@magumbasauce This issue is usually if you don’t go out your way to eject the USB every time from your PC. I don’t have any problems hot swapping as long as I eject on the PC side.
In regards to the profile, I think it was actually other issues that were going on. However, I’ve been tweaking and compared it to the original SM profile and tweaked backwards. Eventually the sweet spot for me was the original SM profile + the custom gcode for the SM2. Now that you can disable the auto calibration before every print, I will probably remove the fixed heat up in the start up script so it can be based upon the export.
One issue that came up was that A350 was under extruding by about 9mm. Having fixed that greatly improved the top layer finish, which was one of the big issues for me.
I am new to this and not sure how the profile works. I have several issues regarding the Cura profile which I hope anyone can kindly assist and advise:
I have tried downloading the profile provided for Cura. There is an extension of “.txt” at the back of the file name, ie “Normal.curaprofile.txt”. It happened to all the profiles I tried downloading and redownloading. I also tried to import these files I downloaded, ie with the “.txt” at the back, but they cannot be imported or be recognised.
Do I still input the Start G-code and End G-code manually into the boxes of the Machine Settings of my newly added printer in Cura, following what was displayed on the webpage? Or do I just need to import the profile and the G-code would be automatically updated by the profile?
Under the Printhead Settings on the right column, there are “X min” and “Y min”, whereby we were advised to input the values of “20mm” and “10mm” respectively. By default, they were shown as “-20mm” and “-10mm” respectively. No matter how I tried to change it to “20mm” and “10mm”, they will return as “-20mm” and “-10mm”. The negative signs will never go away.
I then tried to do a test print with a default profile in the Cura slicer and with the “-20mm” and “-10mm” values. It turned out that the printhead will try to go beyond the 0,0 mark, ie negative values, and stuck there since it could not go anymore further to the left and bottom of 0,0 and then started to print. I immediately stopped the machine and ended the print job.
Thank you in advance to anyone who can kindly advise me on the issues above.
If i download the files, there is no txt ending.- here are the files: (Unfortunately the cura profiles had no ending so i can´t upload them directly) Simplify3D-MID QUALITY.fff (11.3 KB) Simplify3D-LOW QUALITY.fff (11.7 KB) Simplify3D-HIGH QUALITY.fff (11.7 KB) Cura_Profiles.rar (7.8 KB)
I think the txt comes from your system. I am using WIN10 and could delete the ending, if i want.
You have to put the gcode and nessecary things of your printer in. (The profiles above are just printing profiles, telling cura (the slicer) which parameter to use as standard.- look into it, open it with wordpad or so.
+4. may you tell us what printer do you have. Which version of cura and what PC do you use?
Really thank you very much for the files you provided. Truly appreciate your kind assistance.
Finally I was able to extract them as .curaprofile without any .txt. I have also successfully imported the profile into the Cura slicer software.
I am currently trying to figure out what to input into the machine settings. I have tried different lines of codes provided as there was no consistency between the examples shown on the website. There are this “M104 S205” and “M140 S70” shown in the box of A150 whereby when I scrolled further down, these two lines were missing. And also I am unable to change the “-20mm” to “20mm”.
I am using Snapmaker A150. Am using Cura 4.5.0, and my computer is an iMac.
M104 S205 means, heat the nozzle to 205°C
M140 S70 means, heat the bed to 70°C
This lines were standard in a older cura version i think.- The point is you preheat before the print, so the lines are useless (from my point of view)- you are prevented from cold extrusion through the firmware as well. Maybe it was a bit faster, heating before homing?-thats it.
i also can´t change the printhead lines anyway on WIN10 Cura 4.5.0
I think you should forget the “-” index, that was a different version.
I have tried to add new machine again and saved a new gcode file. However still having the same issue:
nozzle temperature is 0, actual temperature is 35-37. I tried adjusting the temperature manually to 205, the temperature just kept repeating in this sequence: 35, 36, 37, and then drop back to 35, and repeat. Bed was set to 70 and successfully heated to 70 while the nozzle still stayed at 35-37.
I tried to stop the print. After the first time stopping, it would hang before I could press stop again to confirm.
