Need ideas to correct printing issues I'm currently seeing

you could rename it before to get sure its the right file.

It loads to the USB as one file but when I go to load it on the printer it shows up as 2 files. I’m printing now. We should know something soon.

I see the excellent xchrisd is on it. :grinning:

I pulled in the Gcode - if you go layer by layer in the preview you can see in that area some odd movement of the nozzle. Did you design this? Do you know the exact wall thickness?

increase your extrusion settings in the filament setup to 110 or 115… or maybe xchrisd already got this for you.

If you design your own STL’s using fusion, etc, keep in mind wall thicknesses are best as a multiplier of the nozzle width. If something is thin, and this is not the case, then the slicer does it’s best in dividing it

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@xchrisd, @NilartPax

Same SSDD and gcode!

Although the print looks better I’m still seeing artifacts but they’ve moved in location on the print by 20 degrees in location. This is probably due to when the printhead changes direction.

I videoed the print and noticed the the touch screen is flickering in the temp settings, I will look to see if I can snap a picture of it from the video.

Thank you again guys for helping me with this.


looks like mine, you have to fine tune your retraction settings.

How does one do this?

So you mean to calibrate the PID settings for the extruder, correct.

Or the about the filament retracts before movement?

filament retract by movement is the key

Ok I’ll play around with the settings. So what we learned from the print is my printer is behaving the same as yours did based on the pictures I showed you correct?

the print is the same.- your printer is well calibrated and has no mechanic or electrical problem so far i could say it from here.

3d printing means many hours of testing, trail and error.

Have FUN! :blush:

by the way, PID Setting of the extruder is just for the heating element.- your printer heats and holds the temperature?- no adjustment of pid settings needed.

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Your correct PID for the pulse of the relay for controlling the heater and step for the extruder sometimes my brain and fingers don’t always commute well> LOL :rofl:

I will still look at the signal once I have access to the lab again and an oscilloscope, something is causing the screen flickers which shouldn’t be there in the signal. In the Ninites I worked in semiconductor for Samsung and Cypress controlling lasers and 6 axis robots to blow 0.18 micron fuses on silicon wafers so hopefully I’ll get this figured out once I play around some more.

Thank you very much for helping me out @xchrisd and @NilartPax is more appreciated than you realize.

@xchrisd can you explain you octoprint setup or direct me to a thread were I can learn more?


octoprint is a linux based system, i am running it on a raspberry.- The raspberry is connected via usb to the snapmaker.- I don´t know if it works with Snapmaker 2.0 like with the original (because of the new display).
Its open source an you could monitor and check your printer.
There are several threads on the snapmaker-forum.

Thank you!

Could you be so kind as to tell me how to access the settings from the gcode you provided me or a of list them? I have it pretty much dialed in all but a small issue which is present in the interior in one spot that is a gap traveling vertical that I can’t seem to resolve with flow speed, etc.

You’ve been most helpful in getting me pointed in the right direction, I’ll post pics after this print and If you willing, I’ll post the code and see if there’s anything else you could straighten me out on.

Thank you again!

what slicer do you use?
i would recommend cura (free) or simplify3d (cost)
with other slicers you have more much more options to be set.
for example look at this guides:

I’ll have a look at Simply3d I have Cura loaded up maybe I should give that a try and layoff SMjs for a while not seeming to gain anymore on the print quality. I’ll look over the tutorial you posted first and take a break from the print for a hour or so. :woozy_face:

@xchrisd, @NilartPax,

Thank you both from the bottom of my heart for providing me your knowledge, resources, precious and valuable time in helping me learn how to overcome the issues that were plaguing me. You two are an asset to this form and exemplify the maker community at it’s best!

This is the level of printing I can achieve now, with the understanding I still have a lot to learn on my journey into 3d printing;

The print on top was sliced in Cura while the bottom one was sliced in SMjs. The SMjs print has an expectable seam but I was experiencing a gap that I was unable to resolve that ran vertically through out the part.

At Chris’s urging I switched to Cura and that’s when I was able to understand the importance of what a difference a good slicer makes. At the level it was able to produce shows me there is hope for me yet but may not be able to improve on it much more, due not only my level of experience but the limits of what of what the printer itself can produce.

I am now working with the AIO 3D PRINTER TEST to see if I can fine tune it any further.

Thank you again for talking me off the ledge and from becoming tunnel visioned with believing what I was seeing was all electrically induced and opening my mind to what was actually happening, operator error due to lack of experience and knowledge.

With that said, I will mark this post solution and move forward with my journey in 3D printing a little better prepared thanks to your efforts.

Stay safe in these troubling times as it will be the greatest test of our humanity, however with individuals such as yourselves I fair we will make though this ok and come out for the better as a race on the other side.


Glad you are experimenting! Yes, Snapmaker slicing software is simplified for beginning users. It seems to be some sort of shell of cura. I really wish they had an “advanced mode” that unlocked more of the tools.

Just curious, did you try increasing extrusion?

Your Printer Test seems for me to be too hot printed (Or to less cooled) .- I check my filament print temps with temp tower:
thingiverse is busy now, or my browser is lazy, here is my gcode:
Temp_Tower_0,4Nozzle_190-225GradC_30mm-s.gcode (1.3 MB)

At the snapmaker original i “couldn´t” cool the print area, you should do some experimenting, especially at tiny print-parts.

your testprint “ring” says to me, you are trying to print too much walls.- in simplify3d there is an option which is called “allow gaps to be filled”.- if in cura there is no such option you could try it with more extrusion or less walls, maybe more infill.

Thanks for the flowers! You are welcome!

I just received my printer and have been playing with it.
It prints fairly well in most aspects, but I think I’m seeing something that you had as well.
I printed the same test article that you posted and I think I’m getting the same deformation at around the 50 degree mark.
I’m still playing with it, but were you able to correct this anomaly in yours?