and selling my original. This thing just develops problems out of nowhere. I tried to do smoe prints today. The filament just oozed all over the nozzle. I checked and found the nozzle depositing the filament about 3-4 mm above the build plate. So I popped a new nozzle on it. Then I made sure the sensor distance was correct to run auto calibration. The head buried itself in the bed on the first point then went to the center. Okay, so I’ll manually calibrate it. Did a 5x5 manual calibration and was able to print my piece. Attempted to print the exact same file and it wouldn’t print. The bed heated up, the nozzle heated up. then both values went to 0. So I rebooted the machine. Attempted to print the file again and the nozzle is printing 3-4mm above the bed again. WTF!
I’m thinking that Snapmaker should go into business with Pimax.
The suggestion I would make is keeping an eye on the prox sensor whenever adjusting the Nozzle or hotend. It has a tendency to move in the slot even without trying, as there is a slot that it sits in. Check and make sure the set screw is snug, as well. Then you can verify light comes on when the sensor is near the bed. You have to remove the side plate to see it, though. Whenever the system sees a problem with the sensor it defaults to the center position.
I never used the SM1, so I can’t speak to any similarities. Hope that helps.
The snapmaker gremlins are really in full force.
I am totally frusterated with it some days, then others its fine.
A very finicky beast.
I think Benson has the right ideas there, and outside of that what firmware do you have?
Latest firmware. The light comes on yet the head just keeps on its merry downward path. Tried setting up auto calibration a few months ago with the same results.
Maybe it’s just me…
First $900US plus shipping can have it.
i wonder if the connector from the sensor to the inner board is bad, alot of ppl have pins coming out from the hotend, it could be the same situation
Does the sensor have anything to do with the manual calibration? After a manual calibration the first print is fine. But if I try a second print (with the same file or another one) it prints 4mm above the bed. For some reason it’s not maintaining the calibration.
I just removed the print head and ran an auto calibration. I placed the head on the plate during the first point. The sensor light never came on. Maybe it got broken being driven into the bed too many times.
How do I get a new sensor? What is the diagnostic process for determining if it is sensor, harness, or module fault?
I think you’re going to have to talk to support.
The thing is - if you sell your machine, the next person does not get any warranty, so if you really want to bail you gota get this thing up to snuff first.
You can rig up a limit switch to the contacts inside if you really want to make it work. we can work together to figure out which pins are which if you want to go through that.
Regarding the weird issue with the z level, i had that happen to me one time. not sure what the issue is. that was during me running a custom 11 x 11 calibration.
Now what the forum likes to say is that firmware 1.9 is significantly more stable, and i would say try to roll back to that to see if the issue goes away with the offset changing.
Its a 3-wire switch so I don’t think a limit switch is going to work.
BTW I got this from a guy in the Snapmaker Reddit. I believed his story that everything works great but I just don’t use the other features so it’s wasted money for me. My first internet buy burn.
It will work, you can connect ground to the signal input to activate. its an npn type sensor. brent has tested this previously so its all good.
sorry to hear that… its a real bear and we are all trying to get through it together. support is slow to respond, and seems to be willing to replace some components up to a point, but after a few issues they start blowing you off.
im about at my wits end for the day with the thing to be honest. its been a long tough day.
with that said, they wont sell you a sensor, but the 3dp module is $115.
any 24vdc NPN type output prox sensor will work though, ideally 1mm sensing range. we havent really tracked down the full part number yet to find the direct replacement.
I have the sensor out. It’s definitely mushed. Looks like it’s just glued to the support bracket. I’m going to try removing it and get some numbers off of it. Actually a physical contact switch would be better because I bought a glass bedplate to try out.
Nice. i also got a glass bed. just started playing with it today.
I am using one of these (designed by member stefix) for calibration with the prox.
FiFix - The ultimative Levelingtool for Snapmaker 2.0 by Schnapsmaker - Thingiverse
i cant help but sing its praises, such a clever little thing.
I think I’m going to try a touch sensor if all I need is 2 of the wires.
yeesh… a touch sensor might be cool.
I started a new post asking for the part #. It’s there but burnt on mine. Easy to get to if anyone is willing.
thanks atom 
he had started a new thread to find that and we got it, it appears to be an oem part, so he was looking at alternatives.
in the process, i discovered how stupid the part cooling system is, when you adjust the prox sensor the fan no longer is attached to the cooling chute because the sensor is attached to it.
Oops guess I should have looked at that thread first 🤷