Not so far. My level seems good at this point, except the first layer, but i clean the surface with vodka 
Do you use the first layer percentage setting?
Like 110% or so. That helps push the filament onto the bed.
I had kind a underextrusion, i calibrated, now its better.
Normally i print with 120% 1st layer but i don´t want a edge at the headbands.
my delta is almost 2mm!
I’ve noticed when the horizontal bar goes to the top, it’s not the same distance on the vertical bars. I’ve tried to correct this a few times but it always seem to settle in this same position.
Hi,
I’m running version 1.9.0 and tried the manual calibration. I actually did it twice, however the printer starts always about 2-3mm above the print sheet.
I do it with the paper like described in the manual.
Is there something I miss?
This calibration thing is driving me crazy. Never had so much problems with a printer…
@AndreasR start calibration again, wait till the last point where the head stays in the middle.
NOW level your head with the touchscreen and hit SAVE to finish!
(After that i would suggest you to move all axis home before printing)
Already have tried that. It still has issues to print well over the whole print plate.
Strange is why the manual calibration is not working.
Have you tried this as well?
Its a firmware bug on 1.9.
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Alright, at least it‘s not just me. Hope the 4x4 works manually and snapmaker fixes the bug soon.
Thanks for your help!
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I hope that after shipping all the printers they focus on the firmware because which presents many problems.
At the moment I use my A350 only for small parts …
Yes, it‘s a little bit disappointing. I backed 2 A350. None of them is working very well for bigger prints.
That‘s just sad for over 1 year waiting.
Hopefully the next firmware update improves the calibration.
Have you tried printing on glass? It cost me £6.00 for a pane with polished edges for my A350 and I have successfully printed an object 300x100mm in size (base) with no problems on glass
Hi,
thanks for the advice. I never have tried glass as printing surface. Is there anything I need to look at when buying the glass?
At the moment I redesigned the whole printing plate. I want to replace the frame mounted on the linear moduls with an alu plate (CNC milled). The original frame is just for illustration.
The plan is to mount the heating bed directly on the alu plate which should be 99,9% plain. I also hope that this will keep the plate longer warm. We will see if it works or not
regular picture frame glass has worked wonders for me so far! Its called float glass and I use 3mm with polished edges. Some swear by boroscilicate but at 6-8x the price im not convinced its worth it over normal glass.
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I tried 3/16" glass then 1/4" mirror glass and now I’m using a custom cut plate if Mic6 cast aluminum and finally getting most areas to print. Had to switch to the 3x3 mesh to achieve this because the leveling routing is either not working or it can’t adjust accordingly due to all the backlash in the Z axis.
I have now spent countless days and hundreds of $ trying to find a solution to my warped factory bed. I’m getting close but I don’t see ever using this machine for any 3D printing because it is so slow and noisy.
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Yes I use a 3x3 grid for my glass plate too as I assume the glass is near perfectly flat so there is no need for a larger calibration grid, has worked really well for me so far!
I dont understand how a warped bed underneath could cause a print surface that is inherently flat (like my glass and your cast alu) to no longer be flat. Skewed yes, but the manual calibration of bed levelling seems to have taken care of any off axis skew between my bed on the Y axis and the printhead on the X & Z.
Would you be able to share the files needed for milling and what grade/type of Alu is required. I don’t know much about the properties of materials in terms of what will minimize expansion/shrinking due to heated bed.
My friend owns a precision engineering business, they make aerospace parts. I would like to have the information to hand and see how much it would be to get a custom plate made.
Including @Tone here as I remember you talked about doing something similar?
Have you looked also at replacing the heated bed, I was looking at Core XY builds and wondering about having a bed that provides consistent uniform heating.
I have a piece of glass filled composite material that I plan on turning into a replacement for the aluminum bed. Just haven’t got around to it yet.
One comment, yes a glass plate can be pretty flat, but attaching it to the aluminum frame can still move around due to the heating plate and the play in the actuators.
Was reading this article earlier, pretty interesting.