Please help me...with this 3d print malfunction

Hey everyone. So I had been experiencing this issue everytime I tried to make a print and then it went away for a while…but now it’s back. I don’t konw why it went away nor do I know why it came back. But is there any way to fix it on my end permanently?

It’s probably a problem with Z calibration or leveling.

I think it looks great! :grinning:

It’s not though. It messes with model integrity. And I’m using Snapmaker Luban.

Snapmaker 2.0 A350 is the machine

Are you sure the underside of the model is perfectly flat?

I would recommend heating the buildplate to printing temp and let it sit for 20+ minutes before doing a z calibration while still heated… Also make sure the buildplate is clean…

1 Like

It should be flat. That’s the default file that is used to test the 3d print function on the Snapmaker. That’s why I’m wondering what’s been going on. I’ve owned this snapmaker since December of 2020 and it’s only started exhibiting this problem within the last few months. Do I need to reset the machine to factory settings?

Also, the build plate is very clean. I clean it often. I’ve also used the 3d print glue from the snapmaker website to make the first layer stick for certain.

It looks A) that you are printing slightly too high (use on-the-fly Z-Adjustment while the brim or skirt is printed), an B) that your printing bed is not level (use 6x6 bed calibration pattern).

1 Like

@SaraJade THIS^^^

I’m trying this now. In order to make sure that my printing bed is level do I need to buy new rails and everything? Or should I buy a new heated bed…or the bed support or both? I just bought a new print sheet.

There’s no need to buy anything new. Just run the calibrations and see if it solves the problem.

If not, what may be necessary is to tighten the linear modules, probably mainly of the Y-axis (that moves the print bed). This thread might be helpful (although it is on the X axis - the procedure is the same): Excessive play in x-axis linear module bracket - Also, there’s a wiki article on that:

The indication that you’d need to do this is if your print bed “rocks”/“wobbles” when it changes direction of movement.

If you’re printing in the center of the bed, that is not going to make a difference, and the issue would appear on both sides of the print.

And heating the bed for prolonged period before calibration has little effect as well. I’ve don’t enough calibration tests with a dial gauge, before and after heating, and there’s actually very little change in Z-axis.

We could now talk a lot about possibilities but this would not help SaraJade.
So, why not offer other possible solutions?
Your critical comments are not helpful and I guess you have the same poor information than each other who replied their help.

Because those are likely not going to help, and just cause her more grief. It’s more than likely just an adhesion issue. More glue or too much Z. I prefer to contribute accurate useful info when possible, rather than replying to EVERY thread with vague solutions (like you).

As you know, In the least threads are all information in the beginning that would be needed for a clean solution. So, the path is the goal.
Sometimes I am interested in software or machine behavior or figure out a user issue.
I don’t exclude that there is sometimes a other solution but I help to my best knowledge and belief.

It’s not an adhesion issue; you can see the that the extruded filament has not been pressed onto the bed.
Also, there is something else seriously going on; the extruded amount is varying giving it a basket-weave appearance. If you follow one line of extrusion you can see it going thick-thin-thick…

The distance between nozzle and buildsurface looks closer at the bottom part of the picture than the top…

  1. Preheat the bed for 20+ minutes, than do leveling and z calibration while still heated (with as many points as possible.
  2. Testprint while live adjusting the z-offset.
  3. If you cant get the first layer to look good, then there is probably some type of hardware issue. For example, it could be that the bed is not tight and wobbles when moving back and forth…

sorry for the drama.

straight up you have a z offset problem and a bed leveling issue.

leveling the bed: my best method is getting the bed to temp of the desired filament temp and run a 6x6 calibration.

about leveling expectations. you have the heater bed then you have the build plate. there is no guarantee anything is perfectly flat and level. depending on build plate and attaching points you can wind up with most anything. i had one pei plate that wasn’t magnetic that when heated had slight dome effect and that wasn’t in the center of the plate. i have had other build plates that sort of dipped in one section and popped in another that change with heat. the fact that your part isn’t really on the bed for part of the first layer says that we should try another bed level.

you can then do a z offset calibration with the card. this still may not feel right. at this point you can use z offset adjust in adjust settings when you start your print. adjust it, try with 5 layers or so and see if you need to try again and drop it down a little. you will find your sweet spot for your printer

finally, looking at our first layer. it is better for the z to be adjusted so that all of the first layer is pushed onto the build plate. even if its a little thin in spots.

@xchrisd and @Hauke have the right of it

and about bed temp for calibration.

i print a lot at 100 degrees. for a calibration it takes quite a long time to heat up to 100.

as a thermal mass the plates may report 100 and still be a little cooler in spots. because 100 is such a hard target to reach i let the bed sit another 10 minutes after it hits 100 before i even try to calibrate
for a print you can use control to set the bed to the desired temp for as long as you want then when you feel your ready start your print

things like having an enclosure helps. cold air effects a hot printer and bed.