Is there a guide to replacing the hotend for the S2?

I’ve advanced the nozzle 0.5 mm down from hard up against the stop. Autoleveling still works (nozzle doesn’t touch down on the bed) and now there’s extra clearance so the shroud doesn’t hit in cases where there’s a bit of curl.

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I’d like to know how you figured out it’s a .5mm :joy:

You could adjust your sensor if that’s your goal.

My goal is to have a greater distance between the XY plane of the nozzle tip, and the XY plane of the extruder mechanism.

Adjusting the bed level sensor down won’t do that though. It’ll just mean I have to move the head further down when I set the Z offset. Z offset is set manually after auto bed levelling, I’m sure as you know.
I can report that the printer works fine with the nozzle protruding a fraction.

@hardy did you slightly loosen the nozzle? Or did you bring it down using the grub screw? .5mm is incredibly difficult to measure, and the hotend is supposed to be mounted all the way in. You’ll actually potentially run into cooling issues if the nozzle is going past the vent…

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Seemed pretty easy with a vernier caliber. But then again, TLAR is just as effective. There’s no need for it to be exactly 0.5.

Loosening the nozzle is exceedingly unwise as you will just get filament flowing down the threads. Yes. Grub screw.

That’s what I thought. But isn’t that leaving a gap between the heatbreak and the heat block?

There must be a gap but it doesn’t seem to hurt things. Just did 20 hours of ABS printing with no ill effects

@hardy I wonder if it would increase, decrease, or not even affect the chances for heat creep. Interesting. Keep us updated on happenings, I’m actually pretty interested in any positive or negative effects, if there possibly would be any at all.

The body of the hot end doesn’t sit flush to any part of the head. There is a large gap above it and less around it. When you push it in it stops on the ring/flange on the heat break. And the part that gets hot is the block that’s covered by the silicone sleeve. So it won’t make any difference on heat creep or heat retention whether you mount it flush or not.

I’m not sure if they’ve changed this on the newly designed print head, but on mine there’s 2-2.5mm difference between the nozzle and the fan duct. The sensor is the recommended 1mm difference. If you’re having enough warping that the shroud is hitting your print, than there’s either something wrong with your printhead or your settings. Maybe you need to add z-hop?

Z offset isn’t just being set at the final point - it’s being set during the entire calibration process across the bed. When it’s sensing it’s measuring the relative height of the bed at each point. It doesn’t know how far it actually is from the bed. When you do the final step it’s telling the SM what the actual difference is between the tip of the nozzle and what it’s measuring using the sensor at each point. May be semantics but that’s why the sensor doesn’t need to be set to an exact height and why you do the last step.

-S

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@sdj544 welp, that would explain why there wasn’t any ill effects dropping it down, I thought it sat against the heat block but apparently not. I still think it should be all the way in though. If the print head is hitting the print because of warping, that’s an issue that an enclosure would help with, but settings should definitely be checked. Dropping the hotend down isn’t fixing anything.

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