SM2 Simplfiy3D profile

I have honestly not used the snapmaker software since I found simplify3d and someone last time posted a profile for the SM1 to be used with that, I was hoping someone was going to do that again as I am not competent enough to create such a profile myself!

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Would also like to see a selection of profiles for major slicers. There is the SM1 profile page, be nice to get an update on that. https://manual.snapmaker.com/3d_printing/faq/snapmaker-profile-for-cura-and-simplify3d.html

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Yes, I would prefer cura. Snapmakerjs (luban) has come a long way and I will use it for CNC and Laser, but for printing, I got used to cura and know what to set where for best results…

I analyzed the gcode from luban and made a Cura profile. Use this at your own risk. It is your own responsibility if you break your machine. I made this for the A350

Use at your own risk, no guarantees.

Machine Settings in Cura:

  • Rectangular x 320 y 350 z 330
  • Flavor Marlin

Start G-Code:

G28 ;Home
G90 ;absolute positioning
G1 X-10 Y-10 F3000
G1 Z0 F1800

;Prime the extruder
G92 E0
G1 E20 F200
G92 E0

End G-Code

M104 S0
M140 S0
G90
;Retract the filament
G92 E0
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z330 E-1 F80 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G1 X0 F3000 ;move X to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
G1 Y350 F3000 ;so the head is out of the way and Plate is moved forward
M84 ;steppers off

Good news: we will provide the profile for the Snapmaker 2.0 soon :smirk:

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@JKC20, could you be so kind as to explain what your role is at SnapMaker to us folks here on the forum? It would be good if all the SnapMaker employees who are lurking here to do a more complete introduction. :blush:

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Hi Tone, sorry for the confusion. I am the new media operations guy at Snapmaker and you can think of me as someone that can help you facilliate your conversation with our teams. I am also managing the forum to ensure the content is proper and non-misleading. A lot of folks here at Snapmaker are casually lurking the forum to provide help to users, but unlike me, they are quite busy with work at hand and they might show up on the forum from time to time XD. When they do show up, they will most likely handle your issues quickly. Hope this answers your question.

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@JKC20 welcome to the community

Does this mean that you are putting @Rainie out to pasture… she has earned a rest :rofl::joy::rofl:

Doug

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@JKC20, no confusion. Thanks for the intro. I think @Rainie is probably plenty loaded down with things to do. It’s nice to know when a SnapMaker employee speaks with knowledge that we know what their job is.

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@JKC20 Hey :wave: any timelines around the Simplify3D profile? Thanks

Hi Dojima, our plan is to publish the profiles this month. :grinning:

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I took my SM1 profile and changed the bed size in simplify3d. Worked a charm for me.

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That’s pretty much what i did as an initial step at first. Then I basically i generated a script from the Snapmaker SW and am using mostly that as a starting point for both the start/end scripts, and am tweaking settings so they are “more in-line” and “efficient”. for example S3D has settings in the Temperature tab to wait for it to “stabilize” before beginning the build. I’ve unchecked those in the settings and moved that to the “Starting Script” so that it can do stuff like Auto Home and such while the nozzle and bed are heating up.

Per some of the issues with the auto-detecting bed leveling, I tend to set my bed to 80C and leave it while prepping stuff to print, so the bed is at and has been at temp for a bit, so it doesn’t actually have to wait for that, since the auto-level detection is done in the firmware before any G-code is run (for now!). So it doesn’t actually have to wait.

Once i’m satisfied with a few levels of settings and speeds and scripts, I’ll post them as 100% unofficial profiles. As Rhynri said, if you use the SM original with new bed size, it SHOULD work fine, but always test carefully!

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So far, I’ve gone through 2x spools of filament with this profile (and close to it), so it’s what I will continue to use, and enough to share.

UNOFFICIAL. USE ARE YOUR OWN RISK!!! Snapmaker 2.0 - Med.fff (12.1 KB)

I accept NO responsibility for any mishaps or accidents or anything that happens to your machine if you import the provided profile and use it. Simplify3D is an advanced slicing program and it is expected that you understand the settings and scripting before you use it with your machine!!

Ok, that said, again this is what i’ve been using with my A350. I’ve been using S3D with my SM1 and CR-10 Mini for a long time. I started with the SM1 profile I had been using (which was originally the SM1 profile from the knowledge base) and updated the machine size, and stared to adapt the scripts based on the new SM Software and SM2 firmware quirks.

I don’t know exactly how much information is covered in the profile, but I will make a few notes of “important settings” IMO:

  • First Layer Height/Width/Speed: I’ve generally always used these settings (200%/200%/50%) or close to them. I’ve never had adhesion issues, so i’ve never had to print any skirts, rafts, or brims on the SM1, CR-10 (on any of the build surfaces i’ve used), and so far on the SM2 this has been fine. Especially with the auto-leveling and how that can be “off” slightly depending on heated vs unheated bed, and just not being super accurate in general, having a deep first layer “squished” into the bed makes for good adhesion without anything else printed. The tradeoff is: the first layer tends to have a slight “lip” that either needs to be shaved or sanded down if that’s not something that the model can handle having on there.

