Also something weird as i try to heat up the bed in the control settings on the touch screen/ Or as I am about to start a 3D Print from the USB; Snapmaker Reboots on the Spot!
And Lastly a couple of times I was able to export the G-code to the Disk, somehow whenever i command to start 3D Printing, the Z axis will come so OFF on the bottom left and i would have to stop the machine before the 3D Print Module crashes with the Print Bed.
It sounds like something might be wrong with the controller, but not sure. Can you post pictures of your snapmaker please? The rails on the base plate, the controller and all the cables connected to it etc.
As far as Luban goes, 4.x is just junk so I recommend reverting to a previous 3.x version.
I just had this happen with mine a month ago. It is either the heated bed, the wire, or the controller. They had me measure the voltage of the heated bed to see if it was the controller, the wire, or the bed.
Instructions from them, you unscrew the plastic around the heated bed cable at the heated bed: Please have a check on the two big pins of the heated bed cable. Select the Ω mode and check if reading. The normal range of the reading should be about 2.5Ω~3.1Ω.
Mine was above that tolerance and they said it wasn’t conclusive so they sent me a new bed and a controller.
Another thing you could try is the hot end. If it is shorting, it causes it to reboot.
They told me the same, That I had to measure the Ampere in the heated bed, But before I could do that, I tried printing again, and it did. Though the First time it did reboot itself after an hour or so, then the other prints have been printing fine.
But i think i’m just gonna have to unscrew the bed and measure the Ω.
@andyfaby PLA is among the cleaner and easiest to post process, I don’t think you’ll get what you’re expecting with other materials. Unless you’re saying that the current PLA you’re using is messier than it should be compared to other PLA?
@andyfaby you could use the setting in Cura called ironing, it’ll use the nozzle itself to melt the final top layer to make it smooth, the sides and where it was touching the build plate you’ll have to sand to a smooth finish. Then use XTC-3D to give it a shiny transparent coating.
As you can see, It’s not “fine” exactly, especially for the small things, The strings tend to be seen a lot.
I guess am gonna have to Motor-Sand this items for a better and smooth finish before Priming or Painting, Right?
When it comes to Printing, ABS vs PLA, which one comes off better with a smooth finish straight from the Printer?
Also, this is classic underextrusion, the top layer is not fully fused:
I’d 2nd the recommendation to get a few rolls of more quality filament and then do more machine calibration. Could be your flow is too low. Could be your esteps is off. Could be you need more infill density. Could be you need more solid top and bottom layers.
More testing required.
These layer lines will always be present given the layer height you’ve chosen:
Try a thinner layer height to reduce the impact of those. With imperfect calibration however just know that curling will be more likely with thin layers and could result in layer shifts and failed prints.
@andyfaby it’s a transparent epoxy that fills any striations between lines and leaves a smooth glossy finish, can be sanded but not required, can be sprayed with primer but also not required, it leaves a smooth paintable surface. This photo is a before and after from matterhackers.