So I’m making a filtering funnel (PLA) and want to imbed a nylon mesh into the print. The mesh itself is about 0.34 mm in thickness. I was considering making the layer levels 0.35 mm, then putting a pause in the g-code at the correct level. When it pauses, I would quickly lay in the mesh, then allow it to continue.
I’ve got no experience with this sort of procedure, and have a couple of questions.
Does the touchscreen put up a button to show that it’s been paused and allow you to continue the print?
Would I have to “anchor” it in place somehow?
Anyone have any experience in doing something like this?
I’ve looked online and all the tutorials that I could find were about embedding nuts, bolts, magnets and things like that in the print, but no mesh.
Yes, if you use M600 and are on a sufficiently recent firmware.
For the specific design you’re talking about I think it’d be easier to make a 2 part funnel that clamps together with screws that holds the mesh in place
There’s many different types of features that could be used to ensure water tight assembly, like an oring groove, a positive and negative mating groove, gasket maker…
If you must embed, I can’t think of a way to keep it from shifting. Maybe using a heat gun to melt the plastic slightly and pushing the mesh into it. Maybe extending the mesh out the sides, folding it over, and taping it down?
.35mm is pushing the maximum height for that nozzle. Maximum layer height is recommended at no more than 80% of the nozzle diameter.
You have three interrelated things to get right:
(1) The plastic must flood the interior of the mesh to bond its fibers to the printed body.
(2) The plastic in the mesh must bond to the lower part of the printed body.
(3) The plastic in the mesh must bond to the upper part of the printed body.
I don’t think you can do all three with just a pause. The problem you’ll have is that any step where you pause, you’re relying on the print head to accomplish both (1) and (2) with the same pass. That means that the molten plastic has to both pass through the mesh and remain molten enough to bond to the underlying layer. That’s already asking a lot, but also the plastic will cool off when it hits the mesh because the mesh has some heat capacity. It might work if you turn up the temperature on the nozzle just for that one pass, but that’s problematic.
I’d recommend printing the piece in three parts. The first is a simple print to embed plastic into the mesh, performed at a higher temperature and only one or two layers thick. Use an embroidery hoop to keep the mesh taught and flat against the print bend; you need to clamp the hoop down as well. The second is the lower (say) at regular print temperatures, with a higher initial z-height. Then flip the whole thing over and print the third, also with adjusted initial z-height. The second and third step are extruding molten plastic onto the (solid) plastic already embedded in the mess, which will allow good layer adhesion.
@eh9 thats not as much of a problem as implied. I have multiple IDEX machines and that would be the same as doing the M600, they bond just fine when printing multicolor. I’ve seen people embed nylon mesh before with IDEX, I’ll have to search around for the posts. However… because it’s a funnel it really would be best to do it in multiple parts.
I found an article that goes a little bit in how to do a mesh In between layers of a print.
I was able to imbed the mesh into the print, but it was a pain in the rear, as there was no way to hold it down while it was printing. I’m thinking of trying to setup some sort of g-code that will print or press the head into the mesh and print to tack it in place so that it holds when the overlaying print is going.