I did the above twice. The second time, prior to printing and immediately after pressing start to resume, a yellow warning popped up saying “Machine is not responding, would you like to reconnect?”. I chose reconnect and then it proceeded to the issues I stated above.
Hey @2Bpencil
There are slicer´s which preheat the bed first and after successfully preheated they start preheating the Printhead., check this or post your gcode to the forum, oneclickhoster, googledrive or what else, pls.
Prior to pressing start, the nozzle temperature setting is 205 and bed at 70.
After pressing start, nozzle is at 35-37 where the temperature is 0 again. The bed setting remains at 70 with the temperature rising gradually.
I pressed pause instead of stop this time. Everything then hang again for about five minutes before I can choose to resume or stop. I selected resume.
The bed temperature has reached 71 after I pressed resume and the nozzle temperature still 37. Suddenly the print head started moving in mid-air, presuming it is printing but at home position. The screen also suddenly shows that the print has completed 21% when nothing was printed actually.
After “printing” in mid-air for about one minute, the print head lowered itself to about 10cm from the bed and continue printing. All along no filament came out because the nozzle temperature was at 37.
Hey, i think the problem is the M105 (for reporting the temp.s anywhere). i can´t find a option in cura to avoid it. Try to delete the lines with M105 and try it again!- After preheating it should go to homeposition and then to print position.
From the gcode i see you make something like a quader ~50x50x50mm, right?
Ah, thank you. I did not know that we can read gcode with just a simple word editor.
Yes, it is a Darth Vader emitter shroud
My fourth attempt:
Yes! Finally the nozzle temperature kicks in immediately after the bed has reached 70 this time! I was crossing my fingers hoping that the print head will move to the 0,0 position and proceed to print at the working area, ie center. And I was so ecstatically happy that finally I can get a gcode generated from Cura to print! It is my very first successful print from Cura after so many trials since last month.
Thank you so very much @xchrisd for all your precious time and kind assistance. I truly appreciate it very much! I have learnt a great deal of stuff today thanks to you
One question:
Is this M105 thing going to be an ongoing issue?
I am going to try a different file and see how it goes with the gcode generating.
There is a known issue about failing with a few gcode commands.
May you send your code to the support?- I think this would be helpful for the next firmware updates.
I would suggest so, send them the failing gcode and write, it´s because of the M105 command.
You are using Snapmaker A150 firmware Vxxx and Touchscreen Vxxx.
Additionally i would post it in the firmware suggestion thread on the forum.- sry i can´t find it so fast, i have to go now. sry again!
Thanks @magumbasauce for posting the initial profiles. This worked great and helped me dial in my first print. A bit of feedback from a guy who has been running and building 3d printers for 10 years.
I use Simplify3D, it took me a moment to see how to connect Luban to the printer via WIFI and then send the gcode file. I expected the printer to start printing. After 15m of not hearing movement I see you need to confirm the print on the touchscreen. Seems unnecessary.
On my first print attempt the nozzle “air printed” about 10mm above the bed. I stopped the print and ran the bed calibration wizard. I forgot to do this after upgrading the firmware. I am hoping I do not have to do this every time I turn the printer on.
Re-uploaded the file and approved the print again. This time everything worked perfectly. A clean print. With @magumbasauce’s profile, the Ending Script move of the Z-axis to 330 is done a “F60” which for me was mega-slow. I increased this speed to F1600 but anything is better than 60
I can’t remove my calibration block from the printbed… wow… I have been using PrintBite surfaces for almost 10 years now so I am used to the easy release when things cool down. I am not even sure how to break this free but I will take this over not sticking or mid-print release anyday. Ha!
Overall, first printing experience is great. I’ve created several new profiles in S3D and will continue to play with speed and detail settings.
sweet! glad it worked out. And yea def the F60 is SUPER slow and i’ve long moved it to like F3000. There are a few other S3D scripts floating around the forums too that are useful. I’m working on like a “complete” setup rework and guide, but it’s taking a while because i’m doing quite a few things and haven’t had too much time for that. once that’s done i’ll post it all which will include some new scripts which combine a bunch of the scripts from things i’ve done and found.
For the most part as long as it works, don’t mess with it!
)
