Is there a guide to replacing the hotend for the S2?

I found a video guide for the original, and someone talking about having done it for the Snapmaker 2, but I’m struggling to figure out how to do it safely

It’s actually quite simple. On the bottom pull the wires to access the connector. disconnect. Open the front cover. loosen the Allan set screw. pull out the hot end. Reverse the procedure to install.

Ohhhhh… I’m only now noticing that there’s a screw in that deep hole. Thanks.

What size is this hex/screw? can’t find anything to fit it

In the handle of the supplied screwdriver there are 3 additional bits.

The video instruction is hidden in some promo materials:

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But none of them fit, just ordered some smaller allen keys

View this video.

As for the M4 x 4mm Alloy Steel Hex Socket Set, you can search if in Amazon or other channels.

Best regards
Edwin

Peering into the hole it looks like a very small (0.7?) hex, but this is misleading. When I tried an M4 hex I just wasn’t turning hard enough! tried it again today and the screw loosened and the rest was easy enough.

thanks!

I’m only now noticing that there’s a screw in that deep hole.

Heh, I had the same reaction when taking apart the 3D print head after a blob encased it like the end of Akira. “Surely there’s nothing user-serviceable in there, or it would be more accessible!”.

Which means I wiggled the destroyed hot end out with smooth-jaw pliers before I saw the gouge caused by the setscrew. The screw got a little chewed up but I filed it back to the original shape.

Is there a way to know when to replace the hot end? The replacement seems pretty easy but I didn’t know if there would be a reason to replace it or not.

3 main times:

  1. It’s ruined by some catastrophic failure requiring replacement (either thermistor died or some other mechanical failure)
  2. It’s somehow lasted an entire lifetime and the orifice is worn out resulting in lesser print quality
  3. It’s replaced preemptively, usually for a hardened nozzle, for printing abrasive filaments.

For both 2 and 3 you don’t have to replace the entire hot end, just the nozzle can be replaced with any MK8 compatible nozzle.

I’m not sure when you’d have to replace for other reasons, but I swap it out when it gets jammed and I need to clean the existing one.

// Don’t use cheap particle-fill PLA. I’m still working on a 500g roll of marble filament that looks amazing but I’ve gotten jammed like three times.

How do you clean out your jammed nozzle, is there a video for that somewhere? Sorry for all the questions, but I am thinking that I need to do some clean up of my hotend/ nozzle and was looking for some pointers

When I replace the hot end, should I push the new hot end up to the “hilt”? This seems to leave very little clearance between the cooling shroud and the surrounding print. Any advice on how far out I can leave the hot end protruding so the cooling vent doesn’t bump the print?

Yes, make sure it’s all the way up. If it slips even a little the distance from your calibration sensor won’t be correct and you’ll put your nozzle through the PEI sheet.

Make sure you calibrate after you replace it.

Well, not exactly. The hot end height is adjustable and should be ~ 1mm higher than the nozzle.

I’ve read in a few non-Snapmaker places that there should be an air gap between the nozzle and the heat break, and have also seen a post or two here asking for guidance from the support crew on what is the optimal distance. Only crickets in response, of course - so basically set the hot end as you see fit (ram it all the way home or leave a half mm) and then adjust to make sure you don’t ram the nozzle into the bed. You gotta adjust whenever you change the nozzle, if you don’t want to crash into the bed, so it’s not really an extra step.

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Lol. No. I’m right. You put the hot end to the top.

Should be nozzle all the way up. Then check and adjust the sensor if needed.
There should still be plenty of clearance for the cooling vent.
-S

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