Well some more time and more money spent and I’m nearly able to print a large model.
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Hi @Dojima
Sure, once I’ve got it working I can share the 3D Model of the alu printing plate. I made two designs, one with 12mm thickness and one with 8mm (screenshot above) and structure underneath to get to the 12mm total height of the original part.
I need to talk to my manufacturer first what kind of aluminum fits the best. I haven’t a glue on that neither.
The only concern I have is the weight. According to Fusion the 8mm plate is about 2.5kg and the 12 mm about 3.5kg.
Would this be a problem with the linear modules? Each has to carry about 1.25-1.75kg.
I will report back once I got the first plate for testing.
@AndreasR Mic6/ATP5 cast aluminum tool plate is what you want to use. I have 1/4" Mic6 (~6mm) player mounted on my factory carriage so the 8mm plate should be close to the same weight.
I finally got the machine to print a larger object and stick. Wall quality is terrible but at least it’s slow too. Lol
Next I will tackle trying to remove all/most of the backlash in the linear modules which should reduce my bed rocking up and down in the Y axis.
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What’s the test for backlash? Is there a STL to easily see it?
@Dojima Easy isn´t it to see.
I took this values at a older firmware:
M425 X0.06 Y0.06 Z0.06
I think backlash is deactivated with the last firmware,- but not sure.
Thanks, wow you will need to have good adhesion for this to print well!
@DroneOn so you mounted a tool jig to the original SM frame and then stuck the heated bed on top of the tool jig and glass on top of that?
@Dojima nope. I mounted the tool plate on top of the heated bed which is mounted to the factory bed frame. Basically remove the flex print sheet and place 1/4" cast plate on top of heater.
If you have a dial indicator it is easy to see the Z backlash. It’s around .04mm or so.
You can set up the indicator to see X & Y too.
You essentially go to a position and then start backing off in the other direction .01mm at a time until the dial indicator moves.
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Hello,
Would you have a couple of dot points on how to do manual levelling please.
Let’s assume I have a glass bed and turned off auto calibration in the printer.
-
Do we need to calibrate each of the point manually ??
When clicking manual calibration, how to set up the Z height when it goes from home position to first point? -
I noticed that when the calibration is done, the head goes on the corner of the bed and it is slightly below the level while heating up. Then it will slightly go up and print. That’s kind of odd isn’t?
Thanks
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Hi,
I received my A350 yesterday and I think my proximity sensor doesn’t work (other topic).
Is there a way to skip autocalibration so I can change the autocalibration to manual in the menu?
So I can try manual calibration.
Connect a different tool head.
On the main screen with 3D printer module attached, swipe left, go to settings, 3D printer, and disable auto calibration. You should then be able to perform a manual calibration. After all points are calibrated the head will move to the center, use the touchscreen to adjust the file point and hit save when happy. Do NOT skip this last point.
@DroneOn As described above I can not swipe left in the autocalibration page to go to the settings. I guess I can do nothing with a broken proximity sensor.
Sorry for the inconvenience.
Here is a way to skip the users guide and turn off the auto calibration.
- Use the laser engraving module or CNC carving module and complete the uers guide.
- I think the default firmware is V1.7, and you can do as follows to turn off the users guide of 3D printing module.
I will PM you the method.
As for the probe sensor, you can check if it lights up when the module is close to the print sheet.
@Edwin Turning off autocalibration worked, thank you.
But the sensor is still not working.
I thought I could use the printer for now in Manual calibration but without the sensor working I can not enter any calibration points.
Update: Support is going to send me a new printhead.
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I will try another print bed consistent of an aluminum plate on which I’m going to glue this print bed http://www.mtplus.de/Dauerdruckplatte0.html
A non of these materials is magnetic I’m not sure if auto leveling will still work? I think I read somewhere that in that case it’s not?!