I tried to make something using the hatchbox wood filament. Unfortunately the nozzle clogged about halfway through my print. Is there a larger-diameter nozzle I can use on the snapmaker original? I still have the extra nozzle that came in the box but I was wondering if there is a US source to get some more.
Those threads have some good links and tips.
You can also increase the temperature on the print, to help liquefy the media a bit. I used the stock .4 nozzle, and never had a jam… but jams are a distinct possibility when using media with inclusions (such as wood pulp).
Hatchbox claims that you do not need to have a hardened nozzle for their wood-impregnated media, though a .5 nozzle will help prevent clogging. Just make sure you get the right nozzle, people have said that snapmaker uses an E3 nozzle… that is incorrect. I believe the snapmaker uses an mk8 nozzle (going my memory here, you might want to double-check that).
If you use a larger nozzle, you also have to use Cura to slice as SM Luban or JS doesn’t currently support a nozzle size change.
Not sure what that means but I’ll look it up. I orderered an assortment of MK8 nozzles. I will also try upping the temperature some before I swap nozzle sizes. I’ll give that a go this evening as the new nozzles won’t be here till tomorrow. Thanks for all the info guys.
As a note, retractions increase the change of you having a clog. I ended up getting a hatchbox wood print without clogs by setting retraction to 0. Now this did mean that I had a lot more (and larger) ‘nerds’ on the surface due to the oozing, but I had very little stringing issues and no cloigs. Plus the “nerds” were able to be knocked off with a bit of rubbing/scraping and then we took sandpaper lightly to the surface.
So the take away is
- Use a large nozzle (.5 or .6) because of added material in the filament.
- Increase the temperature about 10 degree to keep the material liquified.
- Learn how to use Cura and find out what Luban is to use a larger nozzle.
- Decrease retraction. Not sure why. What’s the reasoning behind it? The part has some deep knurling so I’m concerned that blobs of material may be more problematic than on a smooth surface.
I turned it off because it meant that pressure was maintained in the nozzle. When the machine retracts, the particles can settle and have a higher risk of clogging. By doing this I managed to get a good print with a .4 nozzle. My retraction setting prior to trying that were at 2mm. I’ll likely try again with a 1mm retraction to see if that lets me get a good print with less tiny blobs.
I will say that the tiny blobs were more again to bits of extruded material. Thus why they were super easy to knock off the finished piece. The print I did this on was the Druid mug from Mythic Mugs.