Random HELP - Ask here!

Hey @michaelelandry, this is a known issue and they work on it.
I´m not sure, which machine do you have?
The problem is that the touchscreen could not disconnect the drive like windows “throw out”.

The drive has to be formatted in fat32, i think too big drives and maybe even USB3 make problems.
I have my A350 not yet so i could just think about it.
There are several other threads for example:

It seems that the screen cannot read a USB flash drive with a memory capacity exceeding 64GB. Please use a 16 GB FAT32 USB flash drive.

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Hi everyone! I have a problem in the filament change:
I remove the old filament and when placing the new one it does not come out through the nozzle. I have pressed the button on the front and I have to make a lot of force to press it; but I don’t mind it coming out the end.
I will appreciate any advice to solve this problem
Maria

You are supposed to press the button on the front when you insert new filament. It does take a bit of pressure to press the button, you are not doing anything wrong :grinning:

Yes.
I have pressed the button on the front and I have to make a lot of force to press it; but I don’t mind it coming out the end.

Newbie here. Working hard to learn quickly, but I’m stuck.

I’ve had a lot of trouble getting the print to stick to the bed. I’ve tried all the tips in the FAQ. Support said to try taking the initial print speed down to 8 mm/s.

Attached image is the result:

But wait there’s more…
The start of the print where the excess filament is wiped on the side of the bed… it comes across too high now and I have to quickly knife off the filament.

I keep trying to print more and more simple prints to get something to work, but there is always an issue resulting in the filament bunching up around the nozzle.

Now that I’m through about every youtube video available I’m at a loss.

It is almost like the machine is losing accuracy between calibration and printing… or at some point during printing. I’ve tried tightening screws even. Ugh!

Anyone have a print that I can try that would really help debug things or something?

Hey @domainerdrew, it seems your filament didn´t stick to the previous layer, is this right?
What speeds and temperatures did you run?
Which slicer did you use?

I have a bit understanding problems of your post.- You faced your leveling problem and it work now, right?

Correct. Filament either doesn’t stick to the base and/or doesn’t stick to the previous layer.

I have varied speeds. Temp 200 deg for the PLA filament that came with the printer (brand new).

SnapmakerJS is the software (slicer correct?).

I was approaching this thinking it was a leveling issue. Now I’m at a loss.

:warning: One thing I’m noticing, the filament curls up against the nozzle when it comes out. It doesn’t seem to just go straight down, like I assume it should.

ok, you have to do more bed calibration :wink:
be shure there is no filament on and out of the nozzle, the calibrate again. This is a bit tricky at the beginning of 3d printing but if you know how it works, next times are easy.

I’ve probably calibrated the thing 100 times. Literally if I touch anything around the machine I will check calibration.

I have tried calibrating just a bit more snug… and just a bit less snug.

Basically, calibration by itself can not be the issue. If it is then the machine is defective.

comments like this make me sad, i want to help you and trust me, from this spot i see, your machine works.

3d printing is DIY, read a few threads in the forum, look YT-Videos and finally you will get it on.

Now i see from your picture, the brim doesn´t stick?- AAAahhh if i knew this before.

May you write here the response of the printer if giving it a M503 through the terminal of luban?

How exactly do you check it?
Also, tell us what your climate is like, humid?

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I’ll try to get this tonight. I’ll be away from the printer for a bit. I needed a cool off period… I was pretty frustrated.

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I use the build in calibration with the provided card and online instructions.

It is pretty dry, the room uses baseboard heat At first the room was cool. However, I was worried the filament was cooling to quickly so I took the rooms temperature up to like 78.

You talking Manual calibration, Auto? Just redoing the calibration is not a good “check”.

I’m on Snapmaker 1, there is only a manual calibration.

It remains rather consistent (as it should).

Only real variables right now are temperatures, speeds, and filament. Of course that leaves a lot open. :slight_smile:

Clear your printplate to make it sticky.- Even gluestick is allowed.
Print the first layer with 10-20mm/s.
First layer height could be 100% if you print 0,2mm layer height.- i would recommened 0,2mm to start.
First layer width, 120% is good if you have sticking problems.
Bed temp,- I use 60°C most of my prints.
Print speed for the rest of the print, depends on filament, 40-60mm/s recommened.
Filament temp. For the original 190-210 works great for me the most time.
Hope this helps!

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I’ll run through those settings tonight.

I’ve seen a lot of videos that have said they use glue stick… I just was really hoping it wouldn’t be needed on a brand new machine. Seems like a bit of a failure for it to be needed.

Has anyone ever created like a silicone cover or something? Something that has some tackiness to it?

I use gluestick for abs.
If you are not able to level your machine right, you should not be afraid of it. That’s what I said.

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It seems that glue-stick and a warmer base have helped. I also cleaned the nozzle again.

All-in-all, I at least feel like I’m able to move forward from here.

Thank you for your help.

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