Mine got mushed then burnt during a failed print head calibration. Really bad (official) instructions caused me to bury the nozzle into the head. If anyone can tell me the part # I would appreciate it. It requires taking off the side plate, removing the replaceable hot end, then removing 3 screws to gain access to it. I had mine out in about 5 minutes, Unfortunately the side that got hot and melted had the part # on it.
Let me know.
Thanks.
John
I guess i can do it, i have a spare head anyhow.
gime a bit
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Thatâs great. I imagine youâve had your head apart before. Iâm a mechanic so taking stuff apart is just a normal day for me; so hit me up if you need help.
I have a bit, but not this part.
I now understand how the âpart coolingâ works, and can see potential for a new type of upgrade.
Baolsen N3F-H2NA
@brent113 present for you
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There it is. Thanks! Gonna go see if I can hunt it down. Iâll let you know
This thing is hilariously bad
so the cooling duct slides into the fan outputâŠ
then the prox mounts to the duct
so then if you have to move the prox out, the duct is no longer in the fan.
Kind of poorly thought out it seems. It also puts the sensor dangerously close to the hot end. When I got this the hot end was messed up to the point that the wires were starting to melt and pull out. That may have been what started the issue Iâm having. I found the supplier.
Yeah its like literally the prox in the proper position and the airchute doesnt connect anymore, like 1 mm too short.
i wonder if fixing that would help any.
i have the added blower fan on my print head, id be curious to see if printing a new prox holder/chute with a longer insert to the fan would be a huge improvement or not noticable
I print with PETG so I set the cooling fan to 10% in Cura. It may help with PLA though.
Looking like the sensor might be hard to get. Seems to be sold by one Chinese company. Not good.
Yeah it could be a part designed for snapmaker.
Shouldnât be too hard to find a different sensor to use, even if you have to print an adaptor to hold it
alot of oem situations like that in the sensor world
they might sell it to you if you email em tho.
snapmaker wants their 115 bucks for a new print head so maybe they wont.
Looks like a dead ringer about, probably will be fine as long as it meets the criteria mentioned earlier
do us a favor if you get that and it works well, update this post with the p/n and link 
In Germany it is possibly to purchase it but its over 50âŹ. I decided to use a microswitch instead.
Found this on Amazon for $25. It has a 2.5mm sense range. Would that be an issue?
Amazon.com: PANASONIC EW GX-H8A SENSOR, INDUCTIVE, 2.5MM, 12V-24V: Industrial & Scientific
How well does the switch work? Is it accurate? Do you have pics and a part number for you mod?
I dont think it would be a problem at all
it might be a bonus
you can still adjust the z-offset, it would just sense from further away
if youâre really lucky it might sense thru the glass 
Also if you wana persue a switch, brent pointed out this mod in the FiFix thread involving an allen key:
For all who want level on glass - Snapmaker 2.0 - Snapmaker: where creation happens
I like the idea of it being able to sense thru the glass. I just took a closer look at the fan duct. It seems like they tried to fix an oops. Not a very good job. At first I dint realize that was the heatsink fan. I though it was the part cooling fan. No wonder this thing burned up.
yeah it was like an after thought to try to add extra part cooling from the heat sink
Now, i cant promise that 2.5mm is gonna be enough to see thru it, but if the target is steel the sensing range will exceed the 2.5 mm as opposed to non-ferrous metals, so it might be doable.