, and it sounds like youāre mostly talking about the sides? In that case sand it like suggested.
As you can see, Itās not āfineā exactly, especially for the small things, The strings tend to be seen a lot.
I guess am gonna have to Motor-Sand this items for a better and smooth finish before Priming or Painting, Right?
When it comes to Printing, ABS vs PLA, which one comes off better with a smooth finish straight from the Printer?
Also, this is classic underextrusion, the top layer is not fully fused:
Iād 2nd the recommendation to get a few rolls of more quality filament and then do more machine calibration. Could be your flow is too low. Could be your esteps is off. Could be you need more infill density. Could be you need more solid top and bottom layers.
More testing required.
These layer lines will always be present given the layer height youāve chosen:
Try a thinner layer height to reduce the impact of those. With imperfect calibration however just know that curling will be more likely with thin layers and could result in layer shifts and failed prints.
@andyfaby itās a transparent epoxy that fills any striations between lines and leaves a smooth glossy finish, can be sanded but not required, can be sprayed with primer but also not required, it leaves a smooth paintable surface. This photo is a before and after from matterhackers.
