i have the following problem.
For example, I place an MDF board (35 cm x 32 cm) on the base, enter the data (Work Size), connect the device via wifi and run Camera capture. I transfer the .svg file and position it in Luban and start the cut process.
Now comes the problem: the laser cuts the file, but about 1 cm offset.
What could be the reason for this and how can I fix it?
I use the A350 (current firmware) with the 10 Watt laser and Luban (4.5.0).
Havent tried capture often.
Did you check if your mounting holes are correct, axis and toolhead?
The laser module is mounted correctly.
I can’t explain an offset using camera capture, but frankly I don’t trust camera capture. Here’s how I make sure lasering is centered:
- Affix material to bed, if it has straight edges use the “heatsink” ridges as an edge align (e.g. a square slate coaster) or something. To fix things I use globs of that “museum putty” which is reusable, sticks great to bed and most materials, and removes totally clean. Also it’s white so if laser crosses thru it doesn’t seem to interact much.
- Load file to touchscreen and use automatic thickness determination process. Even on black slate this seems to work really well to set focal height.
- Manually set the part center, do not use camera capture. Let’s say I know my coaster is somewhere in the 92-98mm edge length range, and I know my design is 80mm square. Use the jog controls to get to a corner and travel to the next corner in only X or Y, using 10mm and 1mm and finally tenth mm steps while counting…now you know exact edge length, back off the right distance so 80mm will be ‘centered’. (e.g. I figured out 93mm, so going backward 46.5mm will be center of that edge).
- Now do the same thing along the other axis, until I think I found the center of that.
- Hit the button to ‘set work origin’.
- Hit the “run boundary” button and WATCH to see if you’re satisfied that the outline is staying appropriately central to the workpiece. If not (slate coasters can have rough chipped edges so sometimes skootching over a mm or so in one plane “looks” more centered, even if it technically isn’t) make a small adjustment, reset center, and RETEST boundary again.
- Start the job once satisfied “run boundary” is within your desired range. (It can be a little harder to “see” satisfactory since it runs a ‘square’ boundary always, on a circular coaster, in that case you’re looking for an equal spacing crossover at the four cardinal ‘diameter’ outline locations.)
I’m on an A250 with the 10W btw, in case there’s some difference in behavior between machines.
For some workpieces and outlines using a corner as the file work origin is also easier than the center of the artwork. If I need to MOVE a workpiece to laser something longer than the bed with 2 or more cuts, then I make sure each file uses a (for example) front left corner and either the design includes some sort of fiducial mark I can re-register for the ‘next’ section, or I hand-mark fiducials at the right interval (pencil lines on plywood for example with a very clean straight-edge).
Example, this is a 24x24in door, and I have the A250 (~10in bed). The door frame parts were lasered in at least 2 steps each. I wanted my cabinet for my resin 3D printer to look like some sort of prop from a SF show…(in this pic the ventilation to the window was not yet completed).
Thank you for the detailed instructions. I will try this out and give feedback.
Regardless, the problem does not seem to be related to the camera. I have tried Lightburn and have the same problem there.
And by the way, the cabinet looks very cool.