I had my little brother make up up a cable for this sensor swapout and had him solder up one of my older modules.
The 2.5 module, as i feared, does have a different board.
Old board is SPB0003 V. 2.0
New board is SPB0009 V 1.0
I can only hope that I can still use the old eboard on the new module, i cant imagine it owuld cause a problem yeah?
Perhaps ill just install the board into the older module.
I had ordered an extra head to do this mod, was a 2.0. So I never opened my 2.5 head and saw the difference. If connected to the right connector it should still work. What may be in question is the voltages.
I do take into immediate note that there is one less connector on the updated board, and sensor doesnāt seem to be marked on it like the SPB0003 2.0 either.
Oh, there is another connecter, it came off the board with the plug naturally. It went back on there, so I am not going to worry about it.
I opted to reassemble my 2.5 as is and added the mod to a 2.0 board along with a new fan
However, the process failed, but we think we see the problem so he is going to try again.
Nice having a little brother to make do things for you.
Doing this mod on a 2.5 would probably be easier anyhow, there is more room to run the new cable assembly.
@MooseJuice i was originally intending to ask you to pull off the plate, but opted not to since you were going to slap it back together.
Luckily itās a through-hole soldering for the P1 which is among the easiest. I actually have a spare 2.5 head and spare ir sensor. I bought an extra sensor in case I screwed up because my surgery has weakened my strength in both arms until I fully recover so it has caused me to develop severe tremors. Luckily I didnāt mess up so I still have them as spares. I may do it on the 2.5 and see how it works. I donāt foresee any problems but I also havenāt seen if the logic is still the same or not. But it would be idiotic id it wasnāt.
Also yeah upon zooming in, I see where the connector came off. Was it a weak soldering joint? It could cause issues down the road if thatās the case, as putting it back on without redoing the soldering will effectively be turned into a cold joint. But if the connector housing came off but the pins stayed on the board all is good.
The pins appear to be soldered well, the plastic housing simply came off
I truly dont imagine the board acts any differently, and was just a redesign to shrink it (a good thing really, space is a premium in there).
However, I just didnt wana try to put the old board in the new head, it made more sense to just put it in an old one. I like the new head actually, but its not quite as good as external cooling still.
My brother evidently had the pins backwards on the 3 pole 2 conductor plug so hopefully it did not fry the little IR board.
If you want to see under the plate/(cooling plate) to see whats under it I would be ok with removing it when i have my newly upgraded head back.
@MooseJuice good. I honestly couldnāt tell, the angle of the camera made the pins blend into the soldering joints.
I think they just used an optimized and scaled down board with shorter traces. Thatās just a guess though, canāt see much with the plate. The capacitor is the same too. The 2.5 should be easier to do it on. Hmmā¦
If nothing else like i said it gives a little more space for the extra wire 
My brotherās cable had a lot of heat shrink on it and it was a tight fit.
I could have just done it myself, but little resistors and diodes are not in my forte. I know sensors, and controllers and stuff, but not components well. I can soldier, and wire up my own splitter for the fan mod which came out pretty nicely, but when you got a little brother who went to school for it, may as well put em to work.
@MooseJuice components are literally my expertise. But I struggle with small stuff sometimes, thatās why I have a little robotic soldering machine, but it needs a new tip and theyāre out of stock so I had to resort to doing it manually.
I would love to have a little robotic soldiering machineā¦
Once I am done with this mod, next up will be to track down Brentās 110vac heated bed mod. I think its probably relatively easy but will require killing one to get the cable I think. I guess I can probably unsoldier it from the bed tho
750W heater 
, Yea cannibalized a spare cable I bought for the purpose. Bed shares a plug with the enclosure cable.
Interesting redesign of the controller.
@MooseJuice just get a desoldering/rework heat gun, itāll come off easier than you think. It can be soldered back on later if needed.
The little robot I have is on RobotDigg for around $5k. Itās a pick and place.
https://www.robotdigg.com/m/product/1644/KAYO-D2V-Desktop-Automatic-SMT-PnP-Machine#
@WilliamBosacker for Snapmaker? What kind of ācustomā we talking about? My interest is piqued.
@WilliamBosacker it seems youāre more in the loop than I am. I know of stuff that I havenāt said because they havenāt announced it yet. Iāve talked to a couple of their engineers a few times for various reasons. But I did not know of modularity like a raspberry pi, that would be awesome. I only used raspberry pi as an example, not saying thatās how it might be done.
Aww yiss. I plugged in my constructued 3d print head w/ sensor and its working!
Thats nice. wont be as muchh hassle to calibrate now.
just need to do preheats first but dont have to worry about the fifix anymore 
Also, wow!
I am impressed, my prints are coming out a lot better.
I didnt change a single setting, just recalibrated, and the āsquishā is like dead consistant all the way around.
I printed this same thing yesterday with a .04 gap around my part before a brim for easy removal and it was still fused, now it was dead nuts.
Very cool 
@MooseJuice amazing isnāt it!?
You did good. You should try to sell these cables and IR boards with a simple to apply lead to the 3.3 terminal to the community here. Its not something alot of people would feel comfortable doing but EVERYONE would benefit from.
Optionally the 3d printed parts but makers should be able to handle that!
Would it be possible to convert the 24 to 3.3 with resistance for no soldering?
@MooseJuice This was @stewlās work. I cannot in any way take credit. Iām an engineer yes, but heās the one that came up with it.
Iām going to work on doing it on the 2.5 head and update stewl with the results and any modifications needed, if any, so he can include it in the original write up. Iād like them to be together in the same place for both versions to prevent any confusion.
As far as no solderingā¦ that may not be possible. You still have to solder it to P1 for power.
So does this effectively prove the current sensor just is not reliable / precise enough?
@WilliamBosacker to add to this, inductive sensors like the stock z probe are typically used as limit sensors as theyāre far more accurate and reliable than mechanical switches. Used for leveling and calibration? Not so much. They donāt detect the actual print surface, they detect the plate inside the sticker bed, and with variations of the sticker itself, the accuracy will vary.