  • Wait for temp to stabilize (both the extruder and bed): You can have these checked or not. If you have them checked, it will wait for the temps to stabilize BEFORE the Starting G-code scripts run. if you uncheck them, you “need” to wait for the temps in the starting scripts (like i have it). This is one of the efficiencies from the original profile I changed.

I’ll repeat for clarity from the wall of text: If you uncheck the “Wait for temperature controller to stabilize” setting(s), you should set the “wait” G-code in the Starting script.

You also need to make sure that the temp that you set in the profile setting matches the “wait” value (or close to it). I run my filament “hot”, so you likely will see in the profile the temp set to 210C.

  • ISSUE: You should also notice (assuming the temp settings get imported) that I added a “set point” for level 0, and level 3. It appears that despite the M140 S50 setting existing in the resulting G-code, the SM2.0 firmware does not honor the new temp. What I see in a G-code file generated by the SM software is that at level 1 with the bed level temp change, it does a similar M140 S60, but it also does a M106 255 (sets the fan speed). I’ll experiment with setting the fan speed at the same layer, or setting at level 1 vs level 3.

  • GCODE tab: Just note the machine settings here (A350): X-320, Y-350, Z-330. Firmware: RepRap, Flip Build Plate Axis: Y. Options checked: 5D firmware, Allow zeroing of extrusion, support “sticky”.

  • Start script:
    ;Start GCode begin
    G28 ;home
    G1 X-10 Y-10 F3000
    G1 Z0 F1800
    M109 S210 ;Wait for Hotend Temperature
    M190 S60 ;Wait for Bed Temperature
    G92 E0
    G1 E20 F200
    G92 E0
    ;Start GCode end

  • End Script:
    ;End GCode begin
    M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
    M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
    G90 ;absolute positioning
    G92 E0
    G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle to release some of the pressure
    G1 Z330 E-1 F60 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
    G1 X0 F3000 ;move X to min end stops so the head is out of the way
    G1 Y350 F3000 ;so the head is out of the way and Plate is moved forward
    M84 ;steppers off
    ;End GCode end

Again, the start/end scripts are more/less the same as you would get from the G-code generated from the SM software (especially the End one). I even left the comments in there (though I fixed some of them because some wrapped to multiple lines). Generally for the startup I prefer the TH3D way of priming the filament, but I have not adapted this new script to do that quite yet.

  • Speed: lastly, the speed. Atm I have it set to 40mm/s. I’m sure it can go faster, and there is at least another thread talking about speeds. The “fast” from the SM software is 25mm/s. The SM1 specs report a printing speed of 100mm/s. I’ve gotten high quality results with the SM1 generally at 60-70mm/s. I haven’t experimented yet with higher speeds. I have a few rails that rattle with the steel strips, so I would like to get those adjusted first (waiting on those instructions!) or remove them before testing higher speeds. Plus on my CR-10 I have a Nimble for very high speed printing if needed. Generally i print everything at quite high quality, cuz I don’t care how long things take, so if it’s a bit slower, meh!

TIP: Preheat the bed.
Before starting the print, I set the bed temp to 80C and “wait” for that to come to temp. Generally i do other stuff, like decide on what i’m going to print and slice that, while the bed is heating up. If the bed is at 80C before you kick off the print with this profile, from what i’ve observed, for a “medium sized” file, but the time it’s loaded and done “parsing the G-code”, and doing it’s initial auto-leveling, the bed should be at 60C. Then the nozzle starts to heat up while the machine homes. When that is finished, the nozzle is at 140-150C and only has another 15-20 seconds to heat up before the print actually starts.

Since the bed takes FOREVER to heat up, doing the bed pre-heat not only saves time with starting the print (“fake” time i know, but still), but the nozzle heats up WAY faster, so if you start both at the same time, your nozzle is sitting at temp for several minutes (5 at least), letting your filament bake in, which is not good. Also as mentioned in the several leveling threads where people are having issues (luckily I haven’t had any), the bed can change shape slightly when heated.

Sorry for the wall of text, but hopefully this helps people and SM people in making the S3D profile and processing the G-code!

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Thanks for the profile and write up, working so far on A350. Much prefer to work in Simplify3D. :+1: as I do with my original SnapMaker.

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Many thanks for all your helpful input. I’ll be looking into using this configuration for my next print.

Thank you so much for this, been puling my hair out trying to get his to work. I will try your printer setup but modify it for my A250. I just have 2 questions for you:
1, Do you use the USB cable to print or do you save it as a gcode and print via USBkey?
2, If you use the USB cable methode, how do you level the bed?

Thank you,
Jonathan

I always export and use via USB Stick. I ran into a few small issues with this profile, currently I’m trying to get my A350 to the point of at least being as good as the original SnapMaker prints…

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