I’m not sure i’d say that. Ive been making due just fine all the time.
However, it is a night and day improvement.
Its up like upgrading to first class, except it costs about 50 bucks instead of a couple hundred and requires some skills 
@MooseJuice since you had both heads open, would the parts that need to be printed fit the 2.5? I haven’t opened my 2.5 yet so I have no idea.
They fit fine. I had them installed.
I undid the work because i didnt wana stick the larger board in the newer head. I think it would fit in there too, but didnt wana screw with it once i discovered the difference.
If nothing else you have a little more space to work with in there with the smaller board.
Now my biggest complaint is I have to pre-heat my table before printing anything since the damn thing warps back to position and takes time to warp again.
That problem would require a new platform, and I think that id rather upgrade the heater first, but maybe i can do two with one stone.
I also have installed the external fan mod, but used the prints generated by Nivmeki 3DP Part Cooling Fan 5015 Replacement - #252 by nivekmai
This also goes nicely together with the sensor mod. However, the nozzle as designed prints so thin on the curves that the model is no longer solid and has some slices on it, so I wiould like to also look at finding the files for those two pieces and fattening them up.
This system is quite nice for removing the fan easily.
@MooseJuice are you printing on glass?
@WilliamBosacker I am only meaning reliable in that if i do say a 5 x 5 mesh and then do one sometime later that the results are close enough to being the same results in terms of margin of error for an excellent calibration mesh (same bed, same head, nothing changed).
@MooseJuice night and day difference means a big difference to me and this device is a first class device i would expect (we don’t always get what we expect, lol) to have that level of performance out of the gate. Once you guys have finalized the design / approach, fairly confident I could do the soldering work etc. Looking forward to seeing final write up for head 2.5 (i would order new head too, in case of my BS over confidence 
) But i would happily pay for a new head from snapmaker with IR sensor that is ‘night and day’ different. (also interested to understand the IR PCB, having recently tested designing a PCB and getting it made by JLPCB maybe we can get it small and pre-made for folks).
I have been doing calibration (cold and hot) and bringing meshes into excel to plot the mesh and calculate and plot the difference between hot and cold - very interesting.
I was asking about the consistency of the current sensor to help me understand what i am seeing. I have no thesis or conclusion yet - just learning what the data means thanks for all your help and entertaining my stupid new user questions!
I will work on this and hopefully have it done by next weekend, my dad hurt his back very badly this morning so I’m having to travel back and forth from my house to his to help him and my mom out so this may be delayed and apologize ahead of time if it is.
If a write up is necessary because of it requiring any changes, the write up I’m going to do is going to be given directly to @stewl so he can bundle it with his original write up, I want to keep them together so we don’t confuse people about which is which.
I will also have included a separate write up for the efficacy of the thermal pad on the glass instead of clips or tape, I’m going to take thermal readings of the glass to see what difference the thermal pad makes in relation to heat transfer to the glass, whether the results are improvement or actually worse, the latter being unlikely.
I’m starting to get off topic though and this will be the last mention of the silicone on glass. As for the sensor, I’m going to use my S5 to print the needed parts out of ASA to eliminate any chance of them warping (I’ve never done ASA so…) from heat because of needed temps for various materials.
That’s great, happy to add your v2 update. I will change my my document and credit you with the v2 work. Put in in Google docs and Thingiverse.
Interested in the thermal pad result. I loved the low cost and the way it stuck the bed down so firmly without and other clips or tape. Clips in my view are bad as they distort the glass and cause catastrophic accidents when the head hits them. My preferred low tech solution of small pieces of blue tape seems to work fine without those problems.
My v1 head printed petG parts have been in place now for months without any distortion on 24 hour prints at 80c for the bed. I haven’t tried to print ABS yet though - way too hard without an enclosure.
Yes sir. Glass bed.
My glass bed (i have both pyrex and traditional versions) has kapton tape on the under size and placed directly on the heated bed. I made some quick little clips to hold it down, works well enough. You have some thing else?
I felt the heat distribution was better when i used to have the ineffective magnetic sheeting under it to be honest, but its not so bad really. i think the pyrex is a little nicer than regular but havent done much measurement yet. just have them for goofing around on a rainy day.
I also have a heat-reflective insulation on the underside of the heated bed to bounce the heat loss back up from the under side.
@scyto Unfortuantely, it is not a first class device. hence all the upgrades. even so, each one i do makes it alot better.
@MooseJuice i still haven’t taken my 2.5 head apart, seeing as you have, do you think there’s enough room inside the head to be able to solder on a screw terminal block to the p row so all we need to do is screw fit the cable to the board instead of soldering it directly to the board? This way, if the sensor goes bad(or you want to take it off) it’s an easy swap instead of having to do any soldering.
I am not so sure about if you could fit a screw terminal on there or not, i think if its a very low profile probably, but - per the instructions, a dupont connector on a lead works pretty good and allows for removal.
I dont think it would fit any differently than the 2.0 board would in that regard, is basically the same but a little bit shorter. ill show u a pic of a cable i got, my brother made spare
If you had a dupont socket on a short lead, i know she’ll fit for sure,
then you can just plug it into the cable
@MooseJuice i was just thinking with regard to how screw terminal would hold it more securely than a DuPont, yet still easily removable. I was out of DuPont when I did my first one so I had to improvise
OK. Well, i can take a look at it
ill update this in a moment.
@MooseJuice dont take your head apart on my account 
its 4 screws, not a big deal.
So you got about .200 but could always space out the end plate with a ring to make it taller even.
If it had a stubby profile it would probably work pretty good, but theres R7 nearby so it would need to be short of that. from pin center to R7 it measure approx another .2"
the under side of it, on the other hand, has that heat sync plate over it so that would be harder.
as you can see, theres tons of space next to the board.
Are these for the microchips to be programmed, or maybe what are they for even?
You could always use a different connector, like a small molex or something as well.
Let me know if you end up putting a block on there that sounds interesting
@MooseJuice lol you really didn’t have to do that. Thank you though. I just thought of something else, I don’t want to have to replace the silicone pad on the bottom of the plate, that’s a crap ton, so DuPont it is